Four Nights in Palermo: Mafia Stories & Seaside Moments
Italy
I spent four nights in Palermo and quickly discovered a city full of contrasts: gritty and grand, intense and welcoming, with stories at every turn.
Most of my time was spent on foot, wandering the historic centre around Quattro Canti and Piazza Pretoria, slipping into side streets and lively markets. Stalls piled high with tomatoes, lemons and freshly caught fish became my backdrop, with irresistible street food like arancine and panelle as regular “snacks”.
One of the most memorable moments was a guided walking tour focused on the mafia and Palermo’s fight against it. Led by a local, it gave a powerful insight into the city’s past and the courage of those who stood up to organised crime. It completely changed how I saw Palermo, adding real depth to the beautiful facades and busy streets.
There was still plenty of time simply to enjoy Sicilian life: morning espresso at pavement cafés, evening aperitivi as locals strolled past, and more cannoli than I’m willing to admit.
I also escaped the city for a day trip to Cefalù, a gorgeous seaside town with a sweep of golden sand, a dramatic rocky backdrop and a charming medieval centre. It was the perfect contrast to Palermo: slower, softer and ideal for a long lunch by the sea.
