Coast: Himarë and the Albanian Riviera

Himarë is a growing coastal resort and works well as a base for exploring the Albanian Riviera. Boat trips run to different beaches, but we chose to drive and beach-hop at our own pace.

Gjipe Beach - Our favourite beach day started at Gjipe. You park at the top and walk about 20 minutes down a clear path to reach a sheltered cove backed by a canyon. It is a striking setting and worth the walk. We hired sun loungers, swam, had lunch at one of the simple beach bars and then wandered a short way into the canyon. You can easily spend most of the day here without moving far.

Jale Beach: - On the way back we stopped at Jale Beach, a small holiday town that seems to exist mainly for lazy days by the sea. A long stretch of sand is lined with bars and restaurants that open straight onto the beach. We arrived in time for a drink at sunset and watched locals playing backgammon. It is relaxed, easy and a good place to end the day.

Mountains: Gjirokastër and a night above the valley

After a few days on the coast, we drove inland to Gjirokastër. The road climbs away from the sea, then drops into a wide valley where this Ottoman town sits between two mountains, overlooked by a hilltop castle. The old town is full of cobbled streets, stone houses and wooden balconies. We started at the castle taking  in the views of the town, river and mountains, then headed back down for lunch and a slow wander through the lanes and shops. It is compact and easy to explore on foot.

That night we checked into Kerculla Resort, a hotel on the hill above the town.. Reaching it meant threading through narrow cobbled lanes that sometimes felt more like paths than roads, but the payoff was worth it - a wide view over the valley and a pool that appears to hang above Gjirokastër.  We finished the day with dinner on the terrace, listening to live traditional music while the sun set behind the mountains.

Rivers and lakes: Shkodër and the Shala River

The next morning we took our time over breakfast, had a last swim, then drove north to Shkodër. The landscape gradually flattened, with more farmland, before we reached Lake Shkodër on the border with Montenegro.

The town of Shkodër feels more European than other places we visited in Albania, with pedestrian streets, cafés spilling onto pavements and lots of cyclists.

The main reason for coming here was the Shala River. After reading up on the access road (and a few strong warnings), we decided against driving ourselves and booked a day tour with pickup from Shkodër.  The trip starts at Lake Komani, reached via a narrow, winding unsealed road that is currreenlty being upgraded but is still very rough in most places. If you decide to drive, allow plenty of time.

From Lake Komani, a longboat takes you across the lake to the mouth of the Shala River. For about an hour you cruise through a steep gorge, with mountains dropping straight into the water, before reaching a wider section of riverbed that becomes your base for a few hours. We hired sunbeds, had lunch and walked further along the riverbed. Others tried the zipline, kayaked and braved the very cold water. There are a few cabins to stay along the river and, if we had had more time, waking up there would have been spectacular.

If we had to pick one standout experience from the week, the Shala River would be it.

The following day we explored more of Lake Shkodër by car, passing small holiday villages and lakefront cottages. We stopped at Pelikani Restaurant, a family-run spot by the water, and ate delicious local fish while looking across the lake towards Montenegro.

City: Tirana

After two nights in Shkodër we packed up and drove south to Albania's capital Tirana. To get a feel for the city, we joined a walking tour with a local guide. It is a great way to get our bearings and learn some history of this fascinating city. Today, the city feels lively and colourful, with street art, busy bars and a strong café culture - a far cry from its past.

With limited time, we chose to visit Bunk’Art 2, a museum set in a former bunker and tunnel system in the city centre. The focus is on the police and state security, and walking through the underground corridors gives a clear sense of what life was like under the dictatorship. It is not light going, but it is very informative.

All too soon, the week was over and we were in a taxi to the airport. Albania offered far more variety than my social feed had suggested and I am glad we went beyond that beach bars of the Riviera.   Combining the coast with a few days the inland and in the north was a really great mix.

Where we stayed

We chose smaller, boutique-style hotels throughout and would happily recommend these:

Gjirokastër – Kerculla Resort
Set high on the hill above Gjirokastër, Kerculla Resort feels a little removed from the town in the best possible way. The pool looks straight out over the valley and the stone terraces are perfect for watching the light change on the mountains. It has the feel of a small retreat rather than a city hotel, but you are only a short drive from the old town.

Shkodër town – Cocja Boutique Hotel
Cocja Boutique Hotel is a friendly, characterful base right in Shkodër, with easy access to cafés, restaurants and the pedestrian streets. It a stylish hotel, with thoughtful details and a relaxed atmosphere, where the locals come and enjoy a catchup over coffee.

Lake Shkodër – Duomo Resort
Duomo Resort sits right on the edge of Lake Shkodër, so it is all about the views and the slower pace. It is quiet, with plenty of space to sit outside. If you want a night or two to step back from driving and sightseeing, this is an easy place to do it.

Tirana – Le Suite Boutique
Le Suite Boutique is a small, modern hotel in a central part of Tirana, where you can walk to most places. Rooms are comfortable and well designed, and the staff are warm and welcoming.

Practical tips

GETTING THERE

We arrived in Albania by ferry from Corfu, which is a good alternative to flying into Tirana. The crossing takes around 45 minutes and arrives in Sarandë on the southwest coast. It is an easy way to start the trip and means you can combine Albania with time in Corfu if you want a longer break. From there we picked up a car and drove north to Himarë, our base for the first few days

DRIVING

We had read a lot about driving in Albania and were pleasantly surprised. It looks chaotic at first, but it does work.

• Roads we used were generally well maintained. The main exception was the road to Lake Komani, which is rough and unsealed in parts.
• Choose an automatic car if you can. It makes hills and driving along the narrow coble streets easier.
• Do not choose a car bigger than you need. Coastal roads and town streets can be narrow and parking tight.
• If you plan to drive into Montenegro, check that your rental company allows cross-border travel and confirm the paperwork you need.

If there are sections you feel unsure about, such as the road to Lake Komani, consider joining a tour just for that part.

MONEY

• Cards are widely accepted, but cash is still preferred in many places.
• ATMs are easy to find, but check the exchange rate offered and any fees before confirming a withdrawal.
• Euros are often accepted, but using the local currency (lek) is usually better and clearer.
• If you are paying for tours or accommodation locally, check in advance which currency they expect and whether cards are accepted or if it is cash only.