Shinjuku to Shibuya and Beyond: Our First Taste of Tokyo

Shinjuku to Shibuya and Beyond: Our First Taste of Tokyo

We based ourselves in Shinjuku for our Tokyo stay and spent our first day simply exploring the area. It is a brilliant place to stay: packed with restaurants, bars and shops, and incredibly well connected thanks to the infamous Shinjuku Station with its 200 exits. Just navigating the station feels like a sightseeing experience in itself.

Venturing into the station to cross to the other side of the district was overwhelming at first: the sheer scale, the number of people and the maze of platforms and exits. Even just looking at the network maps can feel a little intimidating.

Quirky Corners of Shinjuku

Tokyo is full of the bizarre and the brilliant sitting side by side. In Shinjuku you have the giant Godzilla head peering out from the top of Hotel Gracery and a huge 3D cat advertising screen, then just a few streets away are the tiny alleys of Golden Gai with their miniature bars that really come alive at night. There is also Memory Lane, a narrow passage lined with tiny food stalls and smoky street-food vendors that feel a world away from the neon.

Walking from Shinjuku to Shibuya

Rather than jump straight on a train, we decided to walk from Shinjuku to Shibuya, a leisurely 60 minute stroll that gave us a lovely insight into everyday Tokyo life. We passed through quiet neighbourhoods, peeked into local colleges and stopped for a matcha in a very cool little coffee shop.

On the way we stumbled across Takeshita Street, famous for its themed pig and dog cafés, colourful snacks and anime-influenced fashion. It is quite an assault on the senses, but well worth a wander. I know my younger self would definitely have parted with some money there.

We arrived into Shibuya just as the heavens opened. July is rainy season in Tokyo and the downpour was so heavy that our booking for Shibuya Sky was cancelled. The silver lining was that we found a fantastic ramen restaurant overlooking the world‑famous Shibuya Crossing. Watching the umbrellas weave their way across the junction while slurping a steaming bowl of ramen felt like a very Tokyo experience in itself.

The journey back to Shinjuku was by train. We decided it was time to brave the network and, with a little help from Google Maps, managed to find the right line home. Once you have done it once, it quickly starts to feel less daunting.

Exploring Tokyo with a Local Guide

Depending on the weather, we knew we might go back to Shibuya, but we also wanted to dig deeper into the city. For one of our days, we hired a private guide to show us around Tokyo.

Normally, Paul and I are happy to wander on our own, but this time we really wanted to talk to someone local, hear about life in the city and get those personal stories you do not find in a guidebook.

We met our guide, Mimi, in the hotel reception at 9 am and set off for the dreaded underground together. Having her with us was invaluable: she showed us the quickest way to our station and explained why it is important to double‑check the line numbers, not just the station names, as so many sound so similar.

Asakusa and Senso‑ji: Old Tokyo

Our first stop was Asakusa in the north, Tokyo’s old town. Mimi guided us around Senso‑ji, Tokyo’s oldest temple, and talked us through the rituals, from purifying at the water basin to praying at the main hall. She encouraged us to try the fortune sticks and we were both relieved when our fortunes came out favourable.

The streets surrounding the temple are lined with stalls selling snacks, souvenirs and traditional crafts, so there are lots of opportunities to pick up mementos.

A River Cruise and a Garden Oasis

Next, we travelled down the Sumidagawa River by boat, passing under bridges and seeing a different side of Tokyo as we watched new developments rise along the riverbanks.

We disembarked at Hama‑rikyu Gardens, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. These former Shogun gardens offer a calm green space right in the middle of the city. We walked along the paths, then stopped for matcha in a traditional teahouse. Sitting on the tatami mats, sipping tea and listening to the rain on the roof was incredibly peaceful. I could have stayed there all afternoon.

Meiji Shrine: Serenity in the City

From there, it was back on the trains to visit our final stop of the day: the beautiful Meiji Shrine, set in a large forested park in the heart of Tokyo. Walking through the towering trees and passing under the huge torii gates, it really does feel like an oasis away from the city bustle.

Thanks to Mimi, we not only saw some of Tokyo’s key sights, but also learnt so much about the people, the traditions and the little details of daily life that will help us as we travel on through Japan.

Navigating Tokyo’s Trains (With a Few Detours)

The next day, fuelled with new confidence, we set out on our own again, this time heading from Shinjuku to TeamLab Planets. On paper, the journey looked very simple on Google Maps. We found the right JR line, navigated our way through Shinjuku’s 200 exits and boarded the train. For the first few stops, the app tracked perfectly.

It was only when Google Maps told us we had reached our station that we realised we were actually on the wrong line. No panic though: a quick look at the network map, a recalculation of our route and we were back on track, still in plenty of time for our entry slot. It is all part of the Tokyo experience.

TeamLab Planets: A Surreal Sensory World

TeamLab Planets was worth every bit of effort. This immersive digital art museum is split into three zones: garden, water and forest. You wander barefoot through surreal spaces filled with falling digital flowers, bounce across giant soft spheres, chase virtual animals, walk through a shimmering crystal corridor and paddle through water where virtual fish swirl around your feet.

It is as mad as it sounds, but also utterly mesmerising. I would recommend that anyone visiting Tokyo sets aside a couple of hours to experience it.

Shibuya, Take Two

By the time we emerged, the sun had come out and the humidity was rising. Since we had only seen Shibuya in the rain, we decided to head back and experience it properly.

This time we found the statue of Hachiko, the famously loyal dog, and visited the Pokémon Centre for a bit of shopping. A little retail therapy, combined with the bliss of air‑conditioned stores, was the perfect way to end our Tokyo adventure.

From neon nights in Shinjuku to tranquil gardens, shrines, and cutting‑edge art, Tokyo has given us an incredible mix of experiences. Now it is time to explore more of Japan.