CHURCHILL, CANADA: The Polar Bear Capital of the World

A SUB-ARCTIC ADVENTURE LIKE NO OTHER

I have been lucky enough to enjoy some incredible trips over the years, but my most recent expedition to northern Canada completely blew my mind.  So much wildlife.  And the surprising part for me as an expedition cruise addict was that it was a land based expedition.

This was not a traditional expedition cruise taking in several destinations on one journey. Instead, I travelled north to one of North America’s remotest little towns, Churchill in Manitoba, famously known as the Polar Bear Capital of the World. Here, on the shores of Hudson Bay, I got to experience just how wild, beautiful and raw this corner of Canada really is.

We were based at Lazy Bear Lodge, joining a land‑based programme with Lazy Bear Expeditions and heading out each day on different immersive activities. Every day brought a new way to experience the sub-Arctic environment, its wildlife and its people.

DAY 1: EXPLORING HUDSON BAY BY ZODIAC

One of our first adventures was heading out on a zodiac cruise into Hudson Bay in search of polar bears and beluga whales. Bundled up in layers, bouncing over the waves in the fresh Arctic air, it felt incredibly real and a little bit edge‑of‑your‑seat.

There is a real sense of anticipation as you scan the horizon and the shoreline, looking for that tell‑tale movement.  As it happens we'd already seen our first polar bear before we'd even checked into the lodge so we were super excited to see more....and we weren't disappointed.  Polar bears were in abundance and off land we were surrounded by the smooth backs of beluga whales breaking the surface.

Being so low to the water in a zodiac brings you wonderfully close to the action, while still respecting the wildlife and keeping a safe distance. It was the perfect introduction to Churchill and the Hudson Bay.

DAY 2: EXPEDITION CRUISING ON THE MATONABEE

Another highlight was an expedition cruise out on the Hudson Bay aboard the Matonabee. This felt more like a classic expedition experience, but on a much more intimate scale. We glided through the bay, scanning the shoreline and ice for wildlife, with expert guides keeping us informed and entertained.

It was incredible listening to the belugas under the ship through a hydrophone. Hearing their clicks, whistles and chatty calls echoing through the speakers while knowing they were swimming right beneath us was just amazing.  It adds a whole new dimension compared to simply seeing them at the surface.

We also spotted many polar bears using the water to cool off, slipping in and out of the bay, or lounging on the rocks. Watching such powerful animals in their natural environment, behaving exactly as they choose, is both humbling and exhilarating.

DAY 3: DOG MUSHING THROUGH THE BOREAL FOREST

This trip was not only about the coast. We also had the chance to head inland and go summer dog mushing through the boreal forest. Racing along behind a team of enthusiastic dogs, with the trees closing in around us and that crisp Arctic air on our faces, was pure joy.

What made the experience even richer was hearing about the local indigenous cultures and their deep connection to the land, the seasons and the animals. Stories, traditions and lived experience brought the landscape to life in a completely different way. It is one thing to admire the scenery; it is another to understand how people have thrived here for generations.

DAY 4: AQUAGLIDING WITH BELUGA WHALES

If you are wondering what “aqua gliding” is, it is one of the most unique wildlife experiences I have ever had. You lie on a floating platform towed gently through the water, wearing a wetsuit and snorkel, and you watch as curious belugas swim underneath and around you and get up close and personal to your mask.

Seeing these beautiful, intelligent whales from the water, rather than just from a boat, feels incredibly intimate. They move so gracefully, often in family groups, and we were lucky to see many babies.   You are just there, quietly observing, listening to your own breathing and the sounds of the water, as these ghostly white shapes glide past. It is utterly unforgettable.

DAY 5: EXPLORATION BY ARCTIC TUNDRA VEHICLE

Our final day in Churchill saw us exploring the Arctic tundra and again we were not disappointed.  Bears and their babies were in abundance.  Over the course of our trip we were blessed to see 24 polar bears - our expedition guides had told us this was a record for the season so far.  And the weather was truly incredible - a balmy 18 degrees with plenty sunshine - warmer than back home in Edinburgh.

NIGHT MAGIC WITH THE NORTHERN LIGHTS

As if polar bears, belugas and dog mushing were not enough, Churchill also gifted us the Northern Lights - completely unexpected .  Standing under a vast Arctic sky, watching ribbons of green and sometimes pinkish light appear, shift and dance overhead, was just magical.

PRE AND POST EXPEDITION

It's a long way to go to Churchill which we accessed via Winnipeg  - a pretty city with a really interesting indigenous culture.  We bookended our trip with time in Niagara to experience the sheer power and beauty of the Falls and experience the myriad of wineries surrounding one of Canada's pretties towns Niagara-on-the-Lake.  Then post tour we had some city time  in Toronto wandering around the historic Distillery District with its cobbled streets, galleries and independent shops and then browsing around St Lawrence Market.  We topped it all off with some time at the beach in the gorgeous Beaches District. 

READY TO PLAN YOUR OWN POLAR BEAR AND BELUGA ADVENTURE?

This trip felt incredibly rich: a land‑based sub-Arctic expedition in Churchill with polar bears, belugas, dog mushing and northern lights, framed by the drama of Niagara Falls, the charm of wine country and the buzz of Toronto.

Ready to build a truly “wow” Canadian adventure, then I would love to help you design your very own adventure.  Just get in touch.  And check out my highlights on my instagram account @the.best.journey.yet to see incredible videos and photos of bears and belugas.