Expedition in the Arctic: Glaciers, Polar Bears and an Ice‑Cold Baileys Bar
From Svalbard, with Quark Expeditions
The Arctic has a way of getting under your skin. I feel so privileged to be asked asked to experience a Quark Expeditions voyage around Svalbard on the beautiful Ocean Explorer, and it was unlike any “cruise” I have ever experienced. This was true expedition travel: hiking across remote islands, cruising beneath towering glaciers, paddling under bird cliffs and watching polar bears, walrus and belugas in their natural habitat. Plans changed with the weather and the wildlife, but that was exactly the magic of it. This journey to the high Norwegian Arctic, has officially made me polar obsessed!
Journey to the Top of the World
The journey began with an uneventful flight to Helsinki, where I connected with a charter flight bound for Svalbard. What should have been a straightforward 3–4 hour hop turned into something far more memorable: 21 patient laps of the airport, a diversion back to Bodø to refuel, and a long wait for clearance as low cloud clung stubbornly to the world’s most northerly airport. Eventually, the skies lifted just enough and we were cleared to land in Longyearbyen, a tiny outpost at the edge of the Arctic. From there it was only a few minutes’ drive to the ship, where the adventure really began...
Life Onboard: My Veranda Suite Sanctuary
Boarding was quick and walking into my cabin, a Veranda Suite #434 was a real treat. Generously spacious with a double bed and a separate sitting area. One of my favourite features was the floor‑to‑ceiling glass that opened onto a private balcony where I enjoyed a coffee every morning wrapped up warm and feeling excited about the daily adventure ahead. Inside, the desk was great for journalling, plus the TV allowed you listen to the daily lectures, view maps and wildlife information when you didn’t fancy the communal area’s. The bathroom, was compact but perfectly designed with a heated floor, perfect for drying clothes after a day on the ice!
Glacier Highways and Zodiac Adventures
Each day began with breakfast between 07.30 - 8.30 and a briefing around what the rough plan was for the day, frequently adapting to fit the weather and wildlife!
Zodiac cruises took us deep into glacier‑lined fjords such as Conwaybreen in Kingsfjord, where towering ice walls, drifting bergs and a thousand shades of blue created an almost surreal backdrop. In these narrow inlets, the ship would anchor at a respectful distance while we explored in small groups, feeling dwarfed by ancient ice that has been locked up for centuries.
Kayaks, Cliffs and Tens of Thousands of Birds
In places like Alkefjellet, basalt cliffs soared over 100 metres high, alive with tens of thousands of nesting guillemots and kittiwakes. Paddling quietly beneath those sheer rock faces in a kayak, surrounded by the sound and movement of so many birds, was an experience I will never forget. Especially as we had barely been on the water five minutes when a polar bear was spotted too close for comfort. Within moments, our guides had us safely back in the zodiacs and observing from an appropriate distance instead. Later, with the bear moved on, we returned for a second, more leisurely paddle along the bird cliffs, fully appreciating just how special this location is.
Polar Bears, Walrus and Belugas on Nature’s Terms
Wildlife encounters were frequent and always on nature’s terms. We traced the northernmost reaches of Svalbard around Rossøya and the Sjuøysane archipelago, watching from AECO‑regulated distances as polar bears patrolled the ice and shores. At Isflaktbukta, our planned landing site was claimed instead by two bears and a whole group of walrus, noisily jostling for space along the beach and in the shallows. Rather than forcing a landing, the Captain and Bertie, our Expedition Leader, adjusted the course, moving further into Beverlysundet where we were able to get off the ship for an evening walk.
As our journey continued through the Hinlopen Strait, we were rewarded with sightings of beluga whales. This happened to coincide with a tour of the The Bridge, so we really did get a front row view!
Baileys on Ice: Arctic Bar & Life Onboard
For all the rawness of the environment, there were many moments of pure warmth and conviviality. Towards the end of the trip, as we explored the frozen grandeur of Conwaybreen, the team surprised us with a pop‑up Arctic bar: Baileys and hot chocolate served from zodiacs, glaciers and icebergs as the backdrop! Each evening the expert guides shared their knowledge on everything from geology, history mammals and birdlife, usually to coincide with whatever we had seen or done that day. We also enjoyed a BBQ on deck one evening, with plenty of wine, dancing and music, with a stunning backdrop of sea ice.
A dip in the ocean : The Polar Plunge
Said to be a rite of passage on any polar voyage, the polar plunge is utterly mad! The ship positioned itself in calm water and a small platform was set up at the aft, ready for the brave (or the foolish) to take the leap. Harnessed to a safety rope and cheered on by my fellow travellers and the ever-enthusiastic expedition team, there was no backing out. Despite the nerves and the very real knowledge that the water was sitting at around 0 degrees, I was the 5th person to jump. The feeling of euphoria having done it, was incredible. Fortunately the time from standing in your swimmers, to climbing out of the ocean is just a few short minutes, so there's no time to worry about it, and the post plunge vodka shot, definitely helped warm me back up! Was it crazy? Probably! Would I do it again? Absolutely!
I spent 8 incredible days on Ocean Explorer, seeing animals in their natural environment most people can only dream of. New friends were made, once in a lifetime experiences had, and I can't recommend Quark enough, true experts in the Polar Regions who surpassed any expectations I may have had 100 times over!
