Lake Minnewanka

Canada: Rockies, Rails and Coastal City Vibes

Mel Halloway on 02 Oct 2022

I never expected to fall in love with Canada quite as much as I did. From the moment I flew from London Heathrow into Calgary and stepped into that big, open Alberta sky, I was hooked: the scenery, the people, the experiences and of course the iconic Rocky Mountaineer. It is a trip that genuinely feels “once in a lifetime” yet is so easy and comfortable to do. Here is a taste of my journey, plus some ideas and tips if you are dreaming of Canada for your own adventure.

Calgary: Culture, skyline views and phenomenal food

After landing in Calgary, I checked into the Delta Hotel in downtown Calgary: a great base for exploring on foot.

One of my highlights was a tour of Studio Bell, home of the National Music Centre. Housed in a former performance and recording facility, this state‑of‑the‑art complex was the first of its kind in North America, combining performance spaces, recording studios and broadcast facilities under one roof. If you love music, it is a must.

From there I joined a mini walking tour of the city, taking in:

  • The striking modern library, an architectural gem
  • Olympic Plaza, built for the 1988 Winter Olympics
  • The whimsical Wonderland statue, a huge wire‑mesh head right in the heart of downtown
  • Historic Stephen Avenue, with its shops, restaurants and buzzing street life

We finished with a trip up the Calgary Tower. Standing high above the city, with 360‑degree views of the skyline and the distant Rockies, it is the perfect way to get your bearings.

Lake MoraineLocal drink Beer and Tomato!Lake LouiseBanff GondolaDinner was at Charcut, a gorgeous restaurant with fantastic, high‑quality food and a warm buzz. I would absolutely recommend it for a special night in the city.


Canmore: Mountain town magic

The next morning, I took a coach to Canmore, around 50 miles west of Calgary. It is a stunning little town surrounded by snow‑capped peaks, with breath‑taking views in every direction.

I fell head‑over‑heels for Canmore. The streets are lined with independent art galleries and quaint local shops, and there is a relaxed, outdoorsy feel. It is not unusual to see elk wandering through town, which adds to the sense that you are right on the edge of the wilderness.

I tried a Nordic walking tour here and loved it: a brilliant way to get moving, learn a new skill and soak up those mountain views. I cannot say it enough: I loved, loved Canmore and highly recommend including it in a Rockies itinerary.


Banff, Lake Minnewanka and the Rockies icons

From Canmore we continued into the heart of the Rockies and Banff National Park.

A glacial highlight was the Lake Minnewanka cruise. This is Banff’s largest lake, with extraordinary blue water and dramatic mountains all around. Being out on the water gives you a completely different perspective of the landscape.

In Banff itself, I took a ride on the Banff Gondola up Sulphur Mountain. The views over the Bow Valley and surrounding mountain ranges are simply spectacular.

A couple of fun facts:

  • Banff was Canada’s first national park and one of the oldest in the world, established in 1885.
  • The Banff Gondola climbs to an elevation of around 2,281 metres, and at the top you will find panoramic boardwalks and an interpretive centre that really bring the landscape to life.

I stayed two nights at the Mount Royal Hotel in Banff, right in town, which made it easy to wander out for dinner and drinks. One evening we dined at Bluebird, a lovely spot for hearty, comforting food after a day in the fresh mountain air.


Lake Louise, Moraine Lake and a day of iconic views

A full‑day tour took us to some of the Rockies’ most famous locations:

  • Bow Falls, a beautiful waterfall just outside Banff
  • Lake Louise, framed by the Victoria Glacier
  • Surprise Corner, a superb viewpoint looking back towards Banff and the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel
  • Moraine Lake, tucked in the Valley of the Ten Peaks

Lake Louise is stunning but very commercialised and busy. Personally, I preferred Moraine Lake. The colour of the water has to be seen to be believed, a vivid blue‑green that looks almost unreal. No filters, no edits needed: it is pure, natural beauty.


Rocky Mountaineer: GoldLeaf, glass domes and unforgettable moments

Next came the showstopper: boarding the Rocky Mountaineer for the journey through the Rockies to Vancouver.

I travelled in GoldLeaf Service and would absolutely recommend choosing this if budget allows. You are in a bi‑level glass‑domed coach, with panoramic windows upstairs and a dedicated dining room downstairs. The food is freshly prepared and genuinely excellent, paired with local wines and craft beers, and the service is incredibly attentive.

The open‑air viewing platform allows you to step outside for fresh mountain air and unobstructed views. Glaciers, rivers, forested valleys, tiny towns and wildlife: it is a once‑in‑a‑lifetime experience that you simply never forget.

We overnighted in Kamloops, arriving early evening. Dinner was at Underbelly by the Pig, a local restaurant with great character. Here I tried a very local “beer and tomato juice” drink called a Clamato: I will let you decide if it is a new favourite or strictly one‑and‑done!

The next morning we were back on the Rocky Mountaineer, following the Thompson River and then into the dramatic Fraser Canyon, before rolling into Vancouver.


Vancouver: Cool neighbourhoods and coastal adventure

In Vancouver I stayed at the Coast Coal Harbour Hotel for two nights. I adored the city and could easily have stayed longer: two nights did not feel like enough, as there is so much to see and do.

Highlights included:

  • City cycle tour: a brilliant way to get oriented, see different neighbourhoods and enjoy the seawall and parks at a relaxed pace.
  • Granville Island: reached by coach transfer and small ferries, this is a quirky hub of artisan food producers, artists and markets. Once an industrial zone, it is now famous for its public market, theatres, galleries and waterfront dining.
  • Yaletown and Gastown: exploring these districts gave a real flavour of Vancouver’s personality, from historic cobbled streets and the famous steam clock to chic converted warehouses and stylish bars.

Despite being scared of heights, I braved the Capilano Suspension Bridge, one of Vancouver’s oldest and most iconic attractions. The bridge stretches 137 metres across and hangs 70 metres above the Capilano River, swaying gently as you cross. The surrounding rainforest, treetop walkways and cliff‑walk paths make this a breath‑taking experience in every sense.

We rounded off the evening with cocktails at Carlinos and dinner at Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House, both excellent choices if you love good food and a lively atmosphere.


Taking to the skies and more Vancouver fun

The next morning we took a scenic seaplane flight over to Vancouver Island, with incredible views over the coastline, mountains and islands. It is one of those “pinch me” moments that really shows off the scale and beauty of British Columbia.

Back in the city, we also experienced FlyOver Canada, an immersive flying ride that “takes you” across the country from coast to coast, and Grouse Mountain, where you ride the gondola up to sweeping views of Vancouver nestled between forest, mountains and ocean.


Why Canada (and this kind of trip) is so special

I went to Canada thinking I would enjoy it, but I did not expect to love it quite so much. Here is why I think it is such a fantastic choice:

  • Breathtaking scenery at every turn: glacier‑fed lakes, towering peaks, deep canyons and coastal views that feel cinematic. There is a real sense of space and purity.
  • Friendly, welcoming people: everywhere I went, from city restaurants to tiny towns, people were warm, helpful and genuinely proud to share their home.
  • So much to do: from soft adventure like gondolas, walking tours and cycling, to foodie experiences, culture, wildlife and relaxed city exploring. You can make it as active or as gentle as you like.
  • Comfort and quality: this is a trip that feels adventurous but is also incredibly comfortable. Great hotels, excellent food and the luxurious Rocky Mountaineer mean you never feel like you are “roughing it”, even in the heart of the mountains.
  • Multi‑centre without the hassle: in one itinerary you can experience a prairie city, mountain towns, national parks, a legendary rail journey and a vibrant coastal city, with everything flowing seamlessly.

Tips and ideas if you are thinking about a similar trip

If this has sparked ideas for your own Canada adventure, here are some practical suggestions:

  • Consider the Rocky Mountaineer: If your budget allows, GoldLeaf Service is absolutely worth it for the dome carriage, dining experience and outdoor viewing platform. It elevates the whole journey.
  • Stay in Canmore as well as Banff: Canmore has a slightly quieter, more local feel and is a lovely contrast to busier Banff. A night or two in each works brilliantly.
  • Plan for at least three nights in Vancouver: With cycling, Granville Island, Capilano, Grouse Mountain, seaplane options and neighbourhood exploring, two nights really is the bare minimum. Three or even four gives you breathing space.
  • Book key experiences in advance: Gondolas, Lake cruises, Capilano Suspension Bridge and seaplane flights are all popular, especially in peak season. Pre‑booking is strongly recommended.
  • Travel at your own pace: This sort of trip is very flexible. We can build in extra nights for hiking, wildlife watching, spa time or simply sitting with a coffee and admiring the view.

If you are dreaming of the Canadian Rockies, the Rocky Mountaineer, or a Calgary‑to‑Vancouver route and would like to tailor something similar to your own pace, interests and budget, I would love to help.

Contact me to start planning your own unforgettable Canada adventure.

 

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