The River Cruise Chronicles - Day 2 - Exploring Lyon
Traboules, Silk and the Tale of Two Rivers
Ever wondered about River Cruising - what it's really like ? From Burgundy to Provence — seven days, two rivers, and a thousand little stories. Come aboard SS Catherine and follow me from the vineyards and charm of Burgundy to the sunshine and soul of Provence. There were beautiful towns, unforgettable scenery, fabulous food, good wine… and, of course, the sunbeds. There were locks, laughter, new friendships, unexpected moments and one rather memorable French cat. This wasn’t just a river cruise — it was seven days of slowing down, looking around and discovering what happens when you let the river set the pace. These are the River Cruise Chronicles. Come and travel the Rhône & Saône with me…
We overnighted in Lyon, and what a wonderful, vibrant city it is.
Set between two rivers, the Rhône and the Saône, Lyon has a rich heritage, a remarkable history and, of course, a very serious claim to being the gastronomic centre of France. On this particular day, the weather seemed determined to show the city at its very best. The temperatures were balmy, the streets were full of life, and somehow the rivers managed to make everything feel just a little more romantic.
I joined a small group for a walking tour, and one of the highlights was exploring the famous "traboules" - those wonderfully mysterious passageways hidden behind the streets and buildings of Lyon. I'd done a little research before I travelled, and visiting them had been firmly on my list of things I wanted to see. There is something rather intriguing about walking through a doorway that looks completely ordinary from the outside and discovering that it leads into another world.
We then made our way up Fourvière Hill and visited the magnificent cathedral. And the view...
Absolutely spectacular.
Below us, Lyon stretched out between its two rivers, with the rooftops, bridges and streets disappearing into the distance. It was one of those moments when you realise that sometimes the best way to understand a city is to look down on it.
There was a little rain, but not enough to spoil anything. In fact, it simply added another layer to the day.
After the walking tour, I headed back down into the old part of Lyon for some free time. I found a beautiful little café, sat down and ordered a homemade citronnade. And for a few minutes, there was absolutely nowhere else I needed to be.
We eventually returned to the ship for lunch and spent the afternoon simply watching Lyon go about its business. There is something rather lovely about sitting on a riverboat and observing a city from the water — close enough to feel part of it, but far enough away to simply watch.
The ship wasn't due to depart for Mâcon until six, so I took the opportunity to get to know the SS Catherine a little better.
And, naturally, that meant heading upstairs to the sun deck.
Book in hand, I settled onto a sunbed and watched the city, the river and La Fourvière stretching out before me.
Then, in the afternoon, it was time to head to the famous Bar du Leopard for a gathering especially for solo travellers. As someone travelling alone and having known nobody when I first stepped aboard, it was a lovely opportunity to meet others who had also chosen to travel solo.
And then the pace changed.
We had the Captain's Welcome Reception, followed by a cruise overview with our lovely cruise manager, Kassima, who somehow managed to make everything sound both wonderfully exciting and completely under control.
Then came dinner.
And what a dinner.
We were treated to the most spectacular gala dinner in the Cezanne Restaurant — one of those evenings where you begin to understand that river cruising is not simply about where you go, but also about how you experience the journey.
After dinner, we made our way to the sun deck. There was live entertainment in the lounge, but once again, the river had its own show to put on.
This time, we were sailing into the night.
And then came the sunset.
I think it may have been the most beautiful sunset I've ever seen.
The river seemed to catch the last light of the day, the sky slowly changing colour as Lyon disappeared behind us, the river Saône opened up, nature took over and suddenly everyone seemed to pause and simply watch.
Perhaps that is the magic of river cruising.
One minute you're exploring a city, the next you're sitting on a beautiful ship, watching the lights appear along the riverbank, and wondering how you managed to find yourself somewhere quite so lovely.
And somewhere between the sunset, the river and a rather excellent nightcap in the Bar du Leopard,
Day Two came to an end.
Tomorrow, Mâcon awaits.
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