Hanoi: organised chaos and hidden calm

Hanoi is the kind of city that hits all five senses at once: mopeds flowing like a river of metal, the constant beeping of horns, incense curling out of tiny temples, and street‑food stalls sending up clouds of fragrant steam.

The Old Quarter was my base, a maze of narrow lanes where each street seems to have its own speciality. Hardware, flowers, shoes, silk: it is like a living, breathing department store. Crossing the road here quickly becomes an art form. The secret is to pick your moment, walk slowly and steadily, and trust that the traffic will part around you. It feels terrifying the first time and strangely normal by the third.

One of the joys of Hanoi is that once you join the flow, it stops feeling chaotic. Whether it is clinging to the back of a moped, being pedalled along in a cyclo, or simply strolling around Hoan Kiem Lake at dawn, there is a rhythm to the city that gradually seeps under your skin.

I made time for some of Hanoi’s quieter, more meaningful experiences too. Visiting a local social enterprise that supports people with disabilities was a real highlight. We learnt a few words of Vietnamese sign language, tried our hand at a simple craft and, more importantly, had the chance to connect with people whose warmth and humour transcended any language barrier. It is the sort of encounter you rarely find by accident, and one I will not forget.

Then there is the coffee. Egg coffee in particular deserves its own mention. It looks like a dessert and sounds a little outrageous, but the first sip is a revelation: rich, silky, almost like a tiramisu in a cup. I approached it with caution and ended up wondering how on earth I would live without it back home.

Food in Hanoi is the perfect introduction to Vietnam’s culinary scene: fresh herbs, bright broths, crunchy vegetables and that magical balance of sweet, salty, sour and spicy. A cooking class gave me a chance to see just how much care goes into the simplest dish. Let us just say my own attempts were more enthusiastic than elegant, but the laughter and shared meal at the end made it one of the most enjoyable afternoons of the trip.

Top tip after a long‑haul flight: book a massage as soon as you can face staying awake long enough. Vietnam does affordable indulgence extremely well, and your shoulders will thank you.

Ha Long Bay – A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Just a 2.5-hour drive from Hanoi, it’s famous for its emerald waters and towering limestone islands that rise dramatically from the sea/bay. Whether you’re kayaking on the bay, exploring caves or simply relaxing on deck, it’s one of those places that forces you to slow down and just take it all in. The traditional style junks dd to the charm

If you’re debating between one or two nights—go for two if you can. One night is a wonderful introduction, but an extra evening watching the sun set over those limestone peaks is hard to beat.

Hoi An: lanterns, cafes and a slower rhythm

Flying south to Hoi An feels like changing chapters in a book. The noise softens, the air feels warmer, and the streets are suddenly lined with golden‑yellow shophouses and splashes of bougainvillea.

Hoi An is sometimes called the City of Lanterns, and it earns the title every evening when thousands of coloured lanterns are lit across the town. Reflected in the river and strung above the narrow lanes, they give everything a soft, almost storybook glow. Even with the crowds, there is a peacefulness to wandering around the Ancient Town at dusk, watching life spill gently out onto the pavements.

It is from Hoi An that I needed to get a wildlife fix (as I always do!) – I hired a motorbike and rode into the nearby mountains – looking for the scarce (and beautiful) Red-shanked Douc (monkeys) .. I did not see any but did find some new birds for me .. so, all was not lost. Rode through fishing villages and peaceful countryside.

Whether you choose a characterful hotel in the heart of the Ancient Town or a resort closer to the beach, Hoi An is a place that invites you to slow down, breathe and simply enjoy being there.

A useful little nugget: each side of the river has its own personality. One side is quiet, with cosy restaurants and riverside bars closing around 11pm. The other turns into Hoi An’s lively bar strip. It is easy to dip in and out depending on your mood, and knowing the difference helps you choose where to wander after dark.

Ho Chi Minh City: Vietnam’s future face

My journey ended in Ho Chi Minh City, still known by many as Saigon. If Hanoi feels like an old soul and Hoi An a dream, Ho Chi Minh City is Vietnam’s dynamic, fast‑forward button.

Here, sleek skyscrapers and rooftop pools stand alongside faded apartment blocks and tree‑lined boulevards from the French colonial era. The streets are as busy as Hanoi’s, but the energy feels different: more urban, more international, yet still distinctly Vietnamese.

A city tour helped me make sense of it all. Stopping at the Reunification Palace, the elegant Central Post Office and the red‑brick Notre Dame Cathedral .

To balance the intensity, there are plenty of softer experiences. Drifting along the Saigon River at sunset, watching the skyline light up and the city shimmer on the water, offers a completely different perspective. High above the streets, rooftop bars and restaurants give you the chance to toast your trip with panoramic views, all glittering lights and endless motorbikes threading below.

From Ho Chi Minh City, day trips reveal more of southern Vietnam’s variety. Out in the Mekong Delta, often called the country’s rice bowl, life is lived at water level. Boats laden with fruit and vegetables glide past, wooden houses perch on stilts along narrow canals, and age‑old crafts like rice‑paper making are still practised by hand. Sharing a simple lunch at a local homestay and cycling through riverside villages was t memorable.

Practical tips for travelling in Vietnam

A few lessons I picked up along the way:

• Crossing the road: Pick your gap, walk slowly and confidently, and avoid stopping suddenly. The traffic will flow around you.
• Money matters: Vietnam is largely cash‑based and the notes come with plenty of zeros. Taking a moment to familiarise yourself with the denominations (and using a currency‑converter app) makes life much easier.
• Pack for variety: Temperatures and humidity can differ quite a lot between north and south. Layers are your friend.
• Book key experiences in advance: Popular activities and certain times of year can fill up quickly, so it is worth planning headline moments like cruises, special dinners or day tours ahead of time.

Vietnam is a country of incredible contrasts: centuries‑old streets and gleaming high‑rises, incense‑filled temples and neon lights, serene rice paddies and buzzing city boulevards. From Hanoi’s character and Hoi An’s lantern‑lit romance to Ho Chi Minh City’s modern edge, each place offers a different side to the same rich story.

It is vibrant, moving, beautiful and at times delightfully chaotic, but always unforgettable. If you are drawn to dramatic scenery, layered history, world‑class food and genuinely warm hospitality, Vietnam absolutely deserves a place on your list.

If you would like to follow a similar route, or tailor something completely your own, I would be delighted to help design a trip that fits your pace, style and must‑see moments.