Lake Louise

Riding the Rails and Rockies: My Journey Through Western Canada

Paul Sharp on 01 Oct 2023

If you have ever dreamt of snow-dusted peaks, turquoise lakes and one of the world’s great train journeys, Western Canada is the place that turns those dreams into reality. I went on a brilliant educational trip taking in Calgary, Banff, the legendary Rocky Mountaineer, Vancouver and Whistler, and I am more excited than ever to help clients experience this part of the world for themselves. Here is a look at what I got up to and the kind of holiday I can now create with even more first-hand insight.

Day 1: Touchdown in Calgary and a Taste of the City

We flew direct with Air Canada from Heathrow into Calgary which is a smooth and comfortable way to arrive in the Canadian Rockies region.

Calgary works beautifully as a year-round city break and as a gateway for adventures into the Rockies. It has a real “big city meets mountain basecamp” feel: a walkable downtown, characterful neighbourhoods, and those enticing peaks always on the horizon.

I checked in to the historic Fairmont Palliser, a Calgary institution with over a century of stories behind its doors. Think classic elegance, polished service and a central location that puts you within easy reach of shops, restaurants, arts venues and the iconic Calgary Tower. Via the indoor skywalks you can stroll to the convention centre, Arts Commons, the Glenbow Museum and more without stepping outside, which is especially handy in the colder months.

To get my bearings I joined a guided walking tour of downtown. This is a fantastic way for visitors to learn about Calgary’s street art, architecture and local stories, while actually walking the same streets and riverside pathways the locals use every day. The guides brought the city to life with personal insights, hidden corners and little anecdotes that you would never pick up on your own.

No first evening in Calgary is complete without heading up the Calgary Tower. Opened in 1968, this landmark offers an incredible 360-degree panorama over the city and out to the Rocky Mountains. The glass-floor section on the observation deck is a fun little test of nerve, letting you “step out” over the streets below.

We rounded off the day with dinner at Annabelle’s Kitchen, a modern Italian neighbourhood restaurant. It has a relaxed, friendly atmosphere and a menu of comforting favourites: handmade pasta, antipasti and pizza, all paired with good wines and local craft beers. It is exactly the sort of place I would recommend to clients for a warm, easy first night in the city.


Day 2: Stepping Back in Time and Tuning In to Canada’s Music Story

Breakfast came with a generous helping of history at Heritage Park Historical Village, one of Calgary’s signature attractions. This is Canada’s largest living history site and it really does feel like stepping back into early Western Canada. Depending on the season, you can explore different historic eras, meet costumed interpreters, ride a steam train, wander through an old-fashioned prairie town, or board Calgary’s only paddle wheeler boat.

It is ideal for families but just as fascinating for adults, with special experiences ranging from Field to Fork culinary tours and Indigenous programmes to themed dining on a historic railcar. There is always something new being added or refreshed, so it is somewhere you can happily include in repeat itineraries too.

From history to hits: next was Studio Bell, home of the National Music Centre. Spread across five floors, this innovative museum is designed to feel as dynamic as a music festival. Alongside interactive exhibits, sound booths and instruments you can actually play, there are some extraordinary pieces of music history on display. Highlights include:

  • The Rolling Stones’ mobile recording studio, used by Deep Purple, Bob Marley and Led Zeppelin
  • Elton John’s song writing piano from his early albums
  • The guitar behind the classic “American Woman”
  • Performance costumes from artists such as k.d. lang, Deadmau5 and Shania Twain
  • One of the world’s largest modular synthesizers, famously used by Stevie Wonder

It is a must for music lovers and offers a very different cultural angle to balance all the outdoor adventure that Western Canada is known for.

Later we transferred by Brewster Express from Calgary to Banff, an easy and comfortable journey that lets you simply sit back and watch the prairies give way to the Rockies. On arrival I checked in at Banff Caribou Lodge, a cosy alpine-style base that puts you close to town while still feeling very much in the mountains.

Before the day was over, there was time for the Banff Gondola. Gliding up to the summit of Sulphur Mountain rewards you with sweeping views over the surrounding peaks and valleys. It is one of those quintessential Rocky Mountain experiences that works beautifully in all seasons.


Banff National Park Area

Day 3: Lakes, Wildlife and Scenic Picnic Spots

Banff National Park is every bit as spectacular as the postcards suggest. To really make the most of your time here I highly recommend a guided day exploring the park, which is exactly what I experienced with Radventures.

We began with a drive out to the famous Lake Louise, with plenty of time to follow the lakeside trails and soak up those glacier-fed turquoise waters framed by dramatic peaks. Seeing it in person gives you a much better understanding of the best vantage points, quieter corners and how it feels at different times of day, all of which helps when planning for clients.

Lunch was a relaxed picnic along the Bow Valley Parkway, a wonderfully scenic route that runs between Lake Louise and Banff. It is known for its viewpoints and wildlife sightings, so even the drive itself feels like part of the experience.

In the afternoon we continued with a Banff Highlights & Wildlife tour, showcasing some of the area’s best viewpoints and, with a bit of luck, its resident animals. Travelling with a knowledgeable guide means you learn about local ecology, history and conservation, and you are exploring in a way that respects the wildlife and landscape.


Days 4 & 5: Rocky Mountaineer to Vancouver

Next came one of the absolute stars of the trip: two days on board the Rocky Mountaineer from Banff to Vancouver via Kamloops, travelling in GoldLeaf Service.

This is rail travel at its most indulgent. GoldLeaf gives you a bi-level glass-domed coach with panoramic views from your seat and an elegant dining room downstairs where you are served multi-course meals inspired by the regions you are travelling through. Think locally sourced ingredients, attentive service and endless top-ups of drinks, all while the scenery rolls by outside.

Over two days you trace river canyons, climb mountain passes and watch the landscape shift from rugged Rockies to lush coastal forests. Because the train only travels during the day, you do not miss a moment of the scenery and instead overnight in a hotel in Kamloops before continuing to Vancouver.

On arrival in Vancouver, I checked in to the Sheraton Wall Centre for an overnight stay, a conveniently located base for exploring the city.


Vancouver Area British Columbia

Day 6: Urban Icons and Coastal Views

Vancouver is a city where mountains, ocean and modern glass towers all converge, and it is easy to see why it regularly ranks among the world’s most liveable cities.

My sightseeing day here took in some of the classic highlights:

  • Gastown: cobbled streets, heritage brick buildings, independent boutiques and that famous steam clock. Ideal for a leisurely wander, coffee stops and people watching.
  • Stanley Park: a huge green peninsula wrapped by seawall paths and beaches, with views across the harbour and Lions Gate Bridge. Whether by bike, on foot or on a coach tour, it is a must-see.
  • Capilano Suspension Bridge: a thrilling walkway high above the forested canyon floor, along with treetop walkways and viewpoints that showcase British Columbia’s rainforest scenery.
  • FlyOver Canada: an immersive flying experience that “soars” you over some of Canada’s most iconic landscapes, complete with motion seats, special effects and a huge domed screen.

Together they give a really rounded first impression of Vancouver, from historic quarters and parkland to modern attractions.


Whistler British Columbia

Day 7: Alpine Thrills in Whistler

From Vancouver it was time to head up the stunning Sea-to-Sky Highway to Whistler, one of North America’s most famous year-round mountain resorts. I stayed at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler, an iconic hotel with a prime slope-side setting and a real sense of alpine grandeur, balanced with warm Canadian hospitality.

Whistler is just as exciting in the warmer months as it is in winter. My time here included a Canadian Wilderness Adventures buggy tour, a brilliant way to get off the beaten track and into the surrounding backcountry, and the SuperFly zipline experience, which sends you soaring high above the valley on some of the longest ziplines in Canada. These kinds of activities are ideal for active couples, groups of friends or families with older children who want a bit of adrenaline with their landscapes.

In and around these adventures there is time to enjoy Whistler’s pedestrian village, with its cafés, bars, restaurants and shops, plus opportunities for hiking, biking and simply relaxing in the mountain air.


Who This Trip Is Perfect For

After experiencing it first-hand, I would particularly recommend this kind of itinerary for:

  • Couples and friends looking for a “bucket list” holiday that combines iconic rail, jaw-dropping scenery and great food
  • Honeymooners who want a mix of relaxing luxury and soft adventure rather than a traditional beach stay
  • Families with older children or teens who love being outdoors and trying new activities
  • Anyone who has always wanted to see the Canadian Rockies but prefers to travel in comfort, with seamless transfers and hosted experiences

Because I have personally stayed in the hotels, travelled on the Rocky Mountaineer and taken part in these excursions, I can now tailor the trip to match your pace, interests and preferred season, whether you want to travel in the height of summer, catch the autumn colours or pair it with a winter ski stay.


Ready To Start Planning Your Own Canadian Rockies Adventure?

If this has sparked ideas for your own Canadian adventure, I would love to help you turn it into a perfectly tailored itinerary. I can advise on the best time to go, how many nights to spend in each place, which experiences to pre-book and how to combine everything into a smooth, memorable journey.

Contact me today to start planning your own Rocky Mountaineer and Western Canada escape.

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