Hong Kong: The city that will always have my heart

Hong Kong is the classic blend of contrasts: old and new, Chinese and British, gritty and glossy, neon and nature.

Before I moved there, I thought it was all about the famous skyline: dense high-rises, dramatic harbour views, and those towering housing blocks you see in films. But there is so much more. Some of the best hiking in the world is in Hong Kong, along with beautiful outlying islands, beaches, and quiet corners of pure serenity.

Taxis are cheap and plentiful, so hopping from one side of Hong Kong Island to the other is incredibly easy, and the public transport system is ultra-reliable. Between the MTR (underground), trains, buses and old-school trams, getting around is part of the fun.

Many people still think of Hong Kong as a stopover: a night or two on the way to somewhere further south. I can absolutely help you do that. But I will always gently encourage you to stay a little longer, to tick off the big sights and to experience some of the hidden gems that made me fall in love with living there.

Years after moving back to the UK, my husband and I returned with our children when they were six and eight. Seeing “our” city through their eyes, doing things they would really enjoy as well as revisiting the places where we had started our married life, made me fall for Hong Kong all over again.

The Big “Must-Do” Hong Kong Experiences

The Peak Tram & The View From The Top

One truly iconic Hong Kong experience I could not miss is taking the Peak Tram up to Victoria Peak. This is not like the flat trams on the island: this one is effectively strapped to the side of the hill, climbing steeply up through a tunnel of greenery and glass.

At the top, you can walk around the circular loop trail for some of the best views in the world: Hong Kong Island spread out below you, the harbour, Kowloon and the sea in all directions, with views north, south, east and west. Yes, there is a slightly commercial feel with fast food joints and shopping at the top, but it is still absolutely a must. The journey and the panorama together are unforgettable, for adults and children alike.

 The Big Buddha and Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car

Taking the Ngong Ping cable car up to the village on Lantau Island to visit the Big Buddha is another classic Hong Kong day out. You glide over the water and lush hills, watching the city fall away behind you as the mountains rise ahead.

At the top, the Tian Tan Buddha sits serenely above it all, a beautiful contrast to the bustle of Central. Wander the village, climb the steps if you are feeling energetic, and soak up the views. It is a brilliant outing with children too: the ride alone is an adventure.

 The Star Ferry at Sunset

If I had to pick one truly iconic Hong Kong moment, this would be it. Take the Star Ferry from Central across Victoria Harbour to Tsim Sha Tsui around sunset. On the way over, you see the skyline in daylight, the forest of skyscrapers stacked up behind the water. Have dinner on the Kowloon side, then come back later in the dark, when the buildings are lit and their reflections shimmer in the harbour. Sitting on that old-fashioned green-and-white ferry, feeling the warm breeze and watching the lights dance on the water, is pure Hong Kong magic.

 Man Mo Temple & Old Hong Kong Streets

Man Mo Temple in Sheung Wan is one of those places that transports you. The air is thick with incense, coils of it hanging from the ceiling in crazy numbers. It is a working temple, so you will see locals arriving quietly to pray, burn offerings, and remember their ancestors.

Step back outside and you are in a neighbourhood full of intriguing traditional Chinese medicine stores, antique shops, and all sorts of curiosities. It is a wonderful place to wander, browse for antiques or just people-watch. Nearby, I love the whole Sai Ying Pun and Central area for food and drinks: trendy coffee shops, cool bars, hole‑in‑the‑wall eateries and Michelin‑starred restaurants. It is very easy to follow your nose and just let your tummy guide you.

Southside Beaches: Stanley & Repulse Bay

Hong Kong’s southside beaches always surprise people. They are so easy to reach by bus or taxi and offer a completely different side to the city.

Stanley has a more traditional, slightly scruffy charm. There is a waterfront promenade, a market for souvenirs and clothes, and plenty of places to sit with a drink and watch the world go by.  Repulse Bay feels more polished and glamorous, with a lovely crescent of sand, chic cafes and a slightly more “glitzy” feel. Children love it here: there are parks, space to run about, and lots of opportunities for ice cream. For adults, it is a perfect breather between city explorations: coffee with your toes in the sand, then back to skyscrapers within the hour.

Hong Kong Disneyland

Hong Kong Disneyland is a brilliant option if you are travelling with children, or if you are Disney fans who want something more manageable than the huge US parks. You reach it via the MTR, and there is even a special Disney‑themed train, complete with Mickey‑shaped windows, which adds to the anticipation. The park still packs a lot of punch with rides, shows and character encounters, but it feels far less daunting and overwhelming. It is a very doable, very fun day out.

Hiking: Dragon’s Back & Beyond

One of the most surprising things about Hong Kong is just how good the hiking is. The Dragon’s Back trail is perhaps the most famous, and for good reason. I remember doing it with my son in a carrier: it is a decent workout with rolling ups and downs along the “spine” of the ridge, but the views at the top are breathtaking. As you crest the peaks, the city disappears and you start to see vast sweeps of ocean, green hills and distant islands. The trail eventually brings you down towards Shek O or Big Wave Bay, and you can easily continue on to Stanley afterwards for seafood and a cold beer!

Outlying Islands: A Different Pace Of Life

Another recommended Hong Kong experience is to take a ferry to one of the outlying islands. The moment you step off the boat, the pace of life changes. Fishing villages, small local markets, laundry flapping from balconies, and little seafood restaurants clustered along the waterfront.

My favourite was Lamma island, You genuinely feel like you are in a completely different place, even though you are still in Hong Kong. It is an incredible contrast to the glass and steel of Central’s business district, and a wonderful way to understand the quieter, more traditional side of Hong Kong life.

 Hong Kong’s Malls & The Landmark

Hong Kong does shopping like nowhere else. The Landmark in Central is one of the most established luxury malls, and the level of wealth on display is something you really need to see to believe. The floors gleam, the windows glitter with designer goods, and the air is scented with traditional flowers.

There are several of these really iconic malls in Hong Kong, each offering a slightly different experience, even though you will definitely spot the same designer names repeating again and again. Beyond pure shopping, you can also find luxury cinemas and air-con activities for children, which make them surprisingly useful between sightseeing, meals and naps. I love wandering through The Landmark, grabbing a coffee, and simply people‑watching. You will see shoppers emerging with armfuls of bags, impeccably dressed locals and expats, and the whole glamorous theatre of it all unfolding in front of you.

 Indulge Your Feet!

One of my absolute must‑do experiences in Hong Kong is getting a foot massage. It is a real local ritual and far more special than it sounds. When I lived there, one of my weekly treats was meeting girlfriends after work and sinking into those big massage chairs together. You can book a private room for three or four of you, or sit in the main area, chatting away, putting the world to rights before heading out for dinner. When we went back with the children, my husband and I took them too and they loved it. Therapists can go gentler for kids, so it becomes this funny, shared family moment they will not forget. These massage places are scattered all over the city, often tucked away in slightly nondescript buildings where you head up in a lift and step out onto a random floor, but if you trust the process, you will have an experience you are unlikely to find quite the same way anywhere else.

Old-School Trams & Neon Nights

Riding the old double‑decker trams with kids is an absolute must. They rumble along slowly, bells dinging, and it is such a fun, inexpensive way to see the city. I love taking the tram from Causeway Bay or Happy Valley right across to Kennedy Town. You trundle through some of the busiest streets, where crossing the road on foot can feel like taking your life in your hands, but from the top deck you are safely above it all: people everywhere, towering buildings, bright lights, billboards and endless shopping malls. It is a perfect snapshot of the juxtapositions that make Hong Kong so compelling: old meets new, chaos meets charm

Eating Your Way Around Hong Kong

I could write an entire blog on food alone. Hong Kong is a dream for anyone who likes to eat.

Dim Sum at Din Tai Fung

My favourite restaurant of all time is a Taiwanese dim sum chain called Din Tai Fung, and Hong Kong has several branches dotted around the city.

If you go (and please do), you must order the xiao long bao (soup dumplings). They arrive steaming in bamboo baskets, delicate and perfectly folded, with that magical burst of rich broth inside. Pair them with a selection of other dim sum and some simple green vegetable dishes. I still have not tasted greens quite like theirs anywhere else in the world. If I were doing the Star Ferry trip, I would head to the Din Tai Fung in Tsim Sha Tsui afterwards for the perfect post‑harbour feast.

Vietnamese Pho & Hole‑in‑the‑Wall Gems

I also adore the Vietnamese food scene in Hong Kong. Around the streets near Star Street in Admiralty, you will find small, unpretentious pho shops: plastic tables and stools, slightly sticky floors, menu photos on the walls, and bowls of steaming, fragrant noodle soup that are as good as anything I have eaten in Vietnam itself. It is exactly the kind of place that makes a city feel real and lived‑in, rather than just glossy.

Bougie Eateries In Historic Buildings

More recently, there has been a wave of fun, high‑end eateries in cool redeveloped buildings. One of my favourites is a relatively new complex in what used to be the old Central Police Station; a mix of striking architecture, art spaces and some brilliant restaurants and bars. On our last trip back to Hong Kong, friends took us to Madame Fu. The Chinese food was excellent, but it was the setting and interiors that made it really special: beautiful design, thoughtful lighting and a sense of dining in a space with a story.

Hong Kong Airport & Getting Around

Hong Kong International Airport is slick, efficient and incredibly traveller‑friendly. You can check in for your flight in the city, drop your bags, and let them be whisked off to your check‑in desk while you enjoy your last hours in town.

The Airport Express train gets you from Central to the airport in under half an hour and is by far the easiest public transport option. Taxis are plentiful and good value too, especially if you have a lot of luggage or tired children in tow. The whole arrival and departure process feels far less stressful than many major hubs, which I really appreciate when travelling as a family.

How I Can Help You Experience “My” Hong Kong

For me, Hong Kong is not just a convenient place to change planes. It is a city of layers and contrasts: incense and neon, peaks and beaches, fishing villages and rooftop bars, cheap eats and Michelin stars.

Because I lived there, and later returned as a parent with young children, I know both sides: the adult wandering the backstreets, and the mum planning days that keep a toddler or older children happy.

If you are thinking about Hong Kong, I can help you:  

•  Build in the big “must see” sights like the Peak Tram, the Big Buddha and the Star Ferry
• Add in neighbourhood walks and routes using trams, buses and ferries to really soak up the different vibes
• Tailor the pace to you, whether that is coffee‑fuelled exploring (I am a total coffee snob) or plenty of beach time and pool breaks
• Find food and experiences that suit your tastes and your family, from street‑side noodles to special‑occasion dinners

If Hong Kong is on your radar, I would love to help you discover the version of the city that made me fall in love with it, and create your own memories there too :-)