MONTREAL & MONT TREMBLANT: City & Ski Break

MONTREAL’S OLD QUARTER

Arriving in Montreal in February felt like stepping straight into a snow globe. The air was crisp, the sky powder blue, and the streets of Old Montreal were dusted with fresh snow that crunched underfoot.

We based ourselves in the charming area around Notre-Dame Basilica, where cobblestone streets, elegant old stone buildings and flickering streetlamps give everything a distinctly European feel. Walking down the main streets of Old Montreal, we passed cosy cafés with steamed-up windows, independent boutiques and inviting bistros. Even in February’s sub-zero temperatures, there was a buzz in the air: locals wrapped in parkas dashing to work, visitors pausing to take photos of the basilica’s intricate façade, and horse-drawn carriages clip-clopping through the snow.

SAINT SULPICE HOTEL – CENTRAL AND COZY

For our city stay we chose the Saint Sulpice Hotel, tucked just behind the Notre-Dame Basilica in the heart of Old Montreal. It is perfectly placed for exploring the historic quarter on foot, step outside and you are moments from the basilica, the waterfront and the cobbled streets of Old Montreal, yet inside it is quiet and serene.  A perfect base to explore Old Montreal.

FAIRMONT MONT TREMBLANT – SKI IN AND SKI OUT WITH SLOPESIDE SPA

After two nights of city exploring, we headed up to Mont Tremblant for some skiing. It is only when you arrive that you truly appreciate how pretty the village is: colourful buildings lining the pedestrian streets, fairy lights twinkling in the snow, and the mountain rising steeply above. It is the kind of resort that looks like it belongs on a Christmas card, even in February.

We stayed at the Fairmont Mont Tremblant, which quickly became one of my favourite ski hotels. Its biggest USP for me is the slope side location. It is genuinely ski in, ski out.  Inside, the hotel delivers that classic Fairmont combination of warmth and understated luxury. The lobby has a mountain lodge feel, with plenty of cosy corners to curl up in. The spa was a highlight, especially the outdoor hot tubs where we soaked with snowflakes drifting down around us and the mountain lit up in the background. After a day in -20°C, that contrast of icy air and hot water felt incredible. It became a little ritual at the end of each ski day.

MONT TREMBLANT VILLAGE, SKI AREA & WEATHER

Mont Tremblant village itself is compact, walkable and full of character. The main pedestrian street slopes gently up the hill, lined with restaurants, bars, patisseries and shops. In the evenings we would wander out, our breath hanging in the air, choosing between fondue restaurants, cosy bistros and lively spots for a post-ski drink. There is a distinctly French atmosphere, from the language to the menus, which often feature steak frites, French onion soup and local specialities. For a family that loves food, we were spoiled for choice.

The ski area is very well suited to beginners and intermediates, which worked perfectly for us. There are plenty of gentle greens and confidence-building blues, along with some more challenging reds for when you want to push yourself a little. The pistes are clearly marked and the lift system is easy to navigate, so it is a great mountain for mixed-ability groups.

What you really have to be prepared for, though, is the cold. In February, we experienced temperatures down to -20°C, sometimes even colder with the windchill. It is a dry cold, which helps, but good kit is essential. Heated gloves and heated socks were absolute game changers for us, and I would say they move from “nice to have” to “non-negotiable” at those temperatures. Multiple thin layers, good face protection and frequent hot chocolate stops kept everyone happy on the mountain.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Looking back, what I loved most about this trip was how it reinvented the classic ski holiday. Instead of a straight seven nights in resort, we started with a city break in Montreal then moved on to the slopes at Mont Tremblant. It gave the week a lovely rhythm: culture, history and food in the old quarter, followed by fresh mountain air, skiing and spa time in the Laurentians.

The contrast between strolling past Notre-Dame Basilica and the cobbled streets of Old Montreal, eating poutine in a historic setting, and then a few days later skiing straight out of the Fairmont onto snowy runs felt really special. It was a reminder that Canada, and Quebec in particular, offers so much more than just skiing. You get that blend of French flair and North American warmth, proper winter weather and seriously good food, all wrapped up in postcard-perfect scenery.

Looking to shake up your usual ski week and try something a little different?  Then get in touch.