Douro Valley & Salamanca: discovering Portugal’s golden river

Getting there – an easy start to Porto

I start the trip with the train from Alfreton to Manchester Airport and immediately wonder why I have not done this before. It is so simple: a quick change at Manchester Piccadilly, step off one train and straight onto the next.

True to form, I arrive at the airport far too early, thanks to my deep mistrust of public transport. Eventually I meet some lovely fellow travel agents at the gate and we fly with easyJet to Porto. The flight is smooth, no delays, and my case is sporting its usual bright orange “heavy” tag.

Some things never change.

First impressions: Porto and our river ship

After landing in Porto, we head straight to our floating hotel for the week: the five‑star river ship Riviera Rose, which is taking us through the heart of Portugal’s wine region.

Riviera Rose feels elegant and calm. The interiors are stylish without being fussy, the crew are warm and welcoming, and my cabin has a French balcony looking straight out over the river. It immediately feels like “my” space.

 

Our flight arrives too late for the main dinner service, but we are not sent to bed hungry. A lovely buffet is laid out in Rio, the intimate alternative restaurant on the sun deck. After a long travel day, being able to sit down with a plate of food and a glass of something cold feels like a hug.

 

Porto – colour, tiles and charm

Our first full day includes a guided tour of Porto and I fall for it very quickly.

Colourful houses stack up the steep hillsides, tiled facades catch the light, and the narrow cobbled streets seem to twist in every direction. Everywhere I look there is another little balcony or blue‑and‑white tile panel to photograph.

 

That evening we head out to Quinta da Pacheca, a beautiful wine estate. We tour the cellars, taste the wines and then sit down to a fabulous dinner followed by dancing. The setting is gorgeous, the wine flows freely and the atmosphere is just… happy. It feels like one of those classic “I am so glad I do this job” moments.

 

Cruising through the Douro Valley

For the next few days we sail deeper into the Douro Valley and I realise that no photograph I have seen comes close to doing it justice.

 

From the top deck I am looking out at terraced vineyards carving lines into the hillsides, tiny white chapels, sleepy villages and olive trees. The light changes constantly and every bend in the river reveals another “wow” view.

 

One of my favourite stops is Castelo Rodrigo, a medieval hilltop village that really does feel as if time has stood still. Stone houses, narrow lanes and huge views across the countryside – it is perfect for a slow wander and a bit of quiet.

 

A day out in Salamanca, Spain

Midweek we cross the border into Spain for a full‑day excursion to Salamanca.

It is around two hours by coach each way, which sounds long on paper, but once I am there I forget all about the journey.

Salamanca is known as the golden city and I instantly see why. When the sun hits the sandstone buildings, everything glows. Our relaxed walking tour takes us through Plaza Mayor, past the university buildings and into the cathedral.

Then comes one of the highlights of the week: a tapas lunch with live flamenco. The food is delicious, the music and dancing are electric, and the whole room feels alive. After a glass of sangria and some very enthusiastic foot‑tapping from our table, the coach ride back does not feel long at all.

 

Wine, culture and Fado nights

Back onboard, the experiences keep coming.

At Quinta da Avessada, a winery packed with personality, we are welcomed with open arms. The food is hearty, the wine is generous and the hosts are loud, funny and full of stories. It feels wonderfully authentic and a little bit chaotic in the best way.

We also visit the gardens at Mateus Palace, which look like something from a storybook: manicured hedges, fountains, statues and beautifully kept flowerbeds. Later, in Vila Nova de Gaia, we fit in one last wine tasting. When in Portugal, it would be rude not to.

 

Our final evening onboard includes a farewell dinner with live Fado music. The songs are soulful and full of emotion, and it feels like exactly the right way to say goodbye to the river.

 

Locks on the Douro – my inner “lock geek” is very happy

A couple of weeks before this trip I watch Jane McDonald tackle the Douro’s biggest lock on TV, so I am determined to pay attention when we go through them.

By the end of the week, I have fully become a lock geek.

 

In simple terms: the ship sails into a big concrete chamber, the gates close, water either fills or drains to match the river level ahead, and then the gates open and out you go. When you are standing on deck, watching the walls rise (or sink) around you, it is genuinely fascinating.

There are five locks along this route and, because we start and finish in Porto, we go through each one twice. I find myself standing at the rails every time, watching the crew position the ship with incredible precision. It is part engineering, part choreography.

 

Final thoughts

Now that I am home, the Douro Valley really stands out in my mind.

The scenery is breathtaking, the pace onboard is relaxed and the itinerary balances culture, food, wine and plenty of time to simply sit on deck and watch the world go by. It feels different from the Rhine or Danube – more intimate, a little wilder in places, and very full of character.

If you have already done one or two river cruises, the Douro gives you something refreshingly new. If it is your first river cruise, it is a beautiful place to start.

And because I have now slept in the cabins, eaten the food, walked through the villages and geeked out over every lock, the Douro is a river I know I will be talking about – and thinking about – for a long time to come.