27 April 2017

With the winter seeming to take an age to melt into spring this year I was very much looking forward to some welcome warm weather and my educational trip to Paphos in South Western Cyprus was just what I needed. It's very well served with regular low cost flights departing from across the UK and takes around 4 hrs to get to Paphos airport. Our home for the week, The Asimini Suites hotel, is only 15 minutes from the airport and we had a transfer in a Mercedes waiting for us outside when we arrived. It's a beautiful hotel with a wonderfully calm and cathartic atmosphere and truly excellent service. For example, as we didn't land until midnight we were taken straight up to our room where a platter of cold cuts, fruit and a bottle of wine were waiting for us. It was a lovely way to arrive and made us feel instantly at home. The hotel only has suites and is very much 5*. Our suite was stunning and the view out over the pool made us very excited about what the next 7 days had in store. Cyprus quite literally has something for everyone. That might well be a well-trodden and slightly trite phrase but rarely is it more deserved than with Cyprus. History-lovers will be in paradise with remains, some very well preserved, of the several civilisations to have variously called this island their home, scattered across the whole country. In Paphos town it seems they can't repair a pavement without uncovering an ancient tomb, the archeological park is like walking back in time and the world famous murals at the House of Dionysus are just breathtaking. A short drive into the mountains will have you driving through picturesque stone villages and feels like stepping back in time. The cuisine retains a very traditional flavour and it feels very different from the coastal areas. On your way back down you will see vineyards everywhere you look. The majority remain family owned small holdings so are all manually harvested and provide fantastic variety for the numerous wineries in the area. There are several wine routes you can follow and one of our trips took in Fikardos winery. It is still family owned and after a tour by the son we were treated to a tasting with the father and son together. Who could resist buying a few bottles after that? Most people gave in and there was a lot of pleasant glass clinking on the 10 minute drive back into Paphos. Having dived around the world I was pleased to learn that the diving in Paphos is excellent with some world famous wrecks, great artificial reefs and crystal clear waters. We didn't have time to dive on this trip but there are several reputable and PADI certified dive shops in the town. No reflection of time on Paphos would be complete without mentioning the food. I have truly fallen in love with Greek Cypriot fare. During the week we had some of the freshest tuna and swordfish I've had anywhere in the world and excellent steak dinners. The mezes are really large and filling but a great way to sample as many of the dishes as you can. We found Hondros and Fetta's Taverna really stood out for us. I haven't even mentioned the stunning 10th century churches, visits to traditional hand made sweet shops, monasteries dug into caves in the cliff, mountain trekking, water sports, golf courses, handmade pottery factories and castles that have housed the knights templar. Cyprus is an island that would be absolutely impossible to be bored on. Families are also brilliantly catered for; the Alexander The Great hotel is a plush, family friendly 4* property just a stone's throw from Paphos new town. A more boutique option would be the Annabelle Hotel which is next door to its sister hotel the Almyra again a short walk into the harbour area of Paphos. All along the coastal path there are accommodation options to suit every budget, taste and interest. Perhaps the biggest recommendation I can give Cyprus is that we are planning on visiting again very soon and for us that's really saying something as we like to try to find new places but Cyprus somehow feels unfinished and I wouldn't be surprised if it takes quite a few more trips for us to drink our fill from this Mediterranean gem!

28 October 2014

Turkey had, clearly unfairly, always been associated in my mind with my younger drunken holidays and perhaps staggering home with a kebab in Bodrum or Marmaris and I’d not considered holidaying there again until recently! Beautiful Kalkan, however, simply couldn’t be further from that stereotype and it fully deserves its billing as a jewel on Turkey’s stunning south western Mediterranean coastline. After a pleasant 4 hour flight we landed into a calm, modern and well organised airport and were immediately greeted by our private transfer with refreshingly cold towels and water. A stunning 1.5 hour drive through the mountains saw the lovely traditional fishing town of Kalkan emerge at the heart of a sheltered bay. Arriving at our home for the week, The Asfiya Hotel, with its traditional stone frontage and large cool foyer, we knew we were in for exactly the kind of holiday we were looking for. Centred on a lovely pool with restaurant tables suspended on a bridge over the middle of the water, it is compact but well serviced with its own spa and great lunch menu. As I was staying for my birthday the wonderfully friendly and helpful staff made it a really special day; champagne sat above the pool gazing up at the impressive Lycian mountains preceded by the incredible experience of a Turkish bath. I was pleasantly surprised at how relaxing and therapeutic the Turkish bath was and we felt wonderfully revived afterwards! The first few days were spent recharging our batteries, enjoying the wonderfully cathartic atmosphere around the pool on the comfortable sun loungers and taking in some excellent meals. In the old town nearly every building has a rooftop restaurant offering wonderful views in the day and an unforgettable atmosphere at night. We had freshly baked bread, enjoyed the most excellent lamb and steak and also discovered some surprisingly good Turkish wines which were of excellent quality. The explorer in me though soon got itchy feet though and after spending a day sailing around the nearby coastline whilst my husband scuba dived to see a nearby wreck (in crystal clear waters) we decided to head out on a trip. Lynn at the hotel arranged a wonderful boat trip out to Kekova and the famous sunken city. Formerly a major trading centre it was ruined by earthquakes in the 2nd century and you can now float over the top of sunken foundations and past ruined store houses and old Roman baths. We had an excellent & informative guide, a very tasty BBQ lunch on the boat, a small and friendly tour group and saw no less than 6 sea turtles. Swimming with these gentle giants and then watching in awe as another of the huge reptiles bobbed obligingly close to our boat was truly one of the stand out memories from a great holiday! As for the other days, well they were spent enjoying the Yali beach club, free for Asfiya hotel guests, taking in the entertainment and fine dining of Hotel Likya’s Turkish night and relaxing into a state of complete contentment. It was from start to finish one of the most relaxing and enjoyable holidays I can remember and even though it was only a week, I came back very refreshed. For those wanting a bit more freedom, there are several self-catering options available including large luxury villas. There are also plenty more places in the surrounding mountains to visit (e.g. the Saklikent gorge which we saved for next time!) which makes hiring a car a great way to explore. Drop me a line if you’d like to hear more about what this part of Turkey has to offer and I’d love to share some of my memories to give you some ideas for that relaxing week in the Med!

26 October 2012

I have always thought Gran Canaria was just a place to grab a quick week in the sun during our winter season, but on a recent trip there, I realised I was wrong! The four hour flight from the UK went very quickly and, on arrival, our private transfer took us straight to the Seaside Hotel Palm Beach in Maspalomas. There was a very warm welcome at the hotel and we had dinner by the pool. The food was beautiful and the service was excellent. Our rooms were very spacious, clean & bright and the balcony overlooked the pool. We took a trip to the Bandama Crater, which is a volcanic crater in the centre of the island. The drive here was very scenic and I would recommend hiring a car so you can stop off and take in the magnificent views. In the afternoon we visited the old quarter of the Capital Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. It has a lot of cultural heritage which can be found in the oldest quarter of the town called Vegueta where we stopped for lunch in a little family run tapas restaurant. While on our trip, we also visited several other hotels. The Sheraton Salobre is a golfer’s paradise, and has fantastic spa facilities. Being remote I would recommend hiring a car to get around. The Cordial Mogan Playa and Hotel Gloria Amadores are great for families. The Gloria Palace Royal has beautiful views over Amadores Beach which is accessible by lift. Families and couples alike will enjoy this hotel. In the mountains we visited Hotel Parador Cruz De Tejeda and had a fantastic lunch. The views from this hotel were just breath-taking and the spa is the place to unwind after a day’s walking or cycling. My favourite hotel was the Lopesan Baobab Resort which is magnificent with its warm colours and African theme throughout. The sub-tropical gardens are a real wow factor. If you’re looking for something smaller and a bit more personal, I would recommend the Grand Hotel which is very glamorous and best suited to couples. It has a great beachfront location in Maspalomas. We visited Puerto Mogan which is also known as Little Venice, and is this is the prettiest part of the island. It’s a very calming place with water running under the arches and joining with the sea in the Marina. There are hotels and luxury apartments overlooking the golden sands imported from the Sahara. Gran Canaria is a paradise for walking and cycling. We drove out to the areas of Fataga, San Bartolome and Tejeda, in the heart of the island. The roads are fantastic and car hire is highly recommended. We stopped a few times for some amazing views and to take in the different terrain. You can stay at the Parador Cruz de Tejeda and do some amazing cycling and walking routes. I really enjoyed my time in Gran Canaria and I would highly recommend it for both activity and beach holidays. My ideal trip would be a couple of days in Las Palmas soaking up the history and eating in the little tapas restaurants, then into the mountains to do some walking and evening relaxation in the spa. It’s also perfect for those looking for a beach getaway! There is something for everyone in Gran Canaria and it’s only 4 hours way.