Montenegro - Big Views with Small Town Charm

First Impressions & Getting Around

We arrived into Tivat airport in August and were immediately reminded that peak season and compact terminals are not always the best combination. It was busy, a bit chaotic and not particularly organised.

Because I had read about this beforehand, it didn’t come as a surprise, which helped.

Once we finally got on the road, we discovered the other classic August challenge: traffic. There is one main coastal route hugging this part of the Adriatic and it can become very slow, especially at weekends and at the height of summer. Our transfer took noticeably longer than expected, but we sat back and enjoyed the views.

Tip:
Travel with patience, water and snacks if you are arriving in July or August.

Use the car ferry whenever the alternative is a long drive around the inner bay. It is quicker, cheaper than you might expect and far more scenic.

 Life on the Promenade: Igalo to Herceg Novi

We stayed in Igalo, close to the entrance of the Bay of Kotor. Igalo itself is an unpretentious, easy‑going coastal town, and what really worked for us was the position. Igalo neighbours Herceg Novi, and the two are linked by a lovely seafront promenade that winds along the water for about 30 minutes between them.

Along the promenade you will find a mix of restaurants and bars with everything from simple grills and pizzerias to smarter seafood spots.  There are also plenty of shops and water activities from jet-skis to paddleboard rentals.

The beaches here tend to be small and pebbly, with concrete platforms and little coves rather than long stretches of sand. The upside is that the water is beautifully clear and a gorgeous temperature in summer. The mountain backdrop gives even the most casual dip a postcard feel. You do need to be comfortable with pebbles underfoot, though.

Tip:
Bring water shoes if you prefer not to wobble over stones or if you like easy access off rocky platforms.

Herceg Novi Old Town: Relaxed and Lived‑In

While the shoreline is all about sea views and sunsets, Herceg Novi Old Town offers a different kind of charm. Compared with Kotor, which can feel quite stage‑set at times, Herceg Novi feels more lived‑in, with a mix of residential life and tourism.

The Old Town rises up the hillside in layers of stone lanes, stairways and terraces. At almost every corner you catch sight of a church tower, a fragment of fortress wall or a flash of blue water between buildings.

Historically, Herceg Novi has been ruled by Bosnians, Venetians, Ottomans and Austro‑Hungarians, and you can feel that patchwork of influences in the details: a Venetian crest above a door here, an Ottoman‑style arch there, Austro‑Hungarian elegance in a façade.

You do need to be prepared for steps. This is not a town for flimsy flip‑flops and creaky knees. The good news is that every climb is rewarded with a café terrace or viewpoint.

Belavista Square

If I had to choose one favourite spot, it would be Belavista Square. It is a small, atmospheric square paved in stone and framed by cafés and restaurants. In the centre stands the beautiful Church of St Michael the Archangel.

We ate at Portofino restaurant in Belavista Square. The food was excellent, the service warm and efficient, and the owner chatted to us about life in Montenegro, sharing little snippets about the seasons, festivals and what it is like when the tourists go home.

Clock Tower, Forte Mare & Kanli Kula

At the entrance to the Old Town stands the clock tower, a pretty landmark that looks especially lovely when lit up in the evening.

Two fortresses dominate different levels of the town:

• Forte Mare, sitting right by the sea, offers panoramic views over the bay and is a brilliant place for photos.
• Kanli Kula, higher up, feels grand and imposing, with wide terraces and a sense of history layered over centuries.

Exploring both gives you different perspectives on the town and the bay, and it is easy to imagine ships appearing around the headland in another era.

Food and Drink Favourites

Bel Paese, in Igalo serves great pizza, with generous portions and a busy, friendly atmosphere. It is one of those places that clearly has a loyal following, and you can see why.

Lijada, also in Igalo, is a characterful restaurant decorated with fishing nets and maritime touches. The seafood was excellent, the service attentive and there was a lovely buzz without feeling rushed or touristy.

As previously mentioned, Portofino offers a perfect combination of setting, service and food in the heart of the Old Town.

For something livelier, we gravitated towards the Drunk Octopus Bar near Forte Mare. On weekend evenings it is particularly vibrant, with people sitting out on the stone steps, live music playing and a relaxed energy. It feels local and fun rather than forced.

For a more polished experience, we booked a table at Yachting Club in Herceg Novi, a waterfront restaurant that makes the most of the beautiful setting.

Tip:
In August, reserve tables for dinner if there is somewhere specific you want to try, particularly on Friday and Saturday nights.

Kotor, Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks

A visit to Kotor is almost non‑negotiable in this part of Montenegro. The boat journey around the bay to reach it is spectacular. It’s one of those journeys where you keep wanting to stop for photos.

Once you pass through the gates into the walled Kotor’s Old Town, you enter a different world. It’s filled with narrow cobbled alleys, café‑filled squares, faded Venetian palaces and churches tucked into corners. It is polished and atmospheric, but it can also be busy, especially when cruise ships are in.

Tip:
Aim to arrive earlier in the day to avoid the peak heat and crowds. If you have the energy, walk up towards the city walls and fortress above the town. The steps are steep but the views over the bay are unforgettable.

We combined Kotor with a visit to Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks, which made for a full and very rewarding day.

Perast is a small, postcard‑worthy village of stone palazzi and churches lining the waterfront. It feels quieter and more peaceful than Kotor, perfect for a slower wander and a long coffee.

From Perast, a short boat ride takes you to Our Lady of the Rocks, a tiny artificial island crowned by a 17th‑century church. Inside, paintings, votive offerings and maritime artefacts tell stories of sailors, storms and answered prayers.

This trio of Kotor, Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks gives you a lovely mix - the bustle of a famous old town, the tranquillity of a waterfront village and the intrigue of a tiny island sanctuary.

The Kotor – Lovćen Cable Car (The One That Got Away)

One experience we did not manage to squeeze in, but which I would recommend considering, is the Kotor – Lovćen cable car. We heard enthusiastic reviews from other visitors and locals alike.

The cable car journey takes around 11 minutes, covering roughly 3.9 km and climbing about 1,316 metres. You glide from near sea level up into the mountains, watching the Bay of Kotor spread out beneath you in ever‑wider panoramas.

It is firmly on my list for “next time”.

Portonovi: A Taste of Modern Luxury

To see a different side of Montenegro, we visited Portonovi marina. This is Montenegro at its sleekest with modern waterfront buildings, designer boutiques, yacht‑filled quays and smart cafés and restaurants. It feels contemporary and international, yet the mountains framing it all remind you exactly where you are.

It is ideal for an early evening stroll, a drink by the water and people‑watching. You may also spot some very impressive yachts and, out in the bay, the occasional cruise liner.

Tivat Airport: Be Prepared

If there is one place not to rely on for comfort and facilities, it is Tivat Airport, especially on the return journey in high season.

The airport is small and struggles with passenger numbers. There is only one very small shop to buy drinks and snacks and there are far too few seats, so many people end up sitting on the floor or standing for long periods.

After a relaxed coastal holiday, it can feel like a bit of a shock.

Tips:

• Arrive with plenty of snacks and water, rather than assuming you will find options at the airport.
• Be ready to stand or sit on the floor while you wait.
• Keep your boarding passes and documents handy so that, when your flight is called, you can move quickly.

Final Thoughts

Montenegro surprised me in the best possible way. It manages to feel wild and dramatic, with those towering mountains and deep bays, yet at the same time it is intimate, friendly and very easy to settle into.

If the idea of combining clear warm seas, atmospheric stone towns and mountain scenery appeal to you, Montenegro more than earns its place on the wish list.