Lisbon: Hills, Trams and Atlantic Light

Lisbon was another long‑awaited destination, one that had sat on our bucket list for years. When I won a prize with Lisbon Tourism, including two nights’ bed and breakfast, return flights with TAP Air Portugal and 48‑hour Lisbon passes for two, it felt like the perfect excuse to finally go. We chose the August bank holiday weekend for a short but action‑packed escape.

The flight from London Heathrow to Lisbon took just over two hours and was very busy. On arrival, the formalities were straightforward, and we headed to the tourist information desk to collect our Lisbon passes. These passes, available for 24, 48 or 72 hours, offer excellent value, including trams, buses, trains, museum entries and discounts on tours.

We took the metro into the city and quickly discovered one of Lisbon’s defining features: hills. Reaching our hotel involved a fair bit of climbing with our suitcases, but the reward was worth it. We stayed at the Olissippo Castelo Hotel for two nights, in a spacious room with lovely views over the city and the sound of church bells drifting through during the day. Our room was ready long before the usual check‑in time, which was very welcome after an early start.

With limited time, we dropped our bags and went straight out. First on the list was Belém, reached by bus number 15. The journey took around 45 minutes, past some wonderful sights along the river. Belém is home to the famous monastery and, of course, the original pastéis de Belém. We discovered that entry to the monastery was included on our Lisbon passes, and after exploring, we joined the inevitable queue at the historic bakery to sample the egg custard tarts. They were more than worth the wait.

Belém itself is a charming area, with shops, restaurants, a marina and a nearby train station, making it an easy day out from central Lisbon. On the way back we stopped at Praça do Comércio, a grand riverside square with elegant arcades, restaurants and views of the river and the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge, which looks strikingly like San Francisco’s Golden Gate.

The following day started with a generous buffet breakfast at the hotel, served until 11.00, with both hot and continental options. Then it was time to tackle one of Lisbon’s icons: tram 28. The queue was long and the wait well over an hour, but the route did not disappoint. The tram clattered through historic neighbourhoods, around tight bends and up and down steep, narrow streets, offering a wonderful snapshot of the city.

Later, we used our passes to take the coastal train to Cascais, a pretty seaside town around 40 minutes from Lisbon. The route hugs the shoreline with lovely sea views, and the town itself has sandy beaches, a marina, shops and plenty of restaurants. We enjoyed an excellent and reasonably priced Indian lunch and were lucky enough to witness a religious procession through the streets, with locals carrying statues of Jesus and Mary. It felt like a very authentic glimpse of local life.

Back in Lisbon, we wandered along the riverfront before heading to the Elevador de Santa Justa, a neo‑Gothic lift connecting two of the city’s central districts. Designed by Mesnier du Ponsard, its ornate ironwork and vintage wooden cabins make it feel like a journey back in time. Even early evening there were queues, and the main viewing platform was closed, but we still enjoyed wonderful views over the city from the top. Access with the Lisbon pass made it even better value.

Lisbon is a city of viewpoints, tiled facades and tram tracks, with a rich history and an excellent public transport system. It is easy to explore on foot (if you do not mind hills) and by tram, metro or train. Two days gave us a taste, but we both agreed that four days would be ideal to really do the city justice.