South Africa & Mozambique

Captivating Cape Town: City, Sea & Mountain

Our adventure began with four nights in Cape Town, a city that instantly wrapped us in sunshine and smiles. I love this city; this was my third visit here. We checked into a beautiful two-bedroom suite at the One & Only, perfectly located within easy walking distance of the V&A Waterfront’s restaurants, bars and shops. For a family, it was ideal: plenty of space to spread out, yet close enough that we could simply wander out in the evening for dinner overlooking the harbour.

The resort itself felt like a sanctuary in the middle of the city. The serene swimming pool is set on its own private island, fringed by palms and loungers, so you feel worlds away from the bustle. From our balconies, we had the most incredible views of Table Mountain, changing colour with the light: soft pinks and golds at sunrise, dramatic shadows by late afternoon. It became our daily ritual to pause and just soak in that view.

We were also incredibly lucky with the weather. Travelling in the South African winter, we were expecting chillier days, but Cape Town greeted us with warm, T-shirt weather that invited us outside from dawn to dusk. We even swam in the pool.

Exploring the Peninsula: Penguins, Clifftops & Coastal Views

One of our highlights was a full-day tour down the Cape Peninsula. With an excellent, knowledgeable guide at the wheel, we traced the coastline past sparkling bays and rugged cliffs, stopping at viewpoints that seemed to get more beautiful at every turn.

At Boulders Beach, the children were thrilled to see the famous African penguins waddling across the sand and bobbing about in the water. It is impossible not to fall in love with them. From there we continued to Cape Point, where the Atlantic crashes against towering cliffs and the landscape feels wild and elemental. Along the way we paused at little coves and villages, learning about local history, wildlife and culture as we went. It was the perfect mix of education and adventure.

Another day we headed out to Hermanus for whale watching. Out on the boat we were treated to humpback whales surfacing and blowing, with seals playing in the waves around us. To be so close to such magnificent creatures, with the coastline of the Western Cape as a backdrop, was something very special.

Into the Wild: Family Safari at Phinda Game Reserve

From Cape Town, we swapped ocean vistas for bushveld horizons. A flight to Kruger was followed by a small 12-seater (a 1 hour 10 minute flight) that felt like our own private charter into the wilderness. That sense of adventure only grew as we had a bird’s-eye view of rhinos as we touched down at Phinda and later, on departure, watched staff gently chase five giraffe off the dusty runway so our plane could take off. It is the kind of moment you remember forever.

We chose Phinda specifically because it is in a malaria-free area, which meant the children did not need to take malaria tablets. For us, that peace of mind was invaluable and made the whole experience feel more relaxed.

We spent five incredible nights on safari, staying at two different &Beyond properties: Mountain Lodge and Forest Lodge. Each had its own character: one set high with expansive views over the reserve, the other tucked amid ancient sand forest, where nyala and other animals wandered quietly between the trees. Both felt luxurious yet close to nature, with warm, attentive staff who quickly felt like extended family.

Life on Safari: Dawn Wake-ups & African Skies

Safari days quickly took on a rhythm we grew to love. Each morning we were woken at around 6 am, when the air was still cool and the bush just beginning to stir. Even our teenage son, who loves a lie-in, was keen to get up. Climbing into our private vehicle, we found hot water bottles and blankets waiting for us, a small touch that made those early starts feel very cosy. It was so refreshing not seeing the kids glued to their screens; with no Wi-Fi out on drives, they were completely immersed in the moment.

We had a dedicated guide and tracker throughout our stay, and we truly bonded with them. They shared their stories, answered endless questions from us all and taught us how to read tracks and listen for subtle signs in the bush. We were blown away by how our tracker could find things. My daughter was keen to see a chameleon and on our night game drive, we passed a tree and lo and behold he found one on a branch. Just incredible. Saying goodbye at the end of our stay was genuinely emotional.

Each day included two game drives of three to four hours, one at dawn and one in the late afternoon, rolling into sunset which quickly turned to dark. The landscapes at those times of day are magical: soft mist rising, birds calling, the sky turning from pastel blues to fiery oranges and deep purples. Nothing quite prepares you for an African sunrise and sunset. At night, with almost no light pollution, the stars were breathtakingly bright, a whole galaxy glittering above us. We stopped the vehicle to watch shooting stars and pick out constellations.

The Smell & Sound of Safari: Game Drive Magic

From the very first game drive, safari worked its way into our senses. There is the soft, heady smell of potato trees on the breeze, the clean scent of fresh air and grass and then the soundtrack of the bush: birds chattering, insects humming, distant rustles that make you lean forward in your seat.

On that first drive we followed the deep, reverberating roar of a lion as he chased lionesses through the long grass. Later, we watched four leopards gently groom each other, then suddenly lift their heads in perfect unison as they realised an antelope was close by. They tried to stalk it, but this time the antelope escaped and they slipped quietly back into the undergrowth. Moments like these feel almost dreamlike, a reminder that you are simply an observer in their world.

Although it is possible to witness a live kill on safari, it is actually far more common to come across the aftermath rather than the moment itself. One of our most intense sightings began with our 14-year-old son, who spotted giraffes in the distance running in an odd, urgent way. He pointed them out to our tracker and as we followed the direction they were fleeing from we came across a pride of lions. What followed was a brief, powerful sequence that led to a warthog chase and kill. It was raw and real, but also an extraordinary teaching moment about nature, instinct and the circle of life.

Wild Visitors: When the Animals Come to You

It was not only out on drives that we felt close to the wildlife. Around the lodges there are no fences between you and nature, so animals are free to wander as they please. They come to you.

We often saw antelope and other game meandering past as we walked to our rooms and we frequently watched impala drink from our plunge pool. It felt very clear that we were the guests and they were the true owners of this landscape.

In the evenings, dinner at the boma became one of our favourite rituals. Under a sky full of stars, with lanterns glowing and a fire crackling in the centre, everyone gathered to share stories from the day: which animals they had seen, which moments had surprised them. The combination of delicious food, warm conversation and the sounds of the bush in the background is something I will never forget.

The Big Five & Unforgettable Moments

We were incredibly fortunate with our sightings and managed to see the Big Five. Some encounters were so close that we could feel the intensity of the animals. Lions padded silently past our vehicle, muscles rippling, seemingly indifferent to our presence yet commanding all our attention.

Between drives, we enjoyed the quieter side of safari life. We relaxed by the pool, visited the gym and, quite honestly, ate far too much. The food was very good, with thoughtful options that catered both for allergies and for my vegan diet. The chef met with us and each day we had our own personalised menus.

Some of our favourite memories are of the “little” moments: sundowners with no other vehicles in sight, just us, the fading light and the sounds of the bush, with snacks and drinks set up in the middle of nowhere; and a surprise bush breakfast, where we arrived at a beautiful spot to find a full cooked breakfast waiting amid the trees.

Island Paradise: Mozambique & Benguerra

From the bush, we swapped khaki for bare feet and beachwear as we flew on to Mozambique and the stunning Benguerra Island. Even getting there felt special. The only way to reach the island is by helicopter, which, in reality, is a spectacular sightseeing flight over a turquoise archipelago of shifting sandbanks, coral shallows and crystal-clear water. From above, we could see sea turtles moving gracefully through the ocean, a magical welcome to island life.

We split our stay between Azura, where we had a family room and an &Beyond property, where we enjoyed a spacious three-bedroom family casa. &Beyiond offered that lovely blend of barefoot luxury and genuine warmth. Days started with soft light over the ocean and the sound of waves, and ended with the sky awash in pinks and golds as we watched the sun slip into the sea.

Island Life: Coral Reefs, Dunes & Community

Benguerra Island may be tiny, but it is full of character. Only around 2,000 people live there, and we were privileged to explore a little of their world on an island tour. We visited the local school and hospital, both supported by &Beyond, and met groups of excited school children eager to say hello and practise their English. It was a wonderful opportunity to understand how tourism, done well, can support local communities.

For adventure, we climbed and sand-boarded the island’s dunes, laughing as we tumbled down in soft sand. We went snorkelling on what has to be one of the best reefs I have experienced: a short 20 minute boat ride took us out to a reef teeming with colourful fish, sea turtles, rays and corals. We spent 50 minutes in the water, completely absorbed in this underwater world, until a sudden lightning storm rolled in and added a dash of drama to the day. It felt like nature reminding us who is in charge. We were incredibly lucky to see a dugong (similar to a manatee).

There were gentler pleasures too: watching and listening to the ladies sing in a lullaby style with small babies attached to their backs as they collected large crabs in buckets, which they were keen to show us; walks along empty beaches that appeared when the tide was out; paddling in warm shallows and collecting shells. One evening we sailed on a traditional dhow at sunset, champagne in hand, gliding silently across mirror-still water as the sky turned molten gold. The cocktails back on shore were some of the best we have ever had, perfectly mixed and enjoyed with sandy feet and salty hair.

A Journey That Stays With You

Looking back, this trip was the perfect combination: a sophisticated city break in Cape Town, a thrilling yet family-friendly safari in a malaria-free reserve at Phinda, and a castaway island escape on Benguerra in Mozambique. Each part of the journey offered something different, yet together they created a seamless story filled with adventure, learning and relaxation.

Most importantly, we shared the excitement of spotting lions at dawn, the awe of watching whales breach and the simple contentment of walking barefoot on a beach with nowhere else we needed to be.

It is a holiday that has left a mark on all of us. We are already talking about “next time” and which animals we want to see again. For me, that is the true measure of a great family trip: not just the photos you bring home, but the way it lights up the kids’ imaginations long after you have returned.

I have been lucky enough to experience a few safaris over the years, and this journey ranks as one of the very best. If reading this has sparked ideas for your own African adventure, I would love to help you put together a tailor-made itinerary for South Africa, Mozambique or beyond.