Vienna: Christmas Markets and Old‑World Charm

Daryl Glean on 24 November 2022
After a year of waiting through Covid restrictions and lockdowns, my wife and I finally made it to Vienna, just in time for the Christmas markets. I had always heard Vienna described as the birthplace of the Christmas market tradition, and it certainly lived up to its reputation as a magical place for festive shopping.

We flew direct from London Heathrow with Austrian Airlines, a journey of under two hours. The flight was surprisingly busy for a non‑school holiday, pre‑weekend departure, but passport control at Vienna Airport was quick and efficient. Before leaving the terminal, we visited the Vienna Tourist Office. The staff were warm and helpful, giving us clear directions to our hotel and arranging Vienna passes that covered public transport plus discounts for museums and attractions, available in 24, 48 or 72‑hour versions.

From the airport there are two train options into the city: an express service and a more economical local train. We chose the local option, which took around 25 minutes into the centre, then continued by tram to our hotel, passing beautifully lit buildings and several markets along the way. It was our first glimpse of just how festive Vienna can be.

Our hotel made a wonderful base, with a friendly welcome, a complimentary room upgrade and a spacious, comfortable room just a short walk from the tram stop. There were restaurants, shops and a Christmas market on the doorstep, which helped us make the most of our two‑night stay.

Vienna’s Christmas markets were the real stars of the trip. I had never seen so many in one city: each beautifully decorated, full of character and atmosphere. We explored most of them by tram, warming up with hot drinks and snacks as we went. In total we visited more than eight markets, and although many stalls and prices were similar, the settings made each one feel unique.

My favourite was the market in front of the Town Hall, with its wonderful atmosphere, carousel, ice rink and even a “love tree”. Between markets we still managed to take in some of Vienna’s iconic sights, including the magnificent St Stephen’s Cathedral, the Belvedere Palace and Schönbrunn Palace, whose grounds look particularly atmospheric in winter.

Getting around was simple and good value, with day passes for unlimited public transport. Two nights, however, felt far too short. Vienna’s blend of imperial architecture, culture and cosy Christmas cheer left us determined to return for a longer stay.

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