I Went Back to South Africa — and Remembered Exactly Why I Can’t Stay Away

That first trip properly got under my skin. So when a friend suggested a holiday there last year,  and the plan included a safari (which I definitely couldn’t afford the first time), plus wine tours, beaches and a road trip along the Garden Route,  it was, obviously, an immediate YES. You don’t need to ask me twice. Especially when the trip is planned for February.

Cape Town arrival, straight to the winelands

We flew into Cape Town and went straight to Stellenbosch, in the heart of the wine region. It’s around a 45-minute drive from the airport on a main highway, and because we were flying home from Cape Town, we decided to save the city for the end of the trip.

Stellenbosch has that relaxed country-town feel, but with a seriously good food and retail scene, the kind of place where you pop out for a coffee and then wander into a shop “just for a look”.

It’s also a brilliant base for exploring the surrounding wine areas like Franschhoek and Paarl. The only problem? There are so many wine farms to choose from that it becomes a logistical challenge (and a willpower test).

We made life easy and used the local tours, meaning we could squeeze in a handful of vineyards in a day… although, honestly, we visited fewer than planned because we kept finding places we didn’t want to leave. Most farms we visited had a tasting room, lovely gardens, and restaurants, so it never felt like “just a quick tasting”.

In Stellenbosch we used the Wine Hopper, which runs like a hop-on hop-off bus with different routes. It was perfect because you never feel rushed,  as long as another bus is coming, you’ve got time for just one more tasting.

We also booked the Franschhoek Wine Tram, which takes you through the valley and stops at a selection of wine farms. It’s part sightseeing, part transport, part “this is a very good idea”. We booked lunch at Grand Provence,  a beautiful farm with a sculpture gallery,  and it was one of those afternoons that’s hard to beat: good wine, good food, and that dreamy winelands pace where nobody is in a hurry.

Safari time: Sanbona

Next stop: safari. We chose Sanbona, a 58,000-hectare private game reserve in the Little Karoo. One of the big selling points for us was that it’s malaria-free, so no need to factor medication into the trip planning.

We arrived with enough time to properly settle in have a swim before the evening game drive.

The drive was about three hours, with a sundowner stop while the sun dropped across the plains. The first animals we spotted were zebras, then a group of giraffes… and from there it just kept going: springbok, elephants, lions, rhino, kudu. It’s one of those experiences that doesn’t just impress you in the moment, it stays with you.

The next morning we were up early for the sunrise drive, starting just before daylight. Watching the landscape change as the sun came up was spectacular. Not long in, our ranger got a call: a hippo was heading to a nearby watering hole. We got there in time to watch him come over the bank and slide into the water for his first bath of the day.

And then, because it was apparently our lucky day,  we saw a leopard (notoriously hard to spot) and buffalo… which meant we ticked off the Big Five while we were there.

Safari can be one of the most expensive parts of a South African itinerary, but from my experience it is  worth it.

Beaches + mountains: Plettenberg Bay and the Tsitsikamma

After breakfast it was back in the car, heading to Plettenberg Bay for a few nights before starting the Garden Route journey back towards Cape Town.

Plettenberg Bay is a laid-back seaside town with long stretches of beach, backed by the Tsitsikamma Mountains. The scenery is stunning, and there’s so much to do that it’s hard to fit into a few days,  so we split our time between the coast and the mountains.

On the coast we explored Robberg Nature Reserve (the walking trails around the peninsula are beautiful), swam at Central Beach, and wandered through the local Saturday market.

After a few days we headed about 18km inland into the lush Tsitsikamma forest. We definitely weren’t blessed with the weather on the drive in,  but if anything, it just added to the drama of it all as the landscape shifted and darkened around us. And then…the next morning was a complete turnaround. We woke to birdsong, sunshine spilling over the valley, and the forest coming to life after the heavy rains,  fresh, green, and buzzing.

Hermanus (even without the whales)

Next stop: Hermanus, at the southern end of the Garden Route. The drive takes you past Knysna, George and Mossel Bay,  and through farmland -  a classic road trip day where the scenery keeps changing.

Hermanus is famous for whale watching, and unfortunately, we weren’t there at the right time of year. We walked the coastal walking path, along dramatic cliffs, wide ocean views, and a series of sculptures dotted along the route.

Chapman’s Peak Drive and back to Cape Town

On our final road trip day we headed for Cape Town  but not before driving Chapman’s Peak Drive.

To be honest, I hadn’t really known much about it beforehand, and it wasn’t something I did on my first South Africa trip. But driving it for the first time, it didn’t take long to understand why it’s considered (as I now know) one of the most spectacular drives in the world.

It’s a 9km stretch with 114 curves, dramatic cliffs, and views across the Atlantic. We were lucky there wasn’t much traffic, so we could take it slowly and enjoy it.

And then, as you continue along the coast road and headed towards the city, we spotted them: Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. We’d arrived in Cape Town.

Much has been written about Cape Town,  the good and the bad,  but spending three days there at the end of an already incredible holiday just added another layer. It’s vibrant, cultural, historic, and unbelievably beautiful. We packed in so much that it’s hard to pick highlights, but when I go back (and I will), I know I’ll be heading straight back to Table Mountain and the Zeitz MOCAA (Museum of Contemporary Art Africa).

And now I’m planning trip number three…

So that’s two South Africa trips done,  and I’m already planning the next one, this time to the West Coast and Cedarburg. But it’s also done what South Africa always does: it’s made me want to see more of Africa. My list is growing.

If you’re thinking about South Africa,  whether you want winelands and foodie spots, a once-in-a-lifetime safari, a road trip, or a bit of everything,  I can help you put it together and make it feel effortless.

📞 T: +44 (0)20 3868 2754
📧 E: margaret.ryan@travelcounsellors.com