Discovering the Gentle Magic of Kerala

After around 17 hours of travelling, I finally touched down in Kerala, in the south of India. We flew via Mumbai with Air India in economy class. I will admit I had been a little dubious about the airline before this trip, but I was very pleasantly surprised. The long‑haul sector was excellent: roomy seats, good food and crew who were genuinely warm, polite and always smiling. It set the tone beautifully for what turned out to be an unforgettable journey.

At Kochi airport we were met by our local hosts, TBi, who whisked away our luggage and transferred us to our first hotel, The Brunton Boatyard in Fort Kochi. As it was still mid‑morning and our rooms were not yet ready, we decided there was only one sensible way to recover from a long travel day: a full‑body massage. It was unlike any massage I have had before, but incredibly relaxing. So relaxing, in fact, that I promptly fell asleep. Afterwards we checked into our rooms, enjoyed a leisurely lunch and began to meet the rest of our Travel Counsellors group. A short stroll gave us our first taste of Fort Kochi before a traditional High Tea, followed by a harbour cruise around the bay. That evening we had a drinks reception and dinner, where the final member of our group finally joined us after a delayed flight. We were now officially Travel Counsellors on tour. The food was amazing, but after a very long couple of days, bed had never felt so good. Tomorrow, the real adventure would begin.

Exploring Fort Kochi: Culture, Colour and Kathakali

Our first full day started with a fabulous breakfast and strong coffee to shake off the jet lag. We then headed out on foot to explore Fort Kochi. We watched the famous Chinese fishing nets being hauled in, and wandered through the fish market where the morning’s catch is laid out in all its colourful, glistening glory. From there we walked the narrow streets, visited a traditional wash house where men still do all the washing, drying and ironing by hand, and explored a local palace and synagogue that gave us a glimpse into the area’s layered history. A tuk tuk ride added a burst of chaotic fun and local flavour before a hotel inspection and yet another delicious lunch. In the afternoon, a dip in the hotel pool was very welcome in the Keralan heat. That evening we experienced a Kathakali dance drama. This classical dance form is all about expressive eyes, detailed hand gestures and elaborate costumes. Watching it live felt like stepping into a living storybook. It was a full, fabulous day of sightseeing, brought to life by our excellent guide.

Up into the Mountains: Munnar and the Tea Country

Next we left the coast behind and travelled up into the mountains to Munnar. On the way we stopped at Windermere River House, a beautiful 5‑room property with gardens that run right down to the river. It was incredibly peaceful: the sort of place where you could happily switch off, read a book and listen to the sounds of nature for a few days. They even offer bird safaris, and elephants are known to come and drink from the river from time to time. From here it is around 2 hours from the airport and then a further 2 hours to Windermere Estate, our base for the next two nights. Sitting at around 5,000 feet above sea level, the climate here is noticeably cooler and fresher. We arrived to a warm welcome, settled into our rooms and then gathered for drinks before another excellent dinner. The following morning, we were up early for a bird‑spotting walk before breakfast, then headed out to visit Srishti, a centre for people with additional needs. This visit was both inspiring and humbling. Watching how skilfully the workers carried out their tasks, and seeing the pride in what they created, was a real highlight of the trip and a reminder of the positive impact responsible tourism can have. From there we visited a tea factory to follow the process of tea making from leaf to cup, before stopping in Munnar town to wander through the market. After lunch back at Windermere Estate, a few of us joined a plantation hike. Cardamom is the main spice grown in this area, and the walk took us through steep paths and lush undergrowth. Our guide was wonderfully knowledgeable about the local flora, fauna and even the tiniest of insects we encountered along the way. Later that afternoon we enjoyed a tea tasting experience, almost like a wine tasting but with tea, which felt very appropriate in this region. That evening we visited a nearby hotel for an inspection followed by buffet dinner, then it was time to pack for an early start. The journey continued.

Spice, Forests and the Periyar Tiger Reserve

From Munnar we travelled through the dramatic Western Ghats mountain range to Kumily, just outside Thekkady. Along the way we passed women working in the tea plantations, plucking the leaves by hand. The scenery was simply stunning, all rolling green hills and terraces of tea. Before reaching our hotel, The Spice Village, we stopped at a spice plantation. I have visited spice plantations before on my travels, but this was by far the best experience I have had. We were shown how different spices grow, could see, touch and smell them, and of course had the chance to buy some to take home. On arrival at The Spice Village we checked into our rooms, which had almost the feel of an African safari lodge with their natural materials and rustic elegance. After a couple of hours to relax, we headed out to another hotel for an inspection and dinner. An early night was essential, as we had a 6.15 am start for our hike in the Periyar Tiger Reserve. The next morning, we took a short tuk tuk ride to the reserve entrance, where we were split into two groups to follow different trails. Before we set off, there was one essential piece of kit to put on: leech socks. Very glamorous, but very necessary! We crossed a lake on a simple raft to reach the start of our walk. The nature trail lasted about an hour and a half, winding through undergrowth and forest. We spotted different bird species, plenty of spiders and lots of elephant dung. Sadly, no elephants or tigers this time, but we did see a tiger paw print in the mud, which gave us all a little thrill. Even without big wildlife sightings, it was a lovely, peaceful walk in nature. In the evening we were treated to a traditional martial arts demonstration, another completely different but fascinating experience that rounded off our time in this region.

Kerala’s Backwaters: Rice Boats, Coconut Water and Kingfishers

On Day 7 we left the hills and headed down to the backwaters of Kumarakom. The journey took around four and a half hours, with plenty of time to admire the changing landscapes as we descended from the mountains. As we neared our destination, we swapped our air‑conditioned bus for a rice boat for the final 45‑minute stretch. Gliding along the water was instantly calming and gave us our first taste of life on the backwaters. On arrival at Coconut Lagoon we were greeted with smiles and refreshing coconut water, followed by yet another delicious lunch, before being shown to our rooms. That afternoon, the local “tea lady” arrived to serve chai, a sweet, milky, spiced tea that felt like the perfect afternoon ritual. In the early evening we headed back out on a rice boat for a gentle cruise along the backwaters, spotting numerous birds along the way, including my favourite, the vivid blue kingfisher. It is a wonderfully relaxing way to spend time, just watching local life unfold on the banks as the sun begins to set. The next morning I was up early for a swim at 7 am, as we were moving on again, this time to the coast for our final stop.

Coastal Calm at Marari Beach

Our last two nights were spent at Marari Beach Resort in Mararikulam, giving us some much‑needed downtime after a full and busy week. After an orientation tour of the hotel and a lunch at a neighbouring resort, Xandari Beach, we made the most of our free time by simply relaxing by the pool and enjoying the facilities. On our final evening our wonderful hosts at TBi surprised us all with traditional Keralan sarees, a beautiful and generous gesture. Local Keralan ladies from the hotel helped dress us, and I have to say we all looked amazing. It felt like such a special way to mark the end of our trip together. We squeezed in a last couple of hours relaxing by the pool before lunch, then it was time to begin the long journey home, full of memories and a deep appreciation for this very special part of India.

Why Kerala Stole My Heart

Kerala is the perfect destination if you want to experience India in what I would call a “soft” way. It feels gentler and less overwhelming than some of the more intense parts of the country, yet it offers so much variety. The people are incredibly friendly and smiley wherever you go. The food ranges from mild and fragrant to hot and spicy, so there is something for every palate. In one trip you can experience historic coastal towns, tea‑clad mountains, wildlife reserves, serene backwaters and golden beaches. The sounds, smells and scenery of Kerala are hard to capture fully in words. It is a place you really need to experience to understand its beauty and its calm, soulful energy. If you would like to know more about Kerala, or feel inspired to plan your own journey through this beautiful part of India, I would love to help you. Contact me to start planning your tailor‑made Kerala adventure, designed around exactly how you love to travel.