Angkor Wat Temple

Cambodia – Temples, Culture, Adventure & Unforgettable Experiences

Cambodia, Phnom Penh & Siem Reap

Donna Meredith on 02 Nov 2024

Some holidays you enjoy. Others stay with you forever. Our November 2024 adventure through Cambodia was certainly one of those journeys. From the vibrant streets and sunset rivers of Phnom Penh to the awe-inspiring temples of Siem Reap, we experienced ancient history, incredible food, fascinating culture and unforgettable encounters – including meeting rescued elephants in the foothills of the Kulen Mountains. There were magical moments, emotional moments and plenty of surprises along the way.

There are some destinations you visit, and others that stay with you long after you’ve returned home. Cambodia is definitely one of them.

Our adventure began with an afternoon flight from Hanoi to Phnom Penh. We arrived in the evening and checked into the lovely Baitong Hotel, right in the heart of the city: the perfect base for exploring Cambodia’s vibrant capital.

Phnom Penh: The Pearl of Asia

Known as the “Pearl of Asia”, Phnom Penh is a fascinating blend of old and new. Set where the Mekong, Bassac and Tonlé Sap rivers meet, the city combines elegant French colonial buildings and wide boulevards with bustling markets, colourful temples, riverside restaurants and a lively street scene.

After breakfast, we met our private guide and set out to discover some of Phnom Penh’s highlights. Our first stop was the magnificent Royal Palace, where we explored beautifully ornate buildings and the spectacular Silver Pagoda. Named for the more than 5,000 heavy silver tiles covering its floor, the pagoda houses an impressive collection of Buddha images crafted from gold, silver, crystal and bronze.

Royal Palace - Phnom Penh

We then visited Wat Phnom, one of the city’s most important Buddhist temples, closely linked to the origins of Phnom Penh. While wandering the grounds, we came across a group of young men playing Sek Dai, a traditional Cambodian form of kick volleyball. Watching them effortlessly keep a small woven rattan ball in the air using just their feet and bodies was incredible, and certainly put our own sporting abilities to shame.

A Sobering Side of Cambodia

After lunch at a traditional Cambodian restaurant, our day took a more sombre turn. We visited the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, which provide a deeply moving insight into one of the darkest periods in Cambodia’s history. Between 1975 and 1979, the Khmer Rouge regime executed and buried thousands of people here.

Killing Fields Memorial

We also visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, housed in the former S-21 prison. The photographs, personal belongings and evidence of the atrocities committed there were extremely difficult to take in. We eventually decided we had seen enough and left early, but felt it was important to visit both sites and remember the people whose lives were affected. Cambodia’s history is incredibly poignant, and these visits added a powerful and important dimension to our experience.

Sunset on the Mekong

After such an emotional afternoon, it was a relief to return to the hotel to rest before heading out again: this time for a sunset cruise along the Tonlé Sap and Mekong Rivers.

With the Phnom Penh skyline as our backdrop, we enjoyed French-inspired Khmer tapas and a couple of local Angkor beers while watching fishermen go about their daily lives and the city slowly transform as the sun disappeared. As darkness fell, Phnom Penh began to sparkle, its illuminated skyline reflected in the river. It was one of those simple travel moments you know you’ll remember.

Phnom Penh waterfront at night

The next day we explored more of Phnom Penh, including the lively Tonlé Bassac area, packed with traditional Khmer architecture, temples, restaurants and bars. By early evening we were on Bassac Street, enjoying delicious Khmer food and local beer while a constant stream of tuk-tuks and scooters weaved through the streets. Eventually we hopped into a tuk-tuk back to our hotel, simply enjoying watching Phnom Penh come alive around us.

Onwards to Siem Reap

The following day we flew from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and checked into the stylish Aviary Hotel, conveniently located in the centre of town.

Siem Reap has a completely different feel to Phnom Penh. It is smaller, wonderfully atmospheric and, of course, famous as the gateway to the extraordinary temples of Angkor. There are fabulous restaurants, colourful markets, bars and plenty to explore after dark. No visit would be complete without experiencing the legendary Pub Street, which we did on our very first evening.

Pub Street in Siem Riep

Angkor Wat and the Temples of Angkor

The next morning, our private guide collected us for what would become one of the absolute highlights of our trip: a full day exploring the Angkor temples.

We began at Angkor Wat. Covering more than 400 acres, it is the world’s largest religious complex, and seeing it in person is completely different from any photograph. We spent hours exploring intricate carvings, vast courtyards and hidden corners, our guide sharing stories while we stopped constantly to admire the architecture and capture yet another “perfect” shot.

Angkor Wat

Next came Ta Prohm, better known to many as the “Tomb Raider Temple” thanks to its appearance in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. After the fall of the Khmer Empire, Ta Prohm was abandoned and gradually reclaimed by the jungle. Today, enormous silk-cotton tree roots twist around the ancient stone structures, some appearing to grow straight through the buildings. Atmospheric, mysterious and slightly eerie, it feels almost otherworldly, and it is easy to see why it was chosen as a film location.

Ta Prohm "Tomb Raider" Temple

We continued to Angkor Thom, the last and largest capital of the ancient Khmer Empire, its enormous gates flanked by statues of gods and demons. Wild long-tailed macaques roam freely among the ruins. They are fascinating to watch from a safe distance, especially when one confidently steals a half-eaten banana from an unsuspecting tourist and the rest of the troop promptly start fighting over it.

Our final temple was the extraordinary Bayon, famous for its serene faces carved into its towers and its walls depicting both battles and scenes from everyday Khmer life. After around five hours of exploring in the heat, we were more than ready to return to the hotel and cool off in the rooftop infinity pool.

Bayon Temple

Culture, Cuisine and Elephants

That evening we experienced the Phare Cambodian Circus, with front-row seats to a spectacular blend of theatre, storytelling, dance, high-energy music and acrobatics. Before the show, our personal host introduced us to a selection of freshly prepared Cambodian delicacies. The food, atmosphere and performance offered another vivid glimpse into Cambodian culture.

Phare Cambodian Circus

The next morning brought something I had been especially looking forward to: visiting the Kulen Elephant Forest Sanctuary in the foothills of the Kulen Mountains. This ethical elephant experience is home to retired elephants that once carried tourists around the Angkor temples before the practice was stopped.

Instead of riding or watching them perform, we learned about their stories and the efforts to give them a more natural life. We helped prepare their food and joined the mahouts on a guided walk through the forest. The elephants were free to roam, graze and forage while we simply followed and observed.

Kulen Elephant Forest Sanctuary

One of my favourite moments was sitting down to a traditional Khmer meal and cocktails under cover while watching the elephants playing in a muddy pond. One particularly cheeky elephant wandered over to investigate, clearly wondering if our lunch might be worth sampling. It felt special and respectful, focused on observing these magnificent animals rather than interacting with them for entertainment.

Apsara: The Spirit of Cambodia

For our final evening in Cambodia, we enjoyed an Apsara dinner show. Over an Asian set-menu, we watched traditional Apsara dancers perform beautifully choreographed routines accompanied by live music. The elaborate costumes, graceful movements and haunting music provided a fascinating insight into Cambodia’s cultural heritage. The evening also included displays of Bokator, Cambodia’s traditional martial art, a powerful contrast to the elegance of the dancing.

Apsara Dinner Show

The following morning it was time to fly on to Thailand, but Cambodia had already left its mark. From the buzzing streets and riverside sunsets of Phnom Penh to the breathtaking temples of Angkor, from unforgettable food and cultural experiences to the emotional lessons of its past, Cambodia offered so much more than we expected: history, culture, scenery, adventure and some genuinely unforgettable moments.

Perhaps that is what I loved most about Cambodia: every day brought something completely different.

Heading back to our hotel in a Tuk-Tuk

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