Vietnamse Family Adventure

Hanoi: Chaos, Charm and Rooftop Cocktails

We kicked things off in Hanoi, and what a way to start.

The first rule of Hanoi: cross the roads with confidence and conviction. The traffic looks utterly wild, but somehow it just flows around you. Once you trust it, you quickly feel like you are part of the city’s rhythm.

A morning jeep tour was the perfect way to get under its skin. Instead of just ticking off the main sights, we bumped our way through back lanes and local neighbourhoods, seeing where people really live and work. We visited relics and a museum linked to the Vietnam War, which set the tone for the thoughtful, perspective‑shifting experiences that would run through our whole trip.

Of course, no visit to Hanoi is complete without Train Street. Squeezed between narrow houses, the railway line feels impossibly close. Watching the train roar past is both surreal and utterly thrilling.

Evenings in Hanoi had a completely different energy. The city is full of rooftop bars with relaxed music, great food and wide-open views of the skyline. After full-on days, sitting above the din with a cold drink in hand, looking out over twinkling lights, felt like the perfect way to soak it all in.

Next stop: the countryside.

Ninh Binh & Tam Coc: Limestone Peaks, Rice Fields and Jungle Magic

Leaving the capital behind, we travelled to Ninh Binh and nearby Tam Coc, often described as “Ha Long Bay on land”. The reputation is well deserved.

We glided along the Ngo Dong River, weaving between dramatic karst formations and along rice paddies, and it really was just as spectacular as the glossy photos suggest. This is Vietnam at its most cinematic: water, mountains and vivid green fields in every direction.

The climb up the steps at Mua Cave in the heat was no small task, especially with children, but the view from the top made every sweaty step worthwhile. Looking out over the river, the jagged peaks and the patchwork of fields below felt like standing inside a postcard.

We also visited the ancient capital of Hoa Lu. Peaceful, atmospheric and full of history, it gave us a glimpse into Vietnam’s dynastic past. After the buzz of Hanoi, the serenity here felt very special.

A Day in Cuc Phong National Park

Our time in Ninh Binh was crowned by a day trip to Cuc Phong National Park, which ended up being one of my absolute highlights of the entire journey.

We started with visits to wildlife conservation centres focused on endangered primates and turtles, learning about the challenges they face and the work being done to protect them. From there, we headed deeper into the rainforest for trekking and exploration.

This was a true “pinch me” experience: the soundscape of the jungle, the dense, humid air, and then the butterflies. At one point we were surrounded by them, drifting and dancing around us in the filtered light. It was spellbinding, and one of those moments when you feel very small in the best possible way.

Sleeper Train to Dong Hoi: Bowling Balls and Flashing Lights

From Ninh Binh, we boarded an overnight sleeper train to Dong Hoi, bound for the caves and countryside of central Vietnam.

Our 4‑berth cabin was basic but perfectly fine for a family adventure, and it did not take long for the journey to become part of the fun. The ride was bumpy, noisy and, in Duncan’s words, “like a bowling ball bouncing down the alley”, but watching Vietnam flash by outside in the dark, all bundled into our little compartment, felt incredibly exciting.

If you are travelling as a family, the sleeper trains are a brilliant way to add an extra layer of adventure between destinations.

Phong Nha: Farmstay Bliss and Cave Adventures

Arriving in Dong Hoi, we continued inland to Phong Nha, and this is where Vietnam really stole our hearts.

We stayed at the wonderfully quirky and relaxed Phong Nha Farmstay in a luxury two‑bed villa with its own private pool. The setting was idyllic: rice paddies all around, water buffalo grazing and mountains on the horizon. It felt as if we had our own little bubble in the countryside.

What made this place truly special, though, was the story and the hospitality. The farmstay sits on the ancestral land of the Vietnamese co‑owner, and together with her husband they have built something that feels both homely and quietly luxurious. The food was fabulous, the staff were warm and kind, and the atmosphere could not have been more laid‑back.

Our stay was interwoven with stories from the American War and how it impacted local families and communities. This added a powerful, personal layer to the beauty around us and made our time there even more meaningful. We only had two nights here, which was nowhere near enough. This is somewhere we are already plotting to return to.

Hue: Emperors, Incense and Quiet Reflection

From Phong Nha, our journey continued south to Hue, Vietnam’s former imperial capital, set along the romantically named Perfume River.

We spent a day exploring the sprawling Citadel and its Forbidden Purple City, once reserved for emperors and their court. Moss-covered walls, dragon-adorned gates, grand courtyards and hidden corners all combined to create a deep sense of history and faded grandeur.

We visited one of the Nguyen kings’ tombs, set in tranquil gardens with lakes and ornate pavilions. The intricate carvings and serene setting brought home the artistry, symbolism and spirituality of Vietnam’s imperial past.

A particularly poignant stop was the Eunuchs’ Cemetery. Small but powerful, it honours some of the people who served behind the palace walls. Wandering through the woodland, feeling the stillness and learning about the Feng Shui principles behind the site, I could have stayed there all day.

We also enjoyed a traditional Buddhist lunch at a pagoda, simple and delicious, which added another gentle, reflective note to our time in Hue.

In the back lanes of the city, we had a hands-on cultural experience making traditional incense sticks with local artisans. It was a fun, tactile way to connect with everyday life in Hue, and the children loved it.

Our base was a peaceful, five-star boutique resort and spa on the outskirts, which gave us a luxurious retreat to come back to after days of sightseeing. The service was impeccable and the atmosphere soothing, a lovely contrast to the heat and intensity of exploring.

DMZ & Vinh Moc: A Powerful Lesson in History

One of the most profound days of our trip was a day excursion from Hue focused on the American / Vietnam War and the former DMZ.

We set off in blistering heat for almost two hours to reach Quang Tri Ancient Citadel. Once the scene of fierce fighting and heavy bombardment, it is now a thoughtful memorial site. Walking the grounds, seeing the monuments and exhibits, we were reminded of the enormous human cost of war and the resilience of the Vietnamese people.

From there, we continued to the Vinh Moc Tunnels. At first glance, it looks like a quiet coastal village. Only when you descend under the surface do you discover the network of tunnels where entire communities once lived to survive the bombing above. Families spent years down there, babies were born in the tunnels, and daily life carried on in the dark.

Walking those narrow passageways with our children, seeing the tiny spaces where people slept, cooked and cared for each other, was incredibly humbling. It prompted so many important conversations as a family.

We also travelled into the DMZ to visit the 17th Parallel, the former dividing line between North and South Vietnam. Standing there, listening to the stories and looking out over what was once a heavily fortified border, brought history into sharp focus in a way no textbook ever could.

It was hot, emotional and thought‑provoking, but we were grateful our children could experience this side of Vietnam: not just the beaches and the food, but also the history, humanity and strength of its people.

If you would like to weave meaningful, educational days like this into your own Vietnam itinerary, it is very possible to do so in a family-friendly way.

An Bang & Hoi An: Beach Days, Cooking Classes and Coral Reefs

After the intensity and history of Hue, we slowed the pace down for the final chapter of our journey.

We drove over the scenic Hai Van Pass, stopping at a tranquil lagoon along the way. The water was mirror-calm, dotted with little fishing boats, and the whole scene felt like a deep breath out after so many busy days. It was a real “step away from the world” moment.

Our base for this stretch was a family‑friendly resort on An Bang Beach, a short distance from Hoi An. Our two‑bed villa came with its own private pool, which felt wonderfully indulgent and gave us the space to spread out and properly relax. The coastal breeze was a welcome relief after the inland heat, and our evenings quickly settled into an easy rhythm of simple, tasty meals and beachside cocktails with the sound of the waves in the background.

Cooking, Coconut Boats and Cham Islands

One of our standout experiences here was a full Vietnamese cooking day. We started at the local market, choosing fresh ingredients and soaking up the colours, smells and sounds. Then we hopped into a coconut boat along the waterways to reach the cooking school, which the kids thought was fantastic fun.

At the school we rolled up our sleeves and got properly stuck in, from pounding rice and water to make our own rice pancakes to learning all the little tips and tricks that elevate Vietnamese dishes from tasty to spectacular. Sitting down together at the end to eat what we had created was enormously satisfying.

We also squeezed in a snorkelling trip to the Cham Islands, which felt like swimming through a tropical aquarium. The sea life was superb: vibrant corals and colourful fish, some of the best we have ever seen. It was the ideal dash of extra adventure between pool time and beach lazing.

Ho Chi Minh City: Scooters, Street Food and a Final Feast

To wrap up, we hopped on a short flight down to Ho Chi Minh City for one last night.

There is only one way to really throw yourself into Saigon’s energy: we joined a moped food tour. Clinging on (securely!) on the back of scooters, we zig‑zagged through the city’s famously crazy traffic, stopping at tiny, authentic eateries and local beer spots that we would never have found on our own.

Dish after dish appeared: fresh, flavourful, sometimes mysterious but always delicious. It ended up being some of the best food of the entire trip and was a fittingly fun and filling finale to our Vietnamese adventure.

The next day, it was time to point ourselves towards home. There were definitely some sad faces at the airport.