Stockholm: The Perfect City Retreat
Scenic Scandinavia: Why Stockholm is worth a visit
I’d heard Stockholm was beautiful, but I wasn’t prepared for how restorative it would feel. I went for just a long weekend, expecting a stylish city break. What I found was a city that makes you slow down. It’s built across 14 islands, so water is never far away, and there’s a calm in the air that you feel almost as soon as you arrive. It’s also packed with surprising things to do, from sipping cocktails in a bar made of ice to standing beside a 17th-century warship. Here’s how my weekend unfolded, and why I think it would suit couples and families alike.
Getting there
We flew with SAS from Heathrow to Stockholm Arlanda, then took the Arlanda Express into the city. It’s one of the easiest airport transfer I’ve come across – everything signposted well, and the journey to Stockholm Central takes just 18 minutes, with trains every 15 minutes. A single adult ticket costs around 320 SEK (£25). It’s fast, comfortable and drops you right in the heart of the city, so your weekend starts the moment you land.
Where we stayed: Downtown Camper by Scandic
Our home for the weekend was Downtown Camper, a super characterful city hotel. Scandic calls it a signature hotel for urban explorers. It’s very Scandi, outdoorsy and active, yet relaxed at the same time, like a cabin retreat in the middle of the city. Daily activities include movie nights, yoga, kayaking and skateboarding lessons. The restaurant is called Campfire, and there’s also a top-floor cocktail lounge called The Nest with great views across the city. The location is hard to beat, being an 8-minute walk from Stockholm Central Station, and Sergels Torg is just 100 metres away. It sits on Brunkebergstorg alongside several other design hotels and the rooftop bar Tak, so some of Stockholm’s best spots are right on your doorstep.
Markets, rooftops and an ice bar
Friday lunchtime we spent in Hötorgshallen market hall, which was a lovely way to ease into the city. We had wholesome and filling salmon dishes, which were perfect for a cool autumn day. The food hall sits beside Hötorget, the Haymarket square. The current building opened in 1958 and houses some of the city’s best food stalls, so it’s a great place for lunch while you get your bearings.
In the evening we headed over the street for drinks at Tak, which means “roof” in Swedish, and the views are the reason to go. It sits 52 metres up, with Nordic-Japanese food and a rooftop terrace. The floor-to-ceiling windows keep the historic rooftops and the City Hall in sight wherever you sit. With a range of beers and cocktails there is a drink for everyone – the Gin and Basil cocktail is a must!
Dinner at Stortorgskällaren in Gamla Stan was an absolute top pick: the food was divine. It’s on Stortorget, the oldest square in Stockholm, and the restaurant occupies a 500-year-old wine cellar. If you want a romantic, atmospheric dinner in the old town, this is the one. Think beef cheek, tartare, veal, Swedish meatballs…yum!
After we headed to the Icebar, next to the Arlanda Express Station. Kept at -7°C, it was the world’s first permanent ice bar, and it is redesigned every year. This year’s theme is Norse mythology, inspired by Yggdrasil, the tree that connects the nine worlds, which means Odin, Thor and the old Nordic gods appear in the carved ice around you. The glasses are cut from blocks of ice from northern Sweden’s Torne River and melted down after use, so you’re drinking from a piece of Swedish Lapland. You also get a cape and gloves for your visit, which lasts around 45 minutes.
A city full of Museums
On Saturday morning we headed to The Vasa Museum which is currently holding a James Cameron exhibition. This was my absolute favourite part of the whole trip. The Vasa is a remarkably well-preserved 17th-century warship that sank on her maiden voyage in 1628. She lay on the seabed for over 300 years before being raised, and today she is around 98% original. Her sheer size and craftsmanship are awe-inspiring, and it’s fascinating to think that if she had sailed as intended, we wouldn’t have her today. If you only see one thing in Stockholm, make it this.
As mentioned, it is hosting the James Cameron exhibition called Challenging the Deep. It combines props from his feature films with film projections and rare objects. You get to see his incredible real-life ocean exploration alongside film pieces, including the clothes worn by Jack and Rose in Titanic. The Vasa Museum is the first venue in Europe to host it, and it runs until September 2027.
Next we headed to The Vrak, the Museum of Wrecks, which is named Museum of the Year 2026 and is included in the Vasa combo ticket. Next door to this is the Viking Museum where we had our lunch in the restaurant, Eld. The museum developed its own mead with a local brewery, so you can drink like a Viking. It’s an immersive spot to eat, and the lingonberry mead is well worth trying. If you’d like to go further, the restaurant also offers mead tastings that take you through the history of the mythical drink, which would make a great addition for couples or anyone with an interest in this part of history.
Walking back from Djurgården, we spotted an amphibious vehicle I was excited to try. Named the Oceanbus, our tour began on Strömgatan, the waterfront road outside the Royal Opera, with the water on one side and Stockholm’s elegant buildings on the other. A guide told us about Stockholm’s history and culture, then we drove straight into the water for a boat trip. The tour last around an hour and is a fun way to see the city from road and water.
We finished Saturday with a more upscale evening at Brasserie At Six, set in Hotel At Six just a short stroll from our own hotel. It describes itself as a modern brasserie where European tradition meets Nordic soul, combining French elegance with a cool Northern spirit. The menu changes with the seasons, giving classic dishes a Nordic twist, and the wine list has more than 400 labels. The setting was lively yet intimate, and the food and drinks were incredible. It’s a perfect choice for couples.
Fika and dinosaurs!
Sunday morning we started with coffee at Espresso House, which is a bit like the Starbucks of Sweden, in that they’re absolutely everywhere, and it’s a good example of the Swedish fika habit of stopping for coffee and something sweet.
We were some of the first people to visit the Dinos Experience, as it opened the week we visited. It has 26 animatronic dinosaurs, two complete skeletons and three skulls. The space beneath the island has been turned into a prehistoric landscape with sound, light, wind and even smells, along with a bistro and bar. It’s brilliant for families, and surprisingly fun as a couple too!
As our time in this incredible city drew to a close, we wandered around Gamla Stan, browsing shops and cafés along cobbled streets. The area dates back to the 13th century, and it’s lovely just amble with no particular direction. Then it was the Arlanda Express back to the airport and home.
Why Stockholm works for a short city retreat
Stockholm is compact, easy to navigate and full of variety, which makes it ideal for a long weekend. It’s great for couples, with its romantic restaurants, rooftop bars, cosy cafés and the intimate feel of Gamla Stan. It also works well for a family weekend away, thanks to the dinosaurs, the amphibious bus, the Viking Museum and the Vasa.
The flight is short, the airport transfer is super convenient, and it's a highly walkable city. Water is never far away, which gives the whole city a calm, restorative feel. I came home feeling refreshed and ready to share Stockholm with clients looking for a short break that feels like a true European escape.
