Mountains, Māori Stories & Miles of Empty Road: My New Zealand Road Trip

Life on the Open Road: Hiking New Zealand’s North & South Islands by Campervan

New Zealand feels like it was designed for people who love the outdoors: mountains that plunge into the sea, mossy forests, turquoise lakes and walking tracks everywhere you turn. It is also one of the best set‑up countries in the world for camping, with excellent sites, facilities and clear guidance for travellers in vans.

What struck me most was how untouched it feels and how strong the island and Māori culture is. Outside the main towns you can drive for miles without seeing another car, another person or a single big development, just empty roads, huge skies and wild scenery on all sides.

I rented a campervan and explored both the North and South Islands, building my days around hikes, simple campsites, safe hot springs and nights in back‑country huts.

Van life on two wild islands

Van life quickly fell into a rhythm:

• Slide open the door to mountain, lake or ocean views
• Quick camp breakfast and coffee in the fresh air
• Choose the next walk, hot pool or hut rather than just the next town

There is a wide choice of well‑organised campsites, from basic conservation sites run by the Department of Conservation (“DOC”) to holiday parks with kitchens and hot showers. The conservation sites were my favourites: quiet, not built up and right in the heart of nature. At night it was just wind, water and, on clear evenings, ridiculous stars.

North Island: geothermal heart, coasts and Māori stories

The North Island is shaped by its geothermal energy and strong Māori identity.

In the central plateau, trails cross old lava fields and steaming vents, with boards explaining the geology and why you must stay on the paths. Guided tours combine short walks with visits to geothermal parks and safe hot springs, so you can soak in warm mineral water at the end of the day. Many pools and vents are far too hot or unstable, so it is really important not to just jump into any inviting bit of water; I always stuck to signed or guided spots.

Away from the steam, coastal and bush tracks wind above empty beaches and through native forest full of birdsong. It feels very “island”: small bays, headlands and little coastal towns that are still laid‑back and local. Along the way you see and hear te reo Māori, read legends linked to mountains and lakes, and feel how closely culture and landscape are connected.

South Island: big mountains and empty roads

The ferry to the South Island feels like starting a new chapter: everything is taller, wilder and even less built up.

Glacier‑fed lakes, sharp peaks and long, empty roads set the scene. I spent days on well‑marked tracks to viewpoints, alpine basins and river valleys, often with hardly anyone else around. I still visited the famous alpine lakes, mountain towns and fiords, but the best moments came a little beyond the car parks, where the crowds thin and it is just you and the landscape.

In the south and on the west coast, rainforest, cliffs and waterfalls take over. Some of the most impressive views came from short signed walks right off the highway, yet whole drives passed without me seeing another vehicle. It really does feel like two long, wild islands at the edge of the world.

Huts, hot pools and small moments

As a keen walker, the hut network was a dream: simple bunkhouses with long tables, basic cooking gear and the sound of rivers outside. Evenings were for swapping stories with other hikers and watching the light fade with no light pollution.

What I remember most, though, are the small things:

• Cooking a simple dinner after a long hike and eating it outside with tired legs and a happy heart
• Hanging damp socks in the van overnight, ready for another day on the trail
• Slipping into a safe, signposted hot pool in the evening as muscles instantly relaxed
• Hearing Māori place names and greetings every day and feeling that strong island culture all around
• Driving long stretches of road with nothing but hills, sky and sheep for company

Helping you plan your own New Zealand road‑trip

Because I have driven both islands, stayed in huts, walked as much as possible and dipped into the geothermal and cultural side of the North Island, I can help you plan a trip that goes beyond just “seeing the sights”.

Whether you would like to:

• Hire a campervan and focus on day walks with the odd hut night,
• Mix boutique lodges, classic hikes, hot springs and cultural experiences,
• Or link the famous highlights with some quieter, emptier trails,

I can help piece together an itinerary that fits your walking level, time frame and comfort.

If waking up in a campervan, driving empty island roads, hiking to a viewpoint and ending the day in a hot spring sounds like your kind of holiday, get in touch and I will help turn that North‑and‑South‑Island dream into a trip that feels truly your own.