When to go: the secret of the seasons

Most UK visitors travel to Australia during our winter, which is the southern summer (roughly November to April). That is exactly when Darwin is at its least appealing: it is the Wet Season, with up to 400 mm of rain a month and humidity at around 80%. Think steamy, sticky, tropical storms. Impressive to experience once, but not ideal for relaxed sightseeing.

TNQ doesn’t experience quite such extremes and can be lovely year-round, but if you want the sweet spot for both regions, aim for the Dry Season. In July and August, both have clear blue skies, very little rain, low humidity and temperatures reach around 30°C in Darwin and 25°C in Cairns.

So, if you are looking for a summer holiday with a twist, where it is warm but not sweltering and the landscapes feel genuinely wild and different, Northern Australia is calling!

Is this the right trip for you?

This trip is ideal if you want to experience:

• The real Australian Outback feel, far from the big cities.
• Thundering waterfalls and crystal-clear waterholes.
• Ancient, World Heritage–listed Indigenous rock art.
• Dense, living rainforest and dramatic gorges.
• Crocodiles, wallabies, wallaroos and a dazzling array of birdlife.
• Space, silence and huge skies.

It is not the holiday for you if your heart is set on:

• Big city buzz and nightlife.
• Iconic skylines and gleaming modern architecture.
• Opera houses and symphony orchestras.

If you love nature, culture and a more easy-going pace, you will be in your element.

Darwin and The Top End: relaxed, raw and unforgettable

Darwin sits on a peninsula overlooking the Timor Sea, and it has one of the most beautiful shorelines I have ever seen. When I first moved into an apartment on the Darwin Esplanade, I used to open the curtains every morning and literally catch my breath: endless turquoise water and sky, often with the faintest pink glow from the sunrise.

One of Darwin’s iconic experiences is the Mindil Beach Sunset Market. Imagine over 300 stalls lining the beachfront, street food from all over the world, musicians and performers adding to the atmosphere and everyone drifting down to the sand with their dinner to watch the sun melt into the ocean. It is wonderfully relaxed, sociable and very Darwin.

Outside the markets, Darwin’s food scene is surprisingly good for a small city. You will find fresh seafood, lots of Asian-inspired dishes (thanks to strong links with Southeast Asia) and a mix of casual eateries, cool bars and some excellent fine-dining restaurants.

One thing you quickly learn in the Top End is to respect the wildlife, especially saltwater crocodiles. Despite the gorgeous beaches, it is generally not safe to swim in the sea along this coastline. The good news:

• There is a man-made swimming lagoon at Darwin Waterfront, monitored and safe year-round.
• During the Dry Season, some designated beaches are patrolled and opened for swimming.
• There are two brilliant free waterparks, and almost all hotels have pools.
• Out in the national parks, you will find incredible natural pools and waterfalls where swimming is allowed only once rangers have confirmed they are croc-free.

When we lived there, we never risked swimming in the open sea, and I always recommend the same caution to clients. The guidelines are clear and well signposted, and if you follow them, you can relax and enjoy the water safely. TNQ has significantly less crocodiles than the Northern Territory, and although you still need to be mindful of crocodile warnings, you can enjoy swimming in the Coral Sea all year round.

What really sets both the Top End and TNQ apart is the combination of Indigenous culture, dramatic national parks and unique wildlife. Across the whole of the north, Indigenous-run tours give you the chance to learn about the land from its traditional custodians, hear stories that have been passed down for countless generations, visit ancient rock art sites and support local communities by buying authentic Aboriginal art and crafts.

The national parks of the Top End are simply extraordinary:

• Kakadu National Park:
• World-famous Aboriginal rock art.
• Towering waterfalls and lush billabongs.
• Wetlands teeming with birdlife.
• Big, cinematic scenery that feels like something from a film.



• Litchfield National Park:
• Beautiful, easily accessible swimming holes and waterfalls.
• Extraordinary magnetic termite mounds, up to 2 metres high and all aligned north–south.



• Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge:
• A series of dramatic sandstone gorges carved by the Katherine River.
• Boat cruises, canoe trips and walking trails.
• Nearby, you will also find limestone caves, hot springs and jungle walks.

The danger posed by saltwater crocs is very real as they are extremely intelligent and entirely lethal, but they remain a fascination for anyone visiting the region. You can see crocs in their natural habitat on various river cruises, as well as in a number of crocodile nature parks in Darwin. Kangaroos aren’t found in the Top End, but there is an abundance of wallabies and wallaroos, which are easily seen as you travel through the national parks. I am not a bird-watcher, but even I was bowled over by the myriad birds in and around Darwin: black and white cockatoos, ibis, jabiru, black kites, lorikeets and more.

Cairns and Tropical North Queensland: ancient, vibrant and untamed

On the other side of the north coast, Cairns is the gateway to TNQ. It is a small, friendly city on the Coral Sea, surrounded by mountains and rainforest, and it has a very easy-going, holiday feel with great restaurants and hotels lining its beautiful shore.

We chose to stay in Palm Cove on our visit, one of the laid-back beach communities just north of Cairns, and instantly fell under its spell with a long, wide, palm-fringed beach, very little traffic and plenty of independent shops, cafés and restaurants. It is an ideal base, especially for families or anyone who wants a quieter, village feel without being too far from excursions.

Day trips along the coast are very straightforward. Driving is relaxed and scenic, hugging the coastline in parts. With a toddler in tow, we opted to drive ourselves and really appreciated the flexibility for nap times and spontaneous stops. However, escorted tours can be arranged if you prefer not to drive.

• Kuranda was one of our standout days. It is a village hidden in the Atherton Tablelands above Cairns. We took the heritage railway up, winding through tunnels and past waterfalls. We returned via the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, gliding over the treetops with astonishing views right out towards the Great Barrier Reef. With a toddler, we decided not to do any bushwalks but we did visit the markets and wildlife sanctuaries – and met our first koalas.

• The Daintree Rainforest (the oldest living rainforest in the world) is special on another level as walking under its canopy, you get a powerful sense of how ancient and precious it is. In places, you can see where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef, a unique pairing of ecosystems that has global significance.

• From Cairns and Port Douglas, you are perfectly placed for the Great Barrier Reef, the world’s largest living coral reef system. We chose a day trip, which worked well with a small child, but for keen snorkellers or divers, a live-aboard or reef cruise is an incredible option. In all honesty, this was not my best experience as I was violently seasick and the seasickness pill I took then made me fall fast asleep! Maybe a scenic flight over the reef would have been my best option.
• Our most northerly point was Port Douglas, a serene bay on the Coral Sea surrounded by the hills of the Daintree and the Macalister Range, with the aptly named white sand Four Mile Beach. The area is rich in Aboriginal heritage and various tours are available where you can learn more about the traditions of the original custodians of the land.

We weren’t able to experience any of the fabulous wellness and rejuvenation packages in the region or the high-intensity activities available, because of having a toddler along. We are desperate to return so that we can try the canyoning, SUP’ing and white water rafting that are on offer, followed by pure relaxation at a luxury rainforest lodge. We also missed out on the amazing foodie experiences available in the Atherton Tablelands, west of Cairns, which are famous for their tropical fruits, tea, coffee and mango wine. Next time…

How to make this trip a reality

Despite feeling wonderfully remote and different, Northern Australia is surprisingly easy to reach from the UK.

A simple routing could be:

• Fly London to Singapore direct.
• Connect from Singapore to either Darwin or Cairns on a direct flight.
• Take a short 2.5-hour flight between Darwin and Cairns to link the Top End with TNQ.

Many of my clients split 7–10 nights in the Top End with 7–10 nights in TNQ, finishing with 2-4 nights in Singapore to enjoy a vibrant city contrast, adjusting the pace, style of accommodation and activities to suit their interests and budget.

If you would like to tailor this trip to your own wish list, I would love to chat it through with you and design a version that feels perfectly “you”.