Atacama

Chile: from vineyard stays and Atacama to Patagonia and the Lake District

Karen Munro on 18 Oct 2023

If you like the idea of a trip with real variety and plenty of time outdoors, Chile works brilliantly. Vineyard stays, high desert, big Patagonian landscapes and quieter lake scenery all fit together here in a way that feels natural rather than rushed. I travelled through Chile on a 12 night trip with a small group of fellow Latin America specialists, starting at Santa Rita vineyard at the foot of the Andes, then continuing north to the Atacama Desert, south to Torres del Paine in Patagonia and finally to the Lake District, staying at Hotel AWA on the shores of Lake Llanquihue. It was a really satisfying mix of walking, scenery and good food, with Explora lodges in Atacama and Patagonia and two very different but equally memorable stays at the start and end. This is the story of how that route worked in practice and what it actually felt like to experience Chile in that way.

How it began: Santa Rita vineyard

We did not stay in central Santiago. Instead we went straight out to Santa Rita vineyard at the foot of the Andes. It was a much calmer way to arrive.

The estate has history, space to walk and, of course, wine. We wandered through the grounds, tasted different varieties and had time to adjust without busy streets or big city traffic. It also meant we started the trip already surrounded by vines and mountains, which set the tone for what followed.

Santa Rita

It felt relaxed but not idle: you are still learning about Chile, just at an easy pace.

Atacama: a very different side of Chile

From Santa Rita we flew north to Calama and drove on to San Pedro de Atacama. It is hard to compare Atacama to anywhere else I have been.

The town

The first thing you notice is the light and the space. The air is dry, the colours are clear and suddenly everything is wide open. Over a few days we saw a good cross‑section of the area: salt flats, high‑altitude lagoons, small villages, geysers and the more “classic” desert scenery.

A few things that really stayed with me:

  • Walking in the Valle de la Luna and watching the light change on the rock and sand in the evening.
  • Driving up through Toconao and Socaire to reach the lagoons, and realising how high we had climbed when we stepped out of the vehicle.
  • The stillness around the salt flats, broken only by the sound of birds feeding.
  • Standing at the Tatio geysers early in the morning with steam all around us, waiting for the sun to hit.

There is altitude and some early starts, so it helps if you are comfortable with that, but in return you see a side of Chile that looks and feels completely different to the rest of the itinerary.

Salt pan

Patagonia: walking in Torres del Paine

From the north we flew right down to Puerto Natales and continued on to Explora Patagonia, looking out towards the lakes and peaks of Torres del Paine.

This section was very focused on being outside. Each evening we would look at the options for the next day and choose from a range of guided walks and excursions, from longer treks towards the base of the towers to shorter routes to viewpoints, lakes and forest. There was always something that matched how much energy you had, which worked well for a mixed group.

The weather is a big part of the experience here. It changed quickly and often. We had clear spells with great visibility and other times when the clouds rolled in and the wind picked up. A planned boat trip to get closer to one of the glaciers had to be cancelled because conditions simply were not safe. That was disappointing in the moment, but also a useful reminder that this is a genuine wilderness, not somewhere you can timetable exactly.

Torres del Paine

What I enjoyed most was the rhythm: heading out on the trails, stopping often just to look around, and then returning to the lodge for a hot shower, a drink in the bar and dinner. You end the day pleasantly tired which makes it easier to string several active days together.

Lake District: softer scenery, still active

We ended the trip in the Lake District, flying up to Puerto Montt and continuing to Hotel AWA on Lake Llanquihue, with Osorno volcano across the water.

After Patagonia, the area felt softer but still very outdoorsy. We had a guided day that linked Osorno and the Petrohué Falls, so we could see how the lakes, forest and volcano fit together. The falls cut through old lava, and the views back across the lake from higher up the volcano showed just how much landscape is packed into a relatively small area.

Volcano

Hotel AWA itself was a lovely base: right on the lake, with big views and an easy drive into Puerto Varas if you wanted a change of scene. We also had time simply to be around the hotel and lakeshore. You can do as much or as little as you like here: walk, take a short bike ride, or head into the surrounding countryside for more active options. It is a good place to end the trip because you are still out and about, but the pace is easier

Why this route works:

Visiting Santa Rita, Atacama, Torres del Paine and the Lake District in that order worked well for a few reasons:

  • You start gently, with wine and mountain views, rather than diving straight into a big city or a tough hike.
  • Atacama gives you a complete change of pace and scenery without being physically intense all the time.
  • Patagonia sits in the middle, when you are ready for more walking and do not mind a bit of weather.
  • The Lake District rounds things off with something greener and calmer, but still with plenty to do.

Travel days are definitely part of it, but with well‑timed flights and organised transfers they did not take over. The combination of Explora lodges in Atacama and Patagonia, plus Santa Rita and Hotel AWA at either end, meant there was always somewhere comfortable and well run to return to after being out during the day.

Thinking about your own Chile trip?

If you like the idea of seeing more than one side of Chile, this kind of route is a good starting point. You do not have to copy it exactly. You might decide you want to spend longer in one area, travel more slowly, or link Chile with somewhere else in South America.

My job is to take what you actually enjoy doing day‑to‑day, how active you want to be and how long you have, then put together something that fits, rather than a fixed template.

If this has given you ideas and you would like to talk through what might work for your own Chile trip, I would be very happy to help you shape it

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