Lets talk about beautiful Florence.

This is a city woven into my own story. I first visited in 1994, drifting through its streets with my mum, then went back in 2004 with Paul when I was pregnant with India. So returning this time, with the kids in tow, felt a bit like opening a favourite book to see if the magic was still there.

We arrived by train from Pisa on a busy, but thankfully air-conditioned, express service that took around an hour. Florence’s main station hits you the moment you arrive: hectic, noisy, the kind of place where everyone seems to be going somewhere fast, whether that is Rome, Milan or beyond. We fought our way through the crowds, jumped in a taxi and headed to our apartment.

With three of us wanting our own space, an apartment made perfect sense. It put us in a more residential neighbourhood, about a 15-minute walk from the Duomo. That little bit of distance from the centre turned out to be a gift. In the evenings we could wander to local bars and restaurants, eat where the locals eat, and feel as if we were borrowing a slice of Florentine life rather than just passing through.

Florence has always been popular, but I was genuinely taken aback by how busy it felt from June onwards. There is a huge American presence now, plus a steady stream of cruise ship groups snaking through the main sights. At times the centre felt too crowded. But Florence’s real luxury is its maze of side streets. Slip away from the main squares, turn down an unassuming lane, and suddenly you have space to breathe. That is where we found some brilliant little shops and bars as we zigzagged our way around the city.

Before we travelled, we all had non-negotiables on our wish list. Top of mine was San Miniato al Monte, the monastery on the hill above Piazzale Michelangelo. Piazzale Michelangelo itself is famous for its sunset views over Florence and its replica of David. In the evenings, it turns into a little festival: people perched on steps with pizza and wine, the whole city spread out below.

San Miniato, though, is personal for me. I first went after reading a Tony Warren book that described it in beautiful detail, and I have a very strong memory of being there with my mum. The walk up is steep, and in the Florence heat it is not the easiest, but the views as you climb make every step worthwhile. At the top, the quiet is almost surprising. It gave me exactly what I was hoping for: a moment to pause, remember and reflect. It felt just as special as it did all those years ago.

From there, it is an easier downhill stroll to the Boboli Gardens for a hot but lovely wander through the greenery. We finished, as you absolutely should in Italy, with a very well-earned gelato.

Lewis and India had their own top pick: the Giunti Odeon, a bookshop and cinema in the heart of Florence. It is an atmospheric building, and for us it brought together two big loves: books and films. You can take a table upstairs to study, read or simply people-watch, which is exactly what we did. Sadly, there was nothing on the programme we were desperate to see while we were there, but I would go back in a heartbeat to watch a film in that setting.

If you are planning a trip, and you want to visit the Uffizi or the Accademia, I would strongly recommend pre-booking. The queues can get very long. On this visit we chose the Accademia, which was fantastic, especially finally standing in front of Michelangelo’s David and exploring the other sculptures.

We also visited the Duomo. The exterior alone is breathtaking, and you can climb both the dome and the bell tower for incredible views. I have done the climb on a previous visit and the panorama over those terracotta rooftops really does stay with you.

Two places, though, were standout favourites for us this time. The first was the Basilica di Santa Croce, the resting place of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. It feels steeped in history in a very tangible way. The second was the Cappelle Medicee. For me, this is the most stunning basilica in Florence and, perhaps because it is often skipped by the crowds, it felt like a bit of a hidden treasure.

Just nearby you will find the leather markets and the Mercato Centrale, which is a brilliant spot for lunch. There are plenty of food stalls serving local specialities so everyone can find something they love.

If your visit coincides with 24 June, you are in for something quite special. Florence celebrates the Feast of San Giovanni, the city’s patron saint, with an early morning ceremony at the Duomo, followed by a colourful parade through the streets and the Calcio Storico final in the afternoon. Calcio Storico is a kind of historic football with elements of rugby and wrestling, and it is completely wild to watch. The day finishes with a fantastic firework display. It really is an occasion not to miss.

I have not even touched on the sunsets over the Arno, or the shops lining the Ponte Vecchio.

Honestly, I could go on and on. So, how do I feel about Florence after this latest trip? If you can, go in shoulder season when the heat and the crowds are a little kinder. But regardless of when you go, it is a city that everyone should experience at least once. As for me, after 1994, 2004 and this visit, I suspect there might have to be a fourth.