Golden Triangle and More!

Arriving in to Delhi after an overnight flight, we whisked through the airport to a warm welcome from our hosts. The airport was calmer and quieter than I expected and it was an easy move through immigration, having had printouts of all the relevant documentation to hand. We met our friendly and knowledgeable guide and were off to see Qutab Minar, the oldest and tallest brick minaret in the world. It offers a fascinating blend of Mughal and Hindu architecture.

This first stop gave a wonderful insight of what to expect in India, yes the beautiful blend of cultures and interesting history, but also meeting the Indian people. In the last few years there has been an increase in domestic tourism in the country, that has seen people exploring further than they have previously – we were stopped by families asking to have group photos with us as a group of Westerners and children all wanted to wave and say hello. We also marvelled at a man in flip-flops scaling a very high wall to do some maintenance,  using two log ladders tied together with rope! Our first witness to Jugaad – ingenuity, resourcefulness and maybe a little prayer gets the job done!

Checking in to the Meridian New Dehli (along side the Indian Cricket team!), we stopped for lunch before taking a insightful tour of Old Delhi with guides from the Salaam Balak Trust. The charity helps Delhi’s ‘lost’ children off of the streets, providing shelter, education and healthcare. Some of whom become guides. The tour was a cacophony of sights, sounds and smells – all that you might expect from the vibrant historic core of the city. We made way for cows walking down crowded streets, witnessed a busy spice market in action and marvelled at the stunning intricacy of the fabrics. Mixed in with hopping on and off a rickshaw through the traffic, it was an exciting and memorable experience. As it got dark, heading through some side streets we arrived at the UNESCO awarded Haveli Dharampura. It was a haven, with a wonderful 7 course tasting menu, music and dancers and time on the roof top watching the local children fly kites, a popular evening pastime in the city.

The next morning we headed out to Ranthambore. This wouldn’t be the natural order of the itinerary, but an addition at our request. Here we visited the incredible SUJÁN Sher Bagh, the Taj Sawai and the Aamaghati staying at the Historic Maharaja’s Lodge. Our early morning safari in to Ranthambore National Park, was lovely and peaceful. Different to previous safari experiences, as the drivers are not on radios with each other and sweeping in on any potential sightings. We took time to enjoy the beauty of the park, watching the deer, birding and there was a Leopard sighting too. We didn’t see a Bengal tiger, but we heard warning calls, meaning a Tiger may have seen us!

We set off the next morning for lunch and a visit to Storii By ITC Hotels Castle Kanota, before venturing up to Amer Fort. Taking the narrow winding roads making our way up to stunning views over Maota lake and Kesar Kyari garden. The fort itself offered decorative frescoes, impressive mirror mosaics and an insight in to life in a Maharaja’s court. Our home in Jaipur was the Samode Haveli – perhaps my favourite of the trip! We also visited the characterful Raj Palace.

I loved Jaipur. It was so welcoming and came with stories of beautiful people. Greener and more inviting than I imagined, I could have spent a week here. There is so much to see; we only had a short time but started with the Palace of the Winds, before visiting the City Palace and Jantar Mantar. Our guide shared stories of the history of these properties, deferring to an astrologist at Jantar Mantar who explained in detail this feat of science and engineering. We took to the streets with the Pink City Rickshaw company, who provide work opportunities for women from Jaipur’s low income families. I then took advantage of some shopping time wandering down the main street from shop to shop, browsing clothing and trinkets and pondering my luggage allowance!

On arrival in Agra. We enjoyed the distinctive Pattal Ki Daawat dining experience at Ekaa Villa, before a magical (for a secret reason) village visit and walk. We also visited The Oberoy Amarvilas with its very special views and the modern Grand Mercure.

The next day we left the hotel in darkness, adding to the magic of what this morning would bring. We were off to the incredible Taj Mahal. Now I could of course tell you about the wonderful love story of how Shah Jahan came to spend 22 years bringing to life his stunning tribute to his beloved Mumtaz Mahal. Or how the symmetry of the Mausoleum and grounds is awe-inspiring. But what  surprised me the most about visiting the Taj Mahal for the first time, is how it feels to be there. As you walk through the archway an optical illusion causes the monument to shrink away from you revealing itself. You can feel that you are not just visiting a building, you are being welcomed in to an emotional experience. The sun changes the colour of the impressive central dome as it rises and there is a real peace in just sitting and taking in the incredible view. The experience is more breathtaking than any photo can capture, yet you are surrounded by picture perfect splendour and serenity.

There is a sad end to the love story, with Shah Jahan being overthrown by his youngest son and him being imprisoned at Agra Fort where he died with a view of his creation across the river. The fort itself is another impressive site with so much attention to detail in its construction.

For a change of pace that afternoon we travelled to Chambal. Our home here was the Chambal Safari Lodge a heritage eco-lodge near Agra – they offer guided nature walks and trips down the Chambal river to spot crocodiles, turtles and Gangetic Dolphins. We visited the village of Holipura and as the sun set that evening, we sat with our guides atop the roof of an old building drinking tea and looking over peaceful village life on the Yamuna river. After dark we were invited in to Bateshwar Temple to witness the singing and bell ringing of Arti in Hindu Worship.

The last part of our adventures took us to New Delhi by train! This was a new experience for me and I do love train travel around the world. Outside the train station was brimming with taxis and it was as buzzing as you might expect, but once on the platform it was far calmer. Arrivals and departures were clearly posted and the on board experience was comfortable and well organised with spacious seating and a meal/snack service (yes, we have upgraded tickets!).

We stayed at the Imperial and visited Oberoi and The Claridges. Driving through the city, there was such a different feel here with wide boulevards and colonial architecture. Lutyens Delhi was green and in stark contrast to the bright, chaotic and vibrant small streets of Old Delhi. In the morning, we were invited visit Gurudwara Bangla Sahib , a revered place of Sikh worship. The traditions of devotion, equality and service are reflected in the welcoming atmosphere and communal kitchen and dining area, where a millionaire may volunteer alongside the homeless, eating and sharing moments of gratitude and worship. We also spent time at Ganhdi Smriti looking at the life and legacy of Mahatma Ghandi and spent time at India Gate, an impressive monument to those fallen in the Anglo-Afghan War and World War 1, pausing for group photos with school children and a group of local tourists we had seen elsewhere on our travels!

What touched me most on this trip was the humbling warmth of the Indian people. It was through their stories and shared experiences that I truly came to love this complex and fascinating country. India gave me the most magical stories of contrasts – in the architecture, the landscapes and the beautiful juxtaposition in its culture. Always between chaotic energy and the quiet peace of everyday life in the country of colour and unyielding spirit.