Touchdown in Johannesburg & Coastal Glamour in Durban

After an overnight British Airways flight in premium economy, I landed into Johannesburg surprisingly fresh. I have to say, I was very impressed with the leg room and comfort, which made all the difference for an overnight flight

On arrival I experienced a service I will now be adding to all suitable future bookings: I was met at the aircraft door by Junior from the Menzies team, who whisked me through the airport. Immigration, baggage collection, re-check in, security and then personally escorted to the gate for my onward flight to Durban. No stress, no “where do I go now?”, just smooth, calm efficiency. Exactly how travel should feel. 

A short 50-minute hop later and I arrived in Durban: a vibrant coastal city on the Indian Ocean. Think warm breezes, sweeping beaches and an easy-going, yet energetic, atmosphere. It feels safe, welcoming and full of life, with plenty to see and do, whether you love food, culture or simply sea views. 

We hit the ground running with a site inspection and lunch at the legendary Oyster Box Hotel. This place is pure “wow” material. A family-owned, iconic luxury hotel, it sits proudly overlooking the red-and-white Umhlanga Lighthouse with endless Indian Ocean views. Over lunch on the terrace we had a few cheeky monkeys eyeing up our food, so watch your plate! It is one of those hotels that manages to feel both glamorous and homely at the same time, the perfect start to your South African adventure,

Home that night was Sala Beach House, a small luxury property with just seven rooms and a three-bedroom villa.  Intimate, stylish and right on the coast, it had that “hidden gem” feel. Perfect for those who love understated luxury and the feeling that you’ve discovered somewhere special.  This would be the perfect stop at the end for my clients  the perfect location to chill and relax after a busy adventure.

From Ocean Breezes to Historic Battlefields

It was then time to swap the coast for culture and history, leaving Sala Beach House behind and heading inland for Fugitives’ Drift and the famous Anglo-Zulu battlefields of Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift. 

This was a poignant and incredibly moving day. The battles of 1879 between the British Empire and the Zulu Kingdom are brought to life here by expert guides, and our two, Brian and Dougie, were outstanding, Their knowledge, passion and storytelling are second to none.   Standing on those hillsides, listening to them describe events in vivid detail, you could almost hear the echoes of history.   Dougie is the son of famous South African historian David Rattray, he is definitely following in her footsteps and is a great story teller!

It is not just a “tour” but a powerful experience that adds real depth to any South Africa itinerary. As we walked the terrain, a few zebras casually wandered past, reminding us that you are in the African bush, where wildlife and history intertwine. 

I thoroughly recommend including the battlefields if you can: it changes the way you see South Africa, its past and its people. 

Into Zulu Heartland – Ghost Mountain Inn & Local Culture

Despite the long drives and what we affectionately called the “African massage” (bumpy, uneven roads that shake you awake more effectively than any espresso), each day of this trip brought something totally different. 

 Ghost Mountain Inn, in Mkuze, northern KwaZulu-Natal. The inn sits at the foot of Ghost Mountain, said by some to resemble a woman lying down with her long hair flowing behind her. Once you hear that, you cannot unsee it. 

After our journey, we had just enough time for a visit to a local Zulu homestead, arriving by safari jeep. We were greeted warmly by Justice and his family, with traditional Zulu dancing that was both joyful and powerful. Justice then talked us through Zulu culture and everyday life in the homestead. 

Let us just say I learned that I would not make a very good Zulu wife! 

It was one of those experiences that grounds your trip in real human stories: not just landscapes and lodges, but people, traditions and humour. 

Lake Jozini & The Road to mFulaWozi Wilderness

Before leaving Ghost Mountain behind, there is so much to offer here and in the surrounding area but time didn’t allow as we had a date with some wildlife and a safari,   we just had time for a  cruise on Lake Jozini. This vast lake is home to a wonderful array of wildlife: birds, crocodiles and, of course, hippos. The hippos were in a sleepy mood when we visited, but we were still treated to a few heads popping above the surface to say hello.

mFulaWozi Wilderness: The Wow Factor

Arriving at mFulaWozi felt like stepping into another world. The private game reserve is home to two stunning lodges: 

Mthembu Lodge located on the banks of the White iMfolozi River, Mthembu overlooks pristine wilderness. This was my lodge, and I was more than happy about that. My luxury suite was jaw-dropping: elegant, spacious and seamlessly connected to the landscape. The shower has no blind and overlooks pure wilderness. Fortunately, it is the animals with the better view, or I might have frightened them! The lodge has just nine suites in total, seven one-bedroom and two family suites, which keeps it intimate and exclusive. 

Biyela Lodge  perched on a hillside with panoramic views over the iMfolozi floodplains, Biyela offers 12 standalone luxury suites, nine of which come with private plunge pools. It has that “on top of the world” feeling, with endless views that change throughout the day.

There is around a 45-minute game drive between the two lodges, which gives you a sense of the size of the reserve. Both are beautifully designed, but what really stood out was the service. Within hours, the staff knew us all by name, a small but incredibly meaningful touch that makes you feel immediately at home. 

Life on Safari: Big Five & Amarula Sunrises

mFulaWozi Wilderness is home to the Big Five and more, with access to the adjoining national park as well. 

When you stay here, your rhythm quickly becomes: 

·       Early morning game drive 

·       Leisurely brunch and downtime 

·       Late afternoon/early evening game drive 

·       Dinner under starry skies

You never know what you will see, which is all part of the magic. 

On morning drives you stop for coffee, tea or, in my case, a hot chocolate with a generous dash of Amarula. Highly recommended: it keeps you awake after those pre-dawn starts and feels wonderfully indulgent as you stand in the cool morning air, watching the bush wake up. 

Evening drives end with sundowners, often with a dramatic African sunset as your backdrop. A G&T never tasted so good. 

I was extraordinarily lucky: on my very first safari, I managed to see all of the Big Five. 

·       Lion 

·       Leopard 

·       Elephant 

·       Rhino 

·       Buffalo

As well as zebra, giraffe, warthog (Pumbaa!), impala, kudu and countless bird species. 

Zebra (s) completely stole my heart, perhaps because they were the first animals I saw in the wild back at Fugitives’ Drift, and we kept encountering them throughout the journey. Did you know a group of moving Zebra is called a “Dazzle” such a cool name but I still have a soft spot for the elegant giraffes too, gliding silently through the bush. 

One of our final mornings summed up safari life perfectly: 

·       04:40 alarm 

·       05:00 wake-up call 

·       05:30 wrapped in a blanket, hot water bottle in hand, climbing onto the game vehicle for one last drive

It was more than worth it. We saw a leopard in the dark, camouflaged so cleverly that you really had to look for her, a spectacular sunrise that lit up the whole landscape, and a lioness with her cubs playing together. Watching them tumble and play-fight, you realise that children really are the same the world over, whether  they are human or animal. 

Seeing so much wildlife in its own environment is humbling and addictive. I now completely understand why so many of my clients return from safari saying it has changed them. 

For my clients your holiday would end back in Durban with a few nights at the beautiful Sala Beach House before heading back to Durban Airport and home.  This being work my trip continued to Johannesburg which was short and sweet but deserves its own blog! Look out for part 2

Why South Africa Stole My Heart

·       A world-class coastal city on the Indian Ocean 

·       Iconic luxury hotels and intimate boutique hideaways 

·       Deeply moving historical sites at Isandlwana, Rorke’s Drift

·       private Big Five reserve with outstanding guiding and service 

·       Some of the most beautiful landscapes and wildlife I have ever seen

Yes, the drives were long and the roads bumpy in places, but every mile brought a new perspective, a new story or a new “pinch me” moment and captured my heart