Set deep within one of Africa’s last remaining dry sand forests. This is not a place you simply pass through; it is a landscape you slowly become a part of.

From the moment we arrived, the forest wrapped around us. Glass sided suites are tucked gently between the trees so you feel cocooned rather than exposed, almost as if the lodge has been carefully woven into the forest instead of built upon it. You wake to dappled light filtering through the canopy and the soft rustle of leaves, with the sense that life is happening all around you, just out of sight.

Mornings in the dry sand forest

Early mornings at Phinda Forest Lodge are all about sound. Before first light the birdsong begins, a layered chorus that rises through the treetops and carries across the forest like an invitation to step outside. As you walk along the sandy paths to your game drive, dew clings to the leaves and the air feels cool and earthy, filled with the promise of what the day might reveal.

Out on drive, the character of the dry sand forest really comes to life. This is a rare habitat, a patchwork of ancient woodland, open clearings and sandy tracks that hold the footprints of everything that has passed by in the night. Our ranger Victor and tracker Becky read these signs like a story, pointing out where a leopard has crossed or where cheetah tracks blur into a sprint.

Stay Wild, a child’s adventure in the wild

For our 7-year-old son, Phinda was pure magic. He had the best adventure with the lodge’s Stay Wild activity programme, which is thoughtfully designed to help children connect with the bush in a fun, hands on way.

Days were filled with simple pleasures that felt like the very essence of childhood in the wild, from “monkey orange” bowling under the trees and wild fishing at the water’s edge, to learning how to track footprints and understand who had passed by before us. He soaked up stories about the local fauna and flora, proudly pointing out different trees and birds by the end of our stay.

There was plenty of time for creativity too, with arts and crafts inspired by nature, and of course plenty of swimming in the pool that overlooks the beautiful landscapes. As adults enjoyed the tranquillity and the views, he was busy turning the wilderness into his own playground, guided and supported by the warm, knowledgeable staff.

A highlight of his stay was becoming a ranger for the week -seeing his name on the duty board and reporting for duty each morning gave him an inside experience of what being a ranger is all about. He assisted the rangers with stocking up the safari vehicles each day before we headed out for the game drives.  Hearing his name being called over the radio is a core memory for him – the sense of surprise and excitement was such a lovely moment. That is all thanks to the wonderful hands on team at Phinda Forest Lodge.

Boma evenings under the stars

One of the highlights for all of us was the boma evening. As darkness fell, we gathered around a crackling fire in a traditional outdoor boma, the sky above us scattered with stars. Lanterns cast a soft glow on the faces around the fire and the night was filled with the sounds of the African bush just beyond the circle of light.

Dinner was a celebration of traditional South African cuisine, from flame grilled meats to hearty stews, vibrant salads and indulgent desserts. Sharing these flavours in such an atmospheric setting, with stories and laughter flowing as freely as the wine, made the evening feel both deeply authentic and wonderfully memorable.

Relaxation and spa time

In between game drives and activities, there was time to slow down and embrace a different kind of luxury. The spa facilities offered a peaceful retreat, with treatments that felt perfectly in tune with the surroundings. Think soothing massages that melt away the dust and excitement of the day, leaving you refreshed, restored and ready for the next early morning wakeup call from the forest.

Walking among giants, the pangolin experience

If you visit, I would highly recommend booking the pangolin walking experience. Stepping out on foot with an expert guide gives you a completely different perspective on the landscape. You become aware of the smaller details, the textures of bark, the patterns of leaves, the intricate tracks and signs that are easy to miss from a vehicle.

Moving quietly through the forest at eye level with the trees is both humbling and exhilarating. It deepens your appreciation of this rare dry sand forest and its delicate balance and stays with you long after the walk is over.

A place that stays with you

Our time at &Beyond Phinda Forest Lodge was more than a safari stay, it was an immersion in one of Africa’s most precious and fragile landscapes, and a chance to see it through both adult and childlike eyes. From cheetahs sprinting across open clearings to our son’s joyful Stay Wild adventures, boma evenings under the stars, spa time and unforgettable walks among the trees, every day felt rich with experience and connection.

If you are dreaming of a South Africa safari that feels deeply connected to nature, with exceptional family friendly touches and a strong sense of place, Phinda Forest Lodge is a destination that lingers long after you have returned home.