Some places leave such a lasting impression that you find yourself returning again and again. For me, Agistri is one of those places.

I first discovered this small island in 1979 when I was living in Athens. Back then, it was a peaceful escape from city life, a place where I could leave behind the noise and pace of the capital and spend days surrounded by crystal-clear water and pine-covered hills. More than four decades later, much has changed in the world, but Agistri has somehow managed to hold on to the qualities that made me fall in love with it all those years ago.

Agistri is not a large island. In fact, its very modest size is part of its appeal. There is essentially one road that threads its way through the island, connecting the small villages and beaches. It is impossible to get truly lost here, yet every visit seems to reveal a new corner, a different view, that I somehow overlooked before.

Even now, arriving by ferry feels like a return to an old friend. As the island comes into view, I am reminded why I keep coming back. The deep blue sea, the scent of pine trees carried on the breeze, and the relaxed atmosphere all create an immediate sense of calm.

One of my favourite things to do is head to the quieter beach near the spit at Skala. While many visitors stay closer to the small main beach, I have always preferred this more peaceful spot. There’s something wonderfully simple about sitting there with a book, listening to the gentle sound of the water and watching the boats pass by in the distance. It is the kind of place where hours seem to disappear unnoticed.

Some of the island’s best beaches are not the easiest to reach, and perhaps that is part of their charm. More than once I have found myself scrambling down rocky paths towards a secluded cove, rewarded at the end by clear water, complete tranquillity, and the feeling that I had discovered a secret known only to a handful of people. Agistri has never been a place that gives away its treasures too easily.

Another tradition I never miss is taking the bus to Aponnisos. The journey itself is part of the experience, winding through the island’s beautiful landscape before arriving at one of the most stunning stretches of water I have ever seen. No matter how many times I visit, the colours still amaze me. The sea seems to shift between shades of turquoise and sapphire, and it’s impossible to resist a swim in such clear water.

The pleasures of Agistri are not limited to its beaches. Some of my happiest moments on the island have been spent doing very little at all. I particularly enjoy finding a comfortable seat on the terrace of one of the small boutique hotels, ordering a cold drink, and simply watching the world go by.

On Agistri, time seems to be measured differently. You don’t find yourself constantly checking your watch or your phone. Instead, the day is marked by the arrival and departure of the ferry. Its appearance in the harbour signals the start of a new day of visitors, supplies and activity; its departure brings a return to the island’s familiar tranquillity. Before long, you find yourself adopting the same rhythm, letting the ferry timetable replace the clock and allowing the hours to unfold naturally.

The island also has its own soundtrack. As evening approaches and the heat of the day begins to fade, the haunting cries of peacocks echo from the hillsides. The sound carries across the pine forests and valleys, sometimes distant, sometimes startlingly close. It is one of those uniquely Agistri memories that stays with you long after you have left.

And while the beaches may draw people to the island, some of my favourite meals have been found away from the coast. A walk up into the pine-covered hills often leads to family-run tavernas tucked among the trees, where the views are spectacular, the atmosphere is relaxed, and lunch has a habit of stretching lazily into the afternoon. These places seem perfectly in tune with the island itself—unpretentious, welcoming, and impossible to rush.

What I love most about Agistri is that it has never tried to become something it isn’t. It doesn’t rely on grand attractions or flashy developments. Its charm lies in its simplicity, its natural beauty, and its ability to help visitors switch off from the demands of everyday life.

Having first visited in 1979 and returned many times since, I have seen generations of travellers discover the island for themselves. Yet every time I step off the ferry, I feel much the same sense of anticipation that I did on my first visit. Agistri remains a place where life slows down, where the sea sparkles impossibly blue, where peacocks call from the hills, and where a quiet beach, a short bus ride, or a drink on a shaded terrace can be the highlight of an entire day.

Every time the ferry pulls away from the harbour at the end of my stay, I feel a tug and find myself taking one last look back at the pine-covered hills. Before long, the haunting call of the peacocks fades into the distance and Agistri becomes a green speck on the horizon. Yet the island has a way of staying with me. Perhaps it’s the simplicity of life there, where time is measured by the ferry’s arrival and departure rather than the hands of a clock. Or perhaps it’s knowing that some places, despite the passing years, remain reassuringly unchanged.