New York at Christmas: ticking off bucket list dreams (almost)

Daryl Glean on 28 Nov 2023

New York City has always been high on our festive bucket list. My wife and I have long dreamt of seeing the famous Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade in person, so when we booked our trip in April, that was the plan: Thanksgiving in New York, then roll straight into the city’s magical Christmas season. As it turned out, the Thanksgiving date changed after we booked, which meant we arrived just after the parade. A little disappointing at first, but all was certainly not lost. Instead, we were in the city in time for the Rockefeller Christmas tree lighting, which turned out to be a truly unforgettable experience.

new york Flying with United Airlines: Economy Plus & lounge time

We flew with United Airlines from London Heathrow Terminal 2 to Newark. Our flight time was around 8 hours and the plane was fully booked.

We were delighted to be upgraded to Economy Plus, which gave us extra legroom and a noticeably more comfortable journey. To make things even better, my lovely account manager at United, Lesley, arranged complimentary United Club lounge passes for both of us at Heathrow.

The United Club lounge really impressed us. It offered a choice of hot and cold breakfast items, along with a wide selection of drinks including tea, coffee, hot chocolate and speciality coffees. It was a calm, peaceful space to relax before boarding and felt like the perfect start to the trip. This is also available for customers to purchase as a one‑time pass on the United app for 59 US dollars per person (subject to availability), which I think represents good value if you want to make your airport time more enjoyable.

Arriving in New York: Newark to Manhattan

On arrival at Newark Airport, immigration was busy but still felt smoother than our previous experiences at JFK, where queues can be much longer.

Once we had cleared immigration, we bought tickets that included the AirTrain from the airport to the airport rail station, then onward travel to New York Penn Station, costing 15.70 US dollars per person (subject to change at any time). The train service runs regularly and the journey into the city took around 30–40 minutes.

From Penn Station we took the subway to our hotel, using the 1, 2 or 3 line to 72nd Street, which was very straightforward once we got our bearings.

Our base: Beacon Hotel, Upper West Side

We stayed at the Beacon Hotel on the Upper West Side for 4 nights from 28 November, in a King Deluxe room on a room-only basis.

The hotel was a great choice:

A lovely, welcoming property in a fantastic location
Close to shops, restaurants and with a handy supermarket right across the road
Our room had a kitchenette and bathroom, plus a wonderful view over the city
We even had some gifts awaiting us in the room on arrival, which was a really thoughtful touch

Nearby attractions include Lincoln Center, the American Museum of Natural History, the Rose Center for Earth and Space and Central Park, all easily reachable on foot or by a short subway ride.

Best of all, the Beacon has no resort fee, which is a real bonus in New York.

Christmas in New York: lights, views and festive windows

Although we missed the Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade, New York more than made up for it with its incredible Christmas atmosphere. Everywhere we went we were surrounded by lights, decorations and festive window displays, especially along Fifth Avenue.

Over our 4-night stay we managed to pack in an impressive amount:

Rockefeller Center & Top of the Rock

On 29 November we visited Top of the Rock, using fast passes which made entry smooth and easy.
Top of the Rock has three levels of indoor and outdoor observation decks, with terraces facing east, west, north and south. The panoramic views over Manhattan are spectacular, and it really does feel like the ultimate observation deck at the top of 30 Rockefeller Plaza’s 70 floors.
We timed our visit for sunset and were rewarded with some amazing views as the city lights came on.
We also saw the Rockefeller Christmas tree and ice skating rink, and it was wonderful to watch everyone enjoying the festive atmosphere.

Rockefeller Tree Lighting

One of the biggest highlights of the trip was seeing the Rockefeller tree lighting. It felt incredibly special to be there in person, surrounded by the buzz of the crowd and the sparkle of the lights. It was a fantastic consolation for missing the Thanksgiving Parade and definitely one for the memory bank.

Macy’s on 34th Street

We made a pilgrimage to Macy’s on 34th Street, the Great American Department Store established in 1858. With over a million square feet of space and 10 floors of brands and services, it is a true New York icon.

The Broadway-side windows often feature six different scenes with varying themes, and at Christmas the displays are especially magical.
I have been to New York a few times, but I had never previously explored every floor in Macy’s. This time we did, and it was quite an experience to see the festive windows and the decorations throughout the store.

Empire State Building

We also visited the Empire State Building, which was fascinating from both a historical and architectural perspective.

The building has 102 floors and 73 lifts, and learning about how it was built was really interesting.
The views over Manhattan from the observation decks are classic New York and should be on everyone’s first‑time list.

The Edge

Another highlight was visiting Edge, the highest outdoor sky deck in the Western Hemisphere, located at 30 Hudson Yards.

The design is unique: the deck is suspended in mid-air, giving you the feeling of floating above the city with 360‑degree views.
There is a glass floor where you can look straight down 100 storeys, and angled glass walls so you can lean out over the city.
For the truly brave, there is City Climb, a skyscraper adventure that lets you scale the outside of the building over 1,200 feet above the ground and lean out from the highest outdoor platform in New York City.
I will happily admit that neither of us was quite brave enough to try City Climb, but just being out on the deck itself was exciting enough!

Best of New York cruise

We also did a Circle Line “Best of New York” cruise, lasting around 2 hours 30 minutes. This runs a couple of times a day in winter and really surprised me in the best possible way.

The cruise covers:

All three New York City rivers
Around 20 bridges
Over 130 landmarks, including:

The Manhattan skyline
Little Island
Hudson Yards
One World Trade Center
Brooklyn Bridge and downtown Brooklyn
Yankee Stadium
George Washington Bridge
And of course, close‑up views of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island

I was genuinely amazed by how much green space and variety there is in and around the city. Seeing New York from the water gives a completely different perspective.

Christmas windows & Fifth Avenue magic

New York really did feel like Christmas during our visit:

The streets and shops were beautifully decorated, with an incredible energy in the air.
We were blown away by the Christian Dior and Saks light and music show, which plays outside the store every 5–10 minutes and had crowds stopping in their tracks.
We stopped by the famous FAO Schwarz, now located near Rockefeller Center. It is an iconic toy store with a huge range of unique toys and gifts.
My wife treated herself to the piano from the film “Big” as a souvenir, which felt like a lovely full‑circle movie moment. It is very easy to get carried away in there, especially if you are shopping for children.

Getting around: MetroCards, walking & a local favourite

We found getting around New York very easy:

We walked a lot, which is always one of the best ways to experience the city.
We also bought a 7‑day MetroCard for 34 US dollars per person (subject to change at any time), which gives unlimited travel on the subway and local buses. If you are staying more than 5 days, I would definitely recommend this as the best value compared with pay‑per‑ride options.

Close to the Beacon Hotel we discovered Gray Place, 2090 Broadway (72nd Street), a great little spot for good value food and drinks.

Some of their offers included:

Hot dog specials:

1 frank & medium tropical drink: 4.50 US dollars including tax
2 franks & medium tropical drink: 6.95 US dollars including tax
3 franks & large tropical drink: 9.95 US dollars including tax

Breakfast specials:

Coffee & breakfast sandwich with egg, cheese and ham, bacon or sausage: 3.00 US dollars
Coffee & breakfast sandwich with egg, cheese and a frank: 3.95 US dollars

Ideal for a quick, budget‑friendly bite in an otherwise expensive city.

Why New York at Christmas is so special

New York really is a city that never sleeps. It felt like a busier, faster‑paced version of London, especially at this time of year.

In just four nights we managed to:

Visit Top of the Rock, Edge and the Empire State Building
See the Rockefeller tree lighting and rink
Explore Macy’s and the festive windows on 34th Street and Fifth Avenue
Take the Best of New York cruise
Wander Central Park and the Upper West Side
Enjoy the incredible Christmas lights and window displays across the city

We did not manage to fit in a Broadway show this time, and still have important sights on our list such as the 9/11 Memorial & Museum, so we have every intention of returning. You really do need a minimum of four nights in New York, and ideally more, as there is simply so much to see and do.

Tips for visiting New York

Based on our experience, here are some personal tips:

Wear comfortable shoes for all the walking.
Carry some small dollar bills for tipping.
Consider a New York City Pass or similar to cover key attractions like the Empire State Building, Top of the Rock and Edge.
Experience the New York subway and get a 7‑day MetroCard if you will be using public transport a lot.
Take a Circle Line cruise to see the city from the water.
Visit Grand Central Terminal for its stunning architecture.
Spend time in Central Park and browse Fifth Avenue, popping into FAO Schwarz.
Take the Staten Island Ferry (free) or a Statue of Liberty cruise for harbour views.
Watch a Broadway show if you can.
Visit Macy’s, Times Square and save time for the 9/11 Memorial & Museum (be prepared, it is very moving).