South Island Dreaming Part II
South Island
Part II of my South Island escorted tour - with AAT Kings
After easing into my South Island adventure with Christchurch, Arthur's Pass, Franz Josef, dreamy lakes and gold-rush towns, it was time for the next chapter: Queenstown, Milford Sound, glow-worm caves, royal albatrosses and some of the clearest night skies I've ever seen.
Queenstown
Queenstown may be known as New Zealand's adventure capital, but don't worry if throwing yourself off a bridge isn't your idea of a holiday. On our free day, I happily embraced what I'd call "soft adventure" – and I wouldn't have changed a thing.
My perfect Queenstown reset included a floating sauna on the lake, alternating between blissful warmth and crisp alpine air, with mountains providing the most incredible backdrop. Afterwards came a leisurely lakeside lunch, followed by a tasting of Central Otago wines, which more than lived up to their outstanding reputation.
That's what I loved most about Queenstown. It suits everyone. You can spend the day bungy jumping, jet boating and mountain biking, or slow the pace with spas, vineyards and scenic walks. There really is no right or wrong way to experience it.
Milford Sound – Nature Showing Off
From Queenstown we travelled to the legendary Milford Sound, and this is where New Zealand really starts showing off.
Photographs simply don't prepare you for the scale. Towering cliffs rise almost vertically from dark, mirror-like water, waterfalls tumble from impossible heights and every direction feels like another postcard.
Our cruise brought plenty of unforgettable moments. We watched New Zealand fur seals basking lazily on the rocks before squabbling over the best sunbathing spots, cruised so close to one waterfall that we enjoyed an unexpected glacial facial, and took what felt like hundreds of "last" photos… before taking just one more.
We all agreed the combination of mountain air and waterfall spray probably knocked ten years off us. Certainly cheaper than a spa day, and with far better views.
Te Anau – Slow Down and Look Up
From Milford we continued to Te Anau, a peaceful lakeside town that instantly encourages you to slow down.
During the day it's wonderfully relaxed, but after dark it becomes something quite special.
A visit to the glow-worm caves felt almost surreal as we drifted silently through the darkness beneath thousands of tiny shimmering lights, like a hidden underground galaxy.
Back above ground, the night sky put on an equally spectacular display. The Milky Way stretched across the sky in remarkable clarity, and it quickly became obvious why this
region is famous for its stargazing. Keep looking up—you may even be lucky enough to spot the Aurora Australis, the Southern Lights.
Te Anau felt like one long, deep breath. Quiet, peaceful and utterly magical.
Dunedin – A Little Slice of Scotland
Our next stop was Dunedin, where Scottish heritage meets vibrant university life.
Its grand historic buildings and steep streets immediately reminded me of Edinburgh, while the cafés, bars and lively atmosphere gave the city a youthful energy. It has a slightly bohemian feel that's perfect for wandering without much of a plan, stopping for coffee, browsing independent shops and simply watching the world go by.
Taiaroa Head – Wildlife at Its Best
The drive along the Otago Peninsula was spectacular, but Taiaroa Head was another real highlight.
This is home to the world's only mainland breeding colony of Royal Albatross. Watching these magnificent birds glide effortlessly on enormous wingspans, barely flapping as they ride the wind currents, was something I'll never forget.
Below them, New Zealand fur seals lounged across the rocks, snoozing in the sunshine before occasionally flopping into the sea. They've clearly mastered the art of complete relaxation.
Omarama – The Biggest Sky
Our final overnight stop was Omarama, where the biggest attraction arrives after sunset.
As darkness fell, stars gradually filled the sky until it seemed almost impossible to find an empty patch. Spotting the Southern Cross was surprisingly easy, and the constellations appeared so sharp they almost felt within reach.
It's one of those places where you naturally spend more time looking upwards than at your phone.
Lake Tekapo – Saving the Best Until Last
Our final drive back towards Christchurch included one last showstopper: Lake Tekapo.
The water really is that extraordinary milky turquoise you've seen in photographs. Framed by snow-capped mountains, colourful wildflowers and the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd, it's every bit as beautiful as people say.
As we made the final journey back to Christchurch, swapping photographs, favourite memories and contact details with our new friends, one thing became very clear.
I will absolutely return to New Zealand—but next time I'll allow myself much longer to explore this remarkable corner of the world.
A Huge Thank You to AAT Kings
I genuinely can't praise AAT Kings enough. Everything about this tour was exceptionally well organised, from the pacing to the experiences and the local knowledge shared along the way. It never felt rushed or like we were simply ticking off landmarks.
A special thank you goes to our wonderful Tour Director, Tamara, for keeping us organised, informed and laughing throughout the journey, and to Simon, our brilliant driver, for safely navigating countless winding roads while looking after both us and our lovely coach, Miranda.
Together, they helped make this an unforgettable journey.
If New Zealand has found its way onto your travel wish list after reading this, I'd love to help you plan your own adventure. Whether you'd prefer the ease of an escorted tour, the freedom of a self-drive itinerary, or a combination of both, I can help create a trip that's tailored entirely to you.
After all, the very best holidays aren't just about seeing new places—they're about creating memories you'll still be talking about years later.