A Seamless Start: Virgin Upper Class Wing & Lounge

The adventure began at Heathrow, where we were able to use the Virgin Atlantic Upper Class Wing and lounge. From the smooth, private-style check in to relaxing in the lounge with a drink in hand, it set the tone for the whole trip: calm, cared for and just that little bit special.

Landing in Delhi, we were greeted by our amazing Titan team: guides Hemendra and Raj, our driver Pablo and Narinda, our “bus boy”, who fast became the quiet hero of our days on the road. We were each given a Moli, a simple beaded thread bracelet, for protection and good luck, along with bottled water. It was a small gesture, but a powerful one, and it immediately made us feel welcomed and watched over.

Our 42-seater coach was lovely and spacious, ideal for long drives and sightseeing. As we wound our way through Delhi for about an hour towards our hotel, Hem and Raj pointed out some of the city’s icons: India Gate, the grand Presidential Palace and the wide ceremonial avenues in between. Delhi traffic is an experience in its own right, but from our cool, comfortable coach with expert commentary, it was the perfect introduction.

A Luxurious Welcome: Leela Ambience, Delhi

Our first hotel was the Leela Ambience, and the welcome was nothing short of spectacular. As we stepped off the coach we were greeted with flower necklaces, cool face cloths, a coffee-juice style welcome drink and even an Indian dance demonstration right there in the lobby. It was immersive, joyful and instantly put us in “holiday mode”.

The rooms were large, beautifully appointed and luxurious, with every modern comfort and an enormous bath that felt like the perfect antidote to a long travel day. After a quick freshen up we reconvened in the dining room for lunch and faced a buffet of astonishing variety and quality: delicate sushi, Indian street food favourites, a range of curries and salads, plus excellent Western options too. Everything was presented with such care.

The afternoon was all about unwinding: time by the pool, a gentle swim and a chance to let the heat and sounds of Delhi wash over us. I treated myself to a Swedish massage in the spa which cost Rs. 6,500, roughly £50, and it was worth every penny. After another delicious dinner in the hotel restaurant and plenty of travel fatigue catching up with us, we all headed to bed ready for the days ahead.

Delhi: Faith, Food & Everyday Life

Monday 18th: Exploring Delhi

After an early breakfast we were out by 8 am for a full day exploring Delhi. Our first stop was Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. Standing barefoot in the courtyard, hearing the echoes of daily life outside the walls, was both humbling and beautiful.

After visiting Jama Masjid, we climbed into cycle rickshaws for an exhilarating ride through the tangled lanes of Chandni Chowk. The market was a riot of colour and sound: tiny shops overflowing with saris and spices, the smell of street food drifting through the air, scooters weaving between pedestrians, bells ringing and vendors calling out their wares. Bumping along at eye level with everyday life, we felt completely immersed in Old Delhi, close enough to touch the hanging garlands of marigolds and admire the intricate shopfronts as we passed.

Later, we visited a Sikh temple and its huge community dining hall. Here we saw first-hand how the langar operates: a kitchen and dining room that feeds around 50,000 people a day, sometimes more during festivals. The vast majority of the work is done by volunteers and all food is donated. Watching people quietly chopping, stirring and serving, all in the spirit of service, was incredibly moving.

Lunch was at the Connaught Clubhouse, then it was time to head to the station for our train to Agra. We had allocated seats in Coach C4 and the train was very busy, but extremely organised. On board we were given water and a neat little tray of snacks: a pastry biscuit, a hot savoury bite and a sachet of instant masala chai. It felt like a very Indian way to travel: bustling, sociable and fuelled by tea.

Agra: Taj Mahal at Sunrise & Rooftop Cocktails

Stepping off the train in Agra, the heat hit us like an oven. It was 43 degrees and you could feel it radiating from every surface. We were whisked to our coach and driven to the ITC Mughal Hotel, our base for the night.

After a quick freshen up, we headed to the hotel’s rooftop Molecule bar. As the sun slowly dropped behind the hazy skyline, we enjoyed spectacular cocktails and panoramic views. It felt surreal to be sipping a drink in such style knowing that the Taj Mahal was just a short distance away, waiting for us at sunrise.

Tuesday 19th: Taj Mahal at Dawn & Agra Fort

The alarm went off at 4.30 am and we were on the coach by 4.45, bleary-eyed but buzzing with excitement. Arriving at the Taj Mahal before sunrise meant no queues and a calm, almost sacred atmosphere. It was clear, not too hazy, and we watched as the marble shifted from soft grey to warm gold as the first light touched it.

Our guides shared the story of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, of love and loss and the incredible skill that went into crafting every intricate detail. We had time to wander, take photographs and simply stand in silence, absorbing the beauty of it all.

Afterward we headed into Agra to visit the Agra Fort. By this point the temperature was well into the 40s, so we drank constantly and darted into patches of shade whenever we could. The fort itself is vast and imposing, with sweeping views back over the river to the Taj.

From here it was a five-hour drive to Ranthambore. We arrived at Ranthambore Regency to a warm welcome, charming staff and a relaxed, slightly rustic atmosphere that suited the safari setting perfectly. That evening was all about winding down: a dip in the pool, a browse in the little shop and an early night for some of us. I booked another Swedish massage for the morning, ready for the adventures to come.

Ranthambore: The Long Wait for Stripes

The following morning was free time, which meant one thing for me: my much-anticipated massage. It was a wonderful way to loosen up before our wildlife experiences. Around lunchtime we had a fascinating “tiger talk” from one of the conservationists. He explained how the park is managed, how the tigers are monitored and the importance of responsible tourism in preserving their habitat.

First Safari: Dust, Heat & Patience

Our first safari took place in the afternoon. It was scorching hot and very dusty as we headed into one of the park’s zones, bumping along in open vehicles. We spotted sambar deer, peacocks, a mongoose and a kingfisher, but no tigers. At one point we waited a long time in the same spot after hearing that a tiger was sleeping in a nearby gully, hidden in the grass. Eventually, drained by the heat and with no sign of movement, we gave up and headed back. Everyone felt deflated.

Our guide, however, was a delight: warm, engaging and full of stories about his years working with the BBC. References to “Rikki-Tikki-Tavi” and the mongoose made us all smile. Even without tigers, he made sure the experience was educational and fun.

Second Safari: Sunrise & Success

The next morning, Thursday 23rd, started even earlier. We were up at 5 am for a sunrise safari, hopeful after news of a fresh kill being spotted. We drove to the area, scanning intently, but saw nothing. Then word came through that a tiger had been seen sleeping in the grass not far from us, so we headed over, joining a cluster of other vehicles that had also heard the news.

We waited 15 or 20 minutes with no movement and eventually drove off for a quick comfort break. Afterwards, we explored a few other corners of the park before circling back to the same area. This time, our patience was rewarded. Shortly after we arrived, a female tiger stood up, shook herself, walked a short distance and then lay down again in the grass.

She was breathtaking: powerful, perfectly marked and absolutely in her element. I managed to capture a decent video and the sense of shared joy in the vehicle was palpable. Later, in a different part of the park, we spotted her son, also resting in the long grass, so beautifully camouflaged we could only just make him out. Two tigers in one morning, after so much waiting, felt incredibly special.

We returned to the hotel for breakfast, buzzing from the sightings, then packed up and began the four-hour drive to Jaipur.

Jaipur: Bazaars, Family Kitchens & Palaces

Arriving in Jaipur was a complete change of pace. Our first stop was a local bazaar: narrow streets, bright colours, fabrics, jewellery and trinkets piled high. The traders were persistent, constantly asking what we wanted and pushing their wares towards us. It was intense, noisy, and very much part of the authentic Jaipur experience.

We checked into the ITC Rajputana Hotel, another comfortable and well-run property, and then headed out by TukTuk for what became one of the most memorable evenings of the trip: a home-cooked dinner with a local family.

Cooking with a Local Family

Our hosts were a husband and wife and their two sons. They welcomed us as if we were old friends: warm, funny and endlessly patient with our questions. The eldest son, a chess champion, proudly showed us his trophies. It was the youngest son’s birthday, which added to the festive feel.

In the kitchen we watched as our host demonstrated how to cook various Indian dishes: dals, curries, raita and accompaniments. The aromas of spices toasting and onions sizzling filled the house. Then we all sat down together to eat. It was a joyful, intimate window into everyday Indian life that you simply do not get on a standard tour.

Friday 22nd: Jaipur’s Icons

The next day was dedicated to Jaipur’s highlights. We drove into the city, passing the iconic Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) and pausing for photos of its intricate, honeycomb façade. Then we continued out to the Amber Fort, perched high above the surrounding hills. With its courtyards, mirror work and sweeping views back over the valley, it was an undeniable highlight.

Back in the city we visited the observatory, an open-air collection of vast astronomical instruments and sundials, and the City Palace. By late afternoon we were ready for some downtime, so we returned to the hotel for a lazy few hours by the pool followed by dinner.

Pink Rickshaws, Monsoon Rains & Back to Delhi

Saturday 23rd: Pink Rickshaw Ladies

On our final full day we headed to the main museum, where we met the inspirational Pink Rickshaw Ladies. This initiative supports women by training them to drive and run their own tuk tuk businesses, giving them independence and a secure income.

We were shown the brand new electric tuk tuk that Virgin Atlantic and Titan had donated to the organisation, then climbed into the pink rickshaws for a tour of Jaipur’s old town. Zipping through the streets in these eco-friendly vehicles, driven by women who were clearly proud of their work, was heartwarming and empowering.

After the tour we began the long drive back to Delhi by coach. Somewhere along the way we stopped at McDonald’s for a very un-Indian but much-enjoyed snack. As we continued, the weather changed dramatically: heavy rain and thunder rolled in, the sky darkened and the roads glistened. At one service station we fed some stray dogs, another small but poignant moment that will stick with me.

We arrived back at the Leela Ambience in Delhi for our final night, met in the bar for farewell drinks and enjoyed one last meal together. It was an early night for most of us, with alarms set for the journey home.

Homeward Bound: Farewells & Champagne

Sunday 24th: Departure Day

Our last morning started at 6 am with not one, not two, but three wake-up calls and a mini drama in the form of a flooded bathroom thanks to an overenthusiastic shower. After a quick poached egg for breakfast, it was time to depart for the airport.

Saying goodbye to Raj and Hem was surprisingly emotional. Throughout the trip they had been generous with their time and knowledge, patient with endless questions and always ready with a story. As a parting gift they presented us with beautiful hand-painted tuk tuks, a perfect little keepsake from our “Tuk into India” adventure.

At the airport our Virgin Atlantic flight departed on time. I had paid for extra legroom and we were seated in the front row. When Geraldine’s screen failed, she and Carmen were moved, leaving me with the entire front row to myself. The cabin crew were lovely. Once Julie, one of the crew, realised that Beth was Virgin staff, she brought us champagne and made sure we were thoroughly looked after for the flight home.

Reflections on “Tuk into India”

Looking back, this trip was a rich tapestry of experiences: the luxury of the hotels, the raw heat of the cities, the quiet dignity of places of worship, the emotional rollercoaster of safari and the warmth of the people who welcomed us at every turn.

Highlights included:

• The seamless Virgin Atlantic journey and Upper Class Wing experience at Heathrow.
• Lavish buffets and spa time at Leela Ambience and the ITC hotels.
• Sunrise at the Taj Mahal, virtually crowd-free and utterly mesmerising.
• Finally sighting not one but two tigers in Ranthambore after so much waiting.
• Dinner in a Jaipur family home and cooking lessons in their own kitchen.
• Supporting the Pink Rickshaw Ladies and seeing Virgin and Titan’s donated tuk tuk in action.

It was a journey that celebrated India’s colour, chaos and kindness, but also its quieter stories: of volunteers feeding thousands in a Sikh temple, of conservationists working to protect tigers, and of women carving out new futures behind the wheel of bright pink tuk tuks.