Winter in Quebec: Husky Sleds, Frozen Fjords & Cosy Firesides

Touchdown in Montreal: First Impressions of Quebec in Winter

I flew direct to Montreal with Air Canada, which made the journey smooth and straightforward. Service onboard was excellent, and as we approached Canada the view from the window was breathtaking: endless forests, frozen rivers and vast expanses of white wilderness stretching all the way to the horizon. It is the sort of arrival that instantly whets the appetite for adventure.

Montreal Airport itself is busy, and this really hit home on arrival. It took nearly an hour just to get a taxi from the airport rank, which is not ideal after a long flight and in sub-zero temperatures. I would always recommend pre-booking a private transfer when arriving into Montreal in winter. It takes the stress away and gives you a calm, comfortable start to your holiday.

I arrived at the hotel just in time for the G Adventures welcome meeting and, importantly, my first traditional poutine of the trip: piping hot chips, cheese curds and rich gravy, absolutely perfect comfort food on a freezing January evening.

Heading North: Into the Quebec Wilderness

The next morning we left the city behind and headed up into the remote Quebec wilderness. Our base was Auberge du Cap au Leste, perched directly above the spectacular Saguenay Fjord and river. In summer I am sure the drive is fairly routine, but in deep winter, with heavy snow on the ground, it became a nine-hour adventure in a slightly rickety minibus.

The further north we travelled, the thicker the snowbanks grew at the roadside and the more dramatic the scenery became. Pine forests dusted in white, frozen lakes, and skies that shifted between steel grey and brilliant blue: it felt like travelling into another world.

Just How Cold Is Quebec in Winter?

Quebec in January is not for the faint-hearted when it comes to temperatures. During our stay at Cap au Leste we saw the mercury drop as low as -27°C.

This kind of cold is a very different sensation to a chilly day in the UK. It bites at any exposed skin, your eyelashes can frost over, and phones and camera batteries drain quickly. But with the right clothing it is surprisingly manageable and incredibly rewarding:

• Layer up with thermal base layers, fleece mid-layers and a proper insulated winter jacket.
• Bring insulated gloves or mittens, a warm hat, buff or balaclava and thermal socks.
• Waterproof, insulated winter boots with good grip make a huge difference.

The upside of this intense cold is the quality of the snow: light, powdery and perfect for winter activities, with crisp blue skies that make the landscapes look almost unreal.

Auberge du Cap au Leste & the Saguenay Fjord

An Intimate Lodge in a Wild Setting

Auberge du Cap au Leste is a rustic, charming lodge resort spread out across several separate multi-room chalets, all set among the trees and overlooking the Saguenay Fjord. Each lodge is up to a ten-minute walk through the snow from the main restaurant building, which adds to the feeling of being in a little winter village.

Our room was cosy and comfortable, with simple but warm décor that suited the surroundings. It would easily sleep up to four, with a double bed plus bunk beds, making it an excellent option for families who want to share. Our lodge also had a shared living space with a log burner and huge windows that looked directly out over the fjord. It was the perfect place to thaw out with a hot drink after a day in the snow.

Food: A Genuine Highlight

One of the standout elements at Cap au Leste is the food. Lunch and dinner are both three-course affairs, served as a set-menu with a refined, almost fine-dining style. Expect hearty, beautifully presented dishes that make the most of local ingredients: rich soups, perfectly cooked meats, comforting sides and decadent desserts, all designed to warm you up from the inside out.

You might be in the middle of nowhere, but you eat incredibly well.

Activities at Cap au Leste: Three Days in a Winter Playground

I had four nights and three full days at Cap au Leste, and every day was packed with activity, fresh air and those “I can’t believe I’m here” moments.

Husky Dog Sledding

The absolute highlight was husky dog sledding. The experience included time at the kennels to meet the dogs (and some impossibly cute puppies), followed by a 2.5-hour sled ride through the surrounding forest.

Mushing your own team of huskies through snow-covered trails, under bright blue skies, with trees heavy with snow on either side, is pure magic. The only sounds are the dogs’ paws in the snow and the runners gliding over the trail. It feels both exhilarating and surprisingly peaceful at the same time.

Of course, in my case, there was a bit of extra drama. I misjudged a corner, flipped the sled and ended up completely buried in the snow. Once I had stopped laughing and brushed myself off, we were back on our way, but it made for a brilliant story and a reminder that this is a proper hands-on adventure.

Snowshoeing to a Lighthouse

We also enjoyed multiple snowshoe hikes. If you have never tried snowshoeing before, it is essentially hiking with wide frames attached to your boots, which helps you stay on top of deep snow. It is easy to pick up and a wonderful way to explore in winter.

One of my favourite outings was a snowshoe trek down to the river’s edge, where a beautiful lighthouse stands sentinel over the frozen landscape. The contrast of the white snow, deep blue river and colourful structure made it one of the most photogenic spots of the trip.

Other Winter Activities

Cap au Leste offers a full programme of winter experiences, and we made the most of it:

• Ice fishing on the frozen surface, a very traditional Quebec activity.
• Ice hockey, getting a taste of Canada’s favourite sport in the most authentic conditions.
• Downhill sledding, for pure, childlike fun racing down the snowy slopes.
• Time in the onsite sauna and small pool, both with superb views over the fjord, ideal for soothing tired muscles after active days.

The balance between active adventure and slow, restorative moments by the fire or in the spa made the stay feel both energising and relaxing.

A Taste of Tradition: The Sugar Shack Experience

Leaving the fjord behind, we travelled south towards Quebec City, breaking the journey with a visit to a traditional sugar shack.

A sugar shack (or "cabane à sucre") is a maple syrup farm, usually set in the forest, where sap from the maple trees is collected and boiled down to create the iconic syrup. Many shacks offer hearty, family-style meals: think thick-cut ham, beans, pancakes, maple-laced desserts and plenty of rustic charm. In season, you can also see or learn about the syrup-making process.

If you have a sweet tooth or a love of local food traditions, a sugar shack stop is a must.

Quebec City: History, Charm & Snow-Dusted Streets

Arriving in Quebec City feels like stepping into a postcard. Cobblestone streets, elegant European-style architecture and the iconic silhouette of Château Frontenac watching over the frozen St Lawrence River. In winter, with snow piled against the old stone walls and twinkling lights in shop windows, it looks almost like a film set.

We enjoyed a guided tour around the city, which brought the history and culture of this unique francophone city to life: from the fortified walls and battlefields to the charming Petit-Champlain district. After the tour, we checked into our hotel for the night, with time to wander, warm up in cafés and soak up the atmosphere.

The following morning, we drove around four hours back to Montreal, said our goodbyes to the group and headed back into the city for a change of pace and some family time.

Montreal & Mont Tremblant: Skiing, Spas & AURA at Notre-Dame

With the tour complete, I had a couple of spare days to explore more of Quebec independently. These final days were a lovely blend of activity and indulgence.

Skiing at Mont Tremblant

We headed to Mont Tremblant, one of Quebec’s best-known ski resorts. The village itself has a charming, colourful, alpine feel, and the slopes offer a good variety for different abilities, from gentle runs to more challenging terrain. It is a brilliant way to round off a winter trip, especially if you enjoy skiing but do not necessarily want a full week on the slopes.

Scandinave Spa, Mont Tremblant

After skiing, we spent time unwinding at the beautiful Scandinave Spa in Mont Tremblant. Set in nature, the spa focuses on thermal experiences: hot pools, cold plunges, saunas and relaxation areas, all designed to promote a sense of calm and wellbeing. There is also a Scandinave Spa in Montreal, but I particularly loved the Tremblant setting with its forested backdrop and peaceful ambiance.

This kind of experience adds a sense of luxury and deep relaxation to balance the active days.

AURA at Notre-Dame Basilica, Montreal

Back in Montreal, another standout moment was the AURA experience at Notre-Dame Basilica. This immersive light and sound show transforms the interior of the cathedral into a multi-sensory spectacle. Coloured lights, projections and music bring the architecture to life, highlighting the details of the wood carvings, stained glass and vaulted ceilings.

It is atmospheric, emotional and a wonderful way to experience one of Montreal’s most iconic buildings, particularly on a chilly winter evening.

Why Quebec in Winter Belongs on Your Travel Wishlist

Quebec in winter is unforgettable. It combines:

• True wilderness: frozen fjords, silent forests, vast snowy landscapes.
• Unique activities: husky sledding, snowshoeing, ice fishing, ice hockey and more.
• Cosy comfort: log fires, refined set menus in remote lodges, characterful city hotels.
• Culture & history: the European charm of Quebec City, the buzz of Montreal, and traditional experiences like sugar shacks.
• Relaxation & luxury: thermal spas, scenic saunas and special touches throughout.

If you are dreaming of a winter holiday that feels a world away from everyday life, Quebec offers that rare mix of adventure, culture and comfort.

If this has sparked ideas for your own Canadian winter escape, contact me to start planning your tailor-made itinerary.