I Finally Tried a River Cruise – Here's What I Thought About the Douro

An Easy Start from Derbyshire to Porto

Living in Derbyshire, I know plenty of people worry that flying from Manchester means a stressful start to their holiday. I was pleasantly surprised.

I caught the train from Alfreton with just one simple change at Manchester Piccadilly, where it was literally a case of stepping off one train and onto another.

Of course, true to form, I arrived ridiculously early because I have a deep mistrust of public transport deciding to behave itself on the one day I need it! Naturally, everything ran perfectly, giving me plenty of time for coffee before meeting the rest of our group.

Before long we were boarding our EasyJet flight to Porto, my suitcase easily recognisable thanks to its rather loud bright orange luggage tag. (if you know, you know)

 

First Impressions of Riviera Rose

After landing in Porto and transferring to the ship, my first glimpse of Riviera Rose was one of those moments that instantly told me this was going to be a special week.

I'd already visited several river ships during the CLIA River Cruise Conference in Amsterdam, but actually sailing as a guest was a completely different experience.

The ship immediately felt elegant without being intimidating. The décor was beautifully understated, the welcome from the crew genuinely warm, and my cabin with its French balcony quickly became my favourite place to watch the world drift past.

Although our flight arrived too late for the main dinner service, the crew had thoughtfully prepared a buffet in Rio, the intimate alternative restaurant on the sun deck. It was a small touch, but one that immediately demonstrated the level of service we'd enjoy throughout the week.

 

 

Porto – A City Full of Character

Our first full day began with a guided tour of Porto.

This city is full of colourful buildings, steep cobbled streets and those beautiful blue and white tiles you see in so many photographs. It’s a city with loads of character.  

That evening, we visited Quinta da Pacheca, one of Portugal's best-known wine estates.

After learning about the winery and sampling some of its wines, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner followed by an evening of music and dancing. The setting was magical, the wine flowed generously, and there was plenty of laughter around the tables.

It was the perfect introduction to Portuguese hospitality.

 

Falling in Love with the Douro Valley

The following days were spent cruising through the Douro Valley, and this is where I completely understood why so many people fall in love with this river.

Every bend in the river seemed to reveal another beautiful view. Hillsides covered in vineyards stretched as far as the eye could see, with traditional villages dotted along the riverbanks.

I took far more photos than I probably needed to, but every so often I'd put my phone down for a few minutes and simply enjoy the view, these photos are beautiful, but they simply can't capture the scale of the valley or the peaceful feeling of gently sailing through it.

One of our favourite excursions took us to Castelo Rodrigo, a wonderfully preserved medieval village sitting high above the surrounding countryside.

Walking through its ancient streets genuinely felt like stepping back in time. There was no rush—just time to wander, admire the views and soak up centuries of history.

 

Life on Board Riviera Rose

One of the biggest surprises for me was just how relaxing river cruising really is.

Unlike ocean cruises, where there can be long sea days or busy embarkation ports, life on the Douro settles into a wonderfully gentle rhythm.

You might spend the morning exploring a fascinating town, enjoy lunch while sailing through spectacular scenery, then arrive somewhere completely different for another excursion later in the day.

There was never any sense of rushing from one place to another. The whole week just seemed to flow.

Meals quickly became something to look forward to, with beautifully presented dishes, attentive service, and plenty of opportunities to sample local Portuguese wines. Whether it was breakfast while watching the vineyards drift past or dinner after another memorable day ashore, every meal felt like part of the experience.

Another thing that really surprised me was how friendly the atmosphere was. Because there are fewer guests than on an ocean cruise, you soon start recognising people and chatting over breakfast, at dinner or while watching the scenery from the sun deck. It never felt cliquey or forced – just relaxed and genuinely welcoming. Whether you wanted to join in or simply enjoy a quiet moment with a coffee and the view, you could do exactly that.

By this point, I completely understood why so many people become hooked on river cruising.

 

Salamanca – Worth Every Mile

Midway through the cruise we crossed into Spain for a full-day excursion to Salamanca.

I'll be honest...

When I first heard it involved around two hours on the coach each way, I wondered if it would be worth it.

It absolutely was.

Known as the Golden City because of its beautiful sandstone buildings, Salamanca almost glows in the sunshine.

Our guided walking tour took in the magnificent Plaza Mayor and the impressive cathedral before we enjoyed one of my favourite experiences of the entire trip.

A traditional tapas lunch accompanied by live flamenco dancing.

The food was delicious, the atmosphere infectious and, after a glass of sangria, there was certainly plenty of enthusiastic foot tapping around the room.

The journey back to the ship passed surprisingly quickly after that.

Portuguese Hospitality at Its Best

Back in Portugal, the memorable experiences continued.

At Quinta da Avessada, we were welcomed with enormous warmth, generous wine tastings, and a traditional Portuguese lunch full of local flavours.

Rather than feeling like a tourist attraction, it felt like spending time with people who were genuinely proud to share their traditions and hospitality.

We also explored the beautiful gardens of Mateus Palace, with their elegant statues, fountains, and perfectly manicured hedges, before returning to Vila Nova de Gaia for one final wine tasting.

Well... it would have been rude not to!

Our final evening onboard ended with a farewell dinner accompanied by traditional Fado music. After such a wonderful week, it felt like the perfect way to say goodbye to Portugal.

 

Confessions of a Lock Geek

I never imagined I'd become fascinated by locks.....but here we are!

A couple of weeks before travelling, I'd watched Jane McDonald experience the Douro's famous locks on television and couldn't wait to see them for myself.

By the end of the cruise, I'd become a complete lock geek.

Watching the nautical crew expertly guide the ship into what looked like impossibly narrow spaces was fascinating. Once inside, the huge gates closed behind us before millions of litres of water either filled or emptied the lock, gently raising or lowering the ship to the next level of the river.

It's an incredible feat of engineering and something I never got tired of watching.

What makes this itinerary even more special is that you don't just experience the locks once.

Because the cruise starts and finishes in Porto, you sail through all five of the Douro's locks on the way upstream, then through all five again on the return journey.

That's ten lock transits in total.

Every single transit was different. Sometimes I'd be on the sun deck watching the towering lock walls rise above us, other times I'd head to the bow to watch the crew expertly position the ship with incredible precision.

It quickly became one of my favourite parts of the cruise.

I never thought I'd find myself abandoning whatever I was doing  just to watch another lock operation....yet somehow, I did every single time!

 

 

Five Things I Didn't Expect About a Douro River Cruise

1. I'd become fascinated by locks!
I honestly never imagined I'd be so interested in them, but watching the crew expertly guide the ship through all five locks on the Douro was surprisingly addictive. Even better, because the cruise starts and finishes in Porto, you sail through all five locks twice – that's ten lock transits in total.

2. The scenery really is better than the photos.
I know everyone says that, but in this case it's true. The terraced vineyards seem to go on forever, tiny villages appear around every bend, and there are moments when the only sound is the gentle splash of the river beneath the ship.

3. Salamanca was absolutely worth the coach journey.
When I first heard it was around two hours each way, I wondered whether it would be worth it. It was. The city is stunning, and the tapas lunch with live flamenco dancing became one of the highlights of the entire cruise.

4. River cruising is incredibly relaxing.
I'd visited river ships before, but actually spending a week onboard was a completely different experience. There's no rushing from place to place, no packing and unpacking, and everything happens at a wonderfully gentle pace.

5. Portugal's wines are so much more than Port.
Yes, there was plenty of Port to sample, but I also discovered some fantastic local wines that I'd happily drink again. Visiting the wineries and meeting the people behind them made every tasting feel that little bit more special.

 

 

Would I Recommend It?

Absolutely.

Before this trip, I'd visited plenty of river ships but had never actually experienced a river cruise for myself. I came home understanding exactly why so many people fall in love with this style of travel.

If you're looking for spectacular scenery, excellent food and wine, fascinating excursions and a holiday that encourages you to slow down and enjoy the journey, the Douro is hard to beat.

If you've already cruised the Rhine or Danube, I think you'll love how different the Douro feels. It's quieter, warmer, less commercial, and wonderfully authentic.

And if you're considering your very first river cruise, I honestly can't think of a better place to start.

What this trip has given me is something I couldn't get from a brochure or a ship visit. I've now experienced it all for myself. From the cabins and excursions to the food, wines and even those ten unforgettable lock transits, I can help you decide whether this is the right river cruise for you.

So, if the Douro has sparked your curiosity, whether you're wondering which cabin to choose, when to travel or simply whether river cruising is right for you, I'd love to help.

So, what did I think of my very first river cruise?

Let’s just say the next one is booked, but I’m open to your suggestions for the third one.