Touching Down: That First Fuzzy Feeling 

Arriving into Dalaman in the evening always feels like the true start of my Kalkan escape. After collecting my bags, I headed out to meet my private minibus, pre‑booked with Enes Travel, a local Kalkan company I have been using for around ten years now. There is something so reassuring about seeing a familiar face waiting, knowing the next part of the journey is taken care of. 

The transfer is around 1 hour 45 minutes, following the curve of the coastline, the sky slowly darkening as you get closer. As we approached those last bends on the D400, I could just make out the lights of Kalkan twinkling in the distance. Every single time, that view gives me a fuzzy feeling: a mix of comfort, excitement and the quiet thrill of knowing I am back in a place that feels like a second home. 

Villa Life Above The Hills

This time around I had booked a four‑bedroom villa in Kodere for my wife and me. On paper, it does sound a little excessive for just two people, but in Kalkan, space and views are part of the magic. Perched high above the hills, the villa gave us the most incredible panorama over the bay. 

From the terrace, the views were truly to die for. The rooftops of Kalkan tumbled down the hillside towards the harbour, the sea stretching out in shimmering shades of blue. In the mornings the light gently crept over the water, and in the evenings the town slowly lit up, the restaurants and bars glowing like lanterns against the night sky. It felt as if we were floating above it all, cocooned in our own peaceful little world. 

Lazy Mornings & Villa Eats 

After a leisurely morning lie‑in on our first full day, hunger eventually won. One of the great joys of staying in a villa in Kalkan is how easy it is to eat well without even leaving your sunlounger. I decided to order some food to be delivered by Villa Eats.

It is such a brilliant option: so many restaurants to choose from, and you can have it all delivered to the villa, often free of charge. You still get to enjoy the variety and quality of Kalkan’s dining scene, but with bare feet, wet hair and a towel wrapped round you. It is relaxed, indulgent and effortlessly easy. 

As the afternoon sun began to soften and the shadows lengthened, it was time to start getting ready for the evening. 

Getting Ready For A Kalkan Evening 

For me, getting ready is simple: a pair of chino shorts, a linen shirt, and I am done. Light, comfortable and just smart enough for Kalkan’s effortlessly stylish evenings. 

For my wife, it is a different story altogether. Cue the fashion show. About five dresses later, she finally settled on a beautiful blue floating dress that moved perfectly as she walked. And, of course, sandals. In Kalkan, with its steep hills and cobbled streets, sandals are an absolute must. They might not sound glamorous, but your ankles will thank you. 

A quick text to Yusaf for a taxi, and within less than ten minutes we were being dropped off at the taxi rank in town, ready to ease into our first night. 

Minibar & Sunsets 

Our first stop is always Minibar. It has become our traditional starting point, the place where our Kalkan evenings officially begin. 

Hasan and his team always deliver impeccable service. We settled at a table, ordered a bottle of wine and did what you are meant to do in Minibar: sit back and soak it all in. For around an hour we simply watched the world drift by. Couples, all dressed up, glided down the street, heading off for pre‑dinner drinks and then dinner. The sun began to sink, the sky slowly deepened, and that golden glow fell over the town. 

There is something almost magical about sitting there, wine in hand, watching the sun set behind the hills and the streets come alive. It is one of those simple holiday moments that imprints itself on your memory.

Baharat & “Fire In The Hole” 

For the first night, there was never any doubt where we would eat: Baharat, one of my favourite restaurants in Kalkan. 

Walking in, we were greeted with the warm welcome I have come to know from Hasan and Metin. They somehow always manage to get me my favourite seat by the balcony. From there you can look out over the sea and across to the other restaurants dotted around, their coloured lanterns glowing softly against the night. 

The atmosphere is intimate but lively, the perfect backdrop for a special dinner. Whenever I visit Baharat, there is one dish I struggle to resist: the chateaubriand. It arrives with its own little bit of theatre, and the familiar cry of “Fire in the hole” always makes me smile. Watching the flames dance, breathing in the rich aroma and then finally cutting into the perfectly cooked steak is an experience in itself. It is indulgent, fun and utterly memorable. 

Out On The Water With Sunset Boats 

Day two started earlier, with a more purposeful alarm. We needed to be down at the harbour for around 9.30 am for our boat trip with Sunset Boats. Ahmed and his team are always so welcoming and accommodating, and a day out on the water is one of the best ways to experience this stretch of coastline. 

For around £40 per person, we had roughly seven hours of sailing ahead of us, cruising between small bays and stopping off at spots like Mouse and Snake Island, to name just a couple. At each stop, we usually had about 30 to 45 minutes to swim in the beautiful turquoise sea. Travelling in September, the water was wonderfully refreshing without being cold, exactly what you need after basking in the sun on deck. 

Around 1 pm, we all sat down together for lunch: ten of us gathered around the table, sharing the kind of food that makes you feel instantly at home. We had börek, beautiful fresh salads, mushrooms and green beans, sea bass, grilled chicken and proper homemade chips like your mum used to make in the 80s. There must have been at least ten dishes of delicious, home‑cooked food. It is amazing to think all of that comes from such a small galley kitchen. 

After lunch, we set sail again, visiting more secluded bays, swimming, sunbathing and just enjoying the peace. And if you think that was it for food, you would be wrong. Later in the afternoon, out came cakes, baklava and fruit platters. It felt like being thoroughly spoiled. 

We arrived back into the harbour at around 5 pm, tired in the best possible way. Our trip  was incredible value: a full day at sea, heaps of food and the kind of relaxed atmosphere you can only get on a small, friendly boat. We treated ourselves to a few glasses of wine and some Efes throughout the day, all very reasonably priced. 

After saying our goodbyes, we were not quite ready for the day to end, so we stopped for one more drink at Fener, “The Lighthouse”, sitting right at the harbour’s edge and watching the other boats glide in one by one. It was the perfect end to a perfect day on the water. 

An Intimate Evening At Coriander 

After a super‑chilled glass of wine at the harbour, it was time to head back to our villa to shower, change and do it all over again. That night, we decided to ask the taxi to drop us at Coriander restaurant. 

Coriander is, without doubt, one of my absolute favourites. A big shout out to Chef Murat, his wife Çiğdem and their son Efe. The restaurant has a lovely outdoor terrace, very intimate, with the tables thoughtfully spaced out so you never feel crowded. 

Murat is a very proud chef who cooks all the dishes himself and holds very high standards. His steaks are fantastic and, for the quality, such good value for money. But it is not just about steak. He also offers some wonderful traditional dishes and I can highly recommend the apricot lamb, which is rich, comforting and full of flavour. 

Coriander is understandably popular, and I would always suggest booking as early as you can. Turning up between 7.30 pm and 9.00 pm without a reservation can mean you will struggle to find a table, especially in peak season. 

Kalkan Evenings: Rooftops, Lanterns & Michelin‑Quality Flavours 

For me, Kalkan is all about the evenings. During the day, the town is relatively quiet, with locals going about their daily lives and visitors scattered between villas, beach clubs and boat trips. But come sunset, Kalkan transforms. 

Rooftop terrace restaurants and waterside spots begin to glow, each one softly lit and ready to serve some truly outstanding food. The town has a wonderfully refined yet relaxed dining scene, and you really are spoilt for choice. 

Some of the notable restaurants I would recommend include Chameleon, Blue Terrace, Çınar, Chata, Lal , Family Small House and Aubergine, all offering their own take on Michelin‑quality dishes with spectacular harbour , rooftop or sea views. If you want something simpler or lighter, there are plenty of excellent options too: Foto Pizza, Ata Mezze & Grill, Mabeyn Ocakbaşı, Rose and Sini Café are all worth seeking out. 

Honestly, you can hardly go wrong with restaurants in Kalkan. This is just a small selection, and each has its own distinct character and flavours. In fact, I could probably recommend almost every restaurant in town. 

Bars, Cocktails & People‑Watching 

As for drinks, Kalkan offers just as many lovely places to sit and watch the world go by. Minibar is my go‑to spot for pre‑dinner drinks, but wherever we wander, we are always greeted with a warm welcome. 

Martin at Moonlight Bar, Hash and Ozzie at Shades Lounge, Backyard No.10, Lime, Bar Zircus and others all add to the town’s effortless charm. Whether you prefer a classic cocktail, a chilled glass of wine or an ice‑cold Efes, Kalkan’s bars provide the perfect backdrop for lingering conversations and lazy, starlit evenings. 

Daytimes In Kalkan: Recharge & Relax 

In contrast to its atmospheric evenings, Kalkan during the day is all about relaxing and recharging. You might choose to spend the day at your villa or hotel, dipping in and out of the pool and reading in the shade, or you might head to one of the many beach clubs scattered along the coastline. 

There are so many to choose from. Lures Beach Club offers an inviting infinity pool and a chic, laid‑back vibe. Zest Beach Club has a more relaxed, elegant feel, perfect for long lunches and lounging in style. Palm Beach Club, run by Hash and his team from Shades Lounge, combines friendly service with that classic Kalkan beach‑club atmosphere: sunbeds, clear water and the option to do as much or as little as you like.  

Wherever you choose, the rhythm of the day is slow and soothing: swim, snooze, snack, repeat.

Shopping  & More Shopping

Shopping in Kalkan is an experience in itself. Start with the Thursday market, where you can buy anything and everything: from spices and fresh produce to clothes, bags and souvenirs. It is best to visit early in the morning, before the midday heat sets in and the stalls get busy. 

In town, you will find some beautiful jewellers offering handmade, expertly crafted bespoke pieces. There is always a warm welcome at Sedat’s, where he even has his own little bar and will happily pour you a drink while you chat through your design ideas. It feels more like visiting a friend than a shop. 

If you are in the mood for “genuine fakes”, you will be spoilt for choice. London Outlet is a great spot for clothing with no hard sell, just relaxed browsing. Designer Leather bags are part of the Kalkan tradition too: you can always tell who is flying home as they wander through town laden with BSG and Class Leather bags, silently wondering if they have left enough room in their suitcases. 

Between the boutiques you will discover charming small shops selling Turkish arts and crafts, hand‑loomed towels and beautiful pottery. And, of course, no shopping trip in Kalkan is complete without picking up a Nazar boncuğu, the traditional Turkish “evil eye” charm, to take a little piece of Kalkan’s luck and colour back home with you. 

Why Kalkan Keeps Pulling Me Back

To sum up, Kalkan is a small, stylish harbour town on Türkiye’s Turquoise Coast, known for its crystal‑clear sea, whitewashed houses, rooftop restaurants and relaxed, upscale vibe. It has a real boutique feel: more refined and quieter than the larger, busier resorts along the coast. 

The dining scene is one of the very best things about it, especially the rooftop restaurants overlooking the harbour and the sea. It is romantic, scenic and atmospheric without ever feeling pretentious. Kalkan is particularly popular with British and European visitors who appreciate good food, beautiful views and a calm, unhurried pace of life. 

For me, it is ideal for couples, villa holidays and those who love relaxed summer evenings with a touch of luxury. Kalkan is perfect for a stylish, laid‑back Mediterranean escape, with more boutique charm than mass tourism. 

Every time I leave, I am already thinking about when I can return.

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