Getting there

I flew from Stansted to Genoa, only about 2 hours, and it went really quickly. If you like a window seat, this is a good one to grab: flying over the Alps, with all the snowy peaks sticking up through the clouds, is just beautiful.

When we landed in Genoa, I had already booked a private transfer, so there was no stress at the airport. Straight into a comfortable car and off we went. It took about 50 minutes to get to our base for the weekend: Santa Margherita Ligure.

Top tip: For a short break, having a private transfer arranged in advance is worth it. You can just relax straight away and let the holiday begin. 

Santa Margherita Ligure: the perfect base

Santa Margherita Ligure was such a good choice as a base. It has that lovely, slightly cosmopolitan feel, but it is not over the top or intimidating.

You have:

• A pretty harbour with yachts dotted about
• A palm‑lined promenade to wander along
• Plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants
• Shops for a bit of browsing
• A handy train station to get you up and down the coast

Top tip: Staying in Santa Margherita gives you excellent value for money in this area and makes a brilliant base. You have everything you need right there, plus easy access to Portofino, Rapallo and the Cinque Terre.

Walking from Santa Margherita to Portofino

One of my absolute favourite parts of the trip was the coastal walk from Santa Margherita to Portofino. It is not a tough hike, more of a very scenic stroll, but the views are stunning.

The path hugs the coastline, with the sea glittering on one side and smart villas and lush gardens on the other. Along the way you pass little beach clubs and bars, perfect for a cold drink stop. We broke it up with a welcome drink halfway and just enjoyed the sunshine, the sea air and that “we’re really here” feeling.

By the time Portofino appears around the headland, with its famous harbour and pastel‑coloured houses stacked up the hillside, it really does feel like a proper “wow” moment.

Portofino: small but special

Portofino is tiny, but it really packs a punch.

We did not try to cram lots in or tick off everything. We simply:

• Grabbed gelato and sat by the harbour watching the boats glide in and out
• Wandered the cobbled streets and little back lanes
• Did a lot of people‑watching in the main square

It may be small, but it definitely has that glamorous “Italian Riviera” feel. A couple of hours here feels like a real treat.

When we were ready to head back, we took the local ferry from Portofino to Santa Margherita. It was around 10 euros per person, about 15 minutes, and the boats run regularly between the coastal towns.

Seeing the coastline from the water gave us a completely different perspective: pastel houses stacked on the hills, terraced gardens, little coves and rocky cliffs. You really appreciate how dramatic and beautiful this stretch of coast is. If you can, do at least one journey by boat.

Evenings in Santa Margherita

Evenings in Santa Margherita were just lovely and had a real buzz to them.

Picture this:

• A lively harbourfront with yachts moored up and people out for their evening passeggiata (stroll)
• Music and DJs in some bars, quieter wine bars in others
• Lots of al fresco dining, especially fresh seafood and fantastic pasta
• That classic Italian “we are in no hurry” atmosphere

The food was excellent everywhere we went: fresh fish, bowls of pasta, crisp white wine, delicious gelato, and of course plenty of Aperol Spritz.

Top tip: Do not expect to be rushed. In Italy, your server will not hover or bring the bill until you ask. Eating and drinking is meant to be enjoyed slowly, so relax into it. It is part of the joy of being there.

A day in the Cinque Terre

We set aside a full day to visit the Cinque Terre, and it was absolutely a highlight.

If you have not heard of it before, the Cinque Terre is a stretch of the Ligurian coast made up of five historic fishing villages:

• Monterosso al Mare
• Vernazza
• Corniglia
• Manarola
• Riomaggiore

They are famous for their colourful houses clinging to the cliffs, narrow lanes, little harbours, terraces of vineyards and olive trees, and incredible sea views.

Getting to the Cinque Terre by train

From Santa Margherita, we took the regional train to Monterosso al Mare. Tickets were around 7 euros each way, and the journey took roughly an hour, with the train hugging the coastline for much of the route.

Top tip: The regional trains in this area are brilliant. They are cheap, frequent, easy to use and a really convenient way to get around. You must get your train ticket validated before boarding the train otherwise fines will be given.

We decided to keep the day relaxed and only visited two of the five villages, Monterosso and Vernazza. We easily could have squeezed in more, but we were having such a lovely time taking everything at a super relaxed pace: people‑watching, eating fantastic pasta and enjoying long, leisurely Aperol Spritz looking out to sea.

Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso is the “beach resort” of the Cinque Terre, with a long sandy beach, rows of colourful parasols and that classic Italian seaside holiday feel.

We spent time wandering around the town, stopping for food, and watching people swimming in the crystal‑clear water. It feels more open and spacious than some of the other villages, which makes it a great place to start your Cinque Terre day.

Vernazza

From Monterosso we took the ferry to Vernazza. It was about 18 euros each and took around 15 minutes. Once again, the views from the boat were stunning, and we could see people walking the hilly trails between the villages high up on the cliffs.

Vernazza has a completely different feel to Monterosso. There is no big sandy beach here, but instead:

• A pretty little square right by the harbour
• People eating, chatting and soaking up the atmosphere
• Plenty of gelato on offer
• Lovely boutique shops selling locally produced pasta, sauces, olive oil, soaps and other Italian treats

We explored up behind the main streets, climbing steps and hills and finding quieter corners with beautiful views back down over the harbour. It felt really special, and it was very easy to just slow down and enjoy being there.

Later we took the ferry back to Monterosso, then the train back to Santa Margherita, happily tired after a full but relaxed day.

Top tip: If you plan to visit more than two of the Cinque Terre villages or do some of the hiking trails, it is worth looking at the Cinque Terre Card, which can cover access to the paths, local buses and optional unlimited train travel between Levanto and La Spezia.

Rapallo & a little hidden gem: Camogli

On another day we took the train from Santa Margherita to Rapallo. This is another wonderful town with a sweeping promenade and lots going on.

We happened to visit on Easter Sunday, and the place was alive with families out enjoying the day together. There are plenty of shops for all budgets, cafes, and spots to sit and watch local life. It feels like a real town rather than just a resort, which I really liked.

In the afternoon we hopped back on the train to a little hidden gem I have to share with you: Camogli.

Camogli felt like discovering somewhere that not many people know about:

• A beautiful, relaxed, laid‑back seaside town
• Colourful buildings lining the shore
• A pebbly beach and a quieter, more local feel

We spent hours strolling along the seafront, dipping in and out of little shops, relaxing in the restaurants and sitting on the beach watching the waves. It was peaceful and charming, and it quickly became one of my favourite places of the whole trip. A true gem.

Would I go back?

Yes, in a heartbeat.

For a 3 night break, this part of Italy was just perfect. It offered:

• Easy travel between towns by train and boat
• Fantastic food and drink everywhere we went
• A great mix of glamour (Portofino, the yachts, the harbourfront bars) and authentic everyday Italian life (Camogli, Rapallo, back streets and local shops)

You can do as much or as little as you like: coastal walks, boat trips, village‑hopping, or simply sitting with a drink and watching the world go by. It felt like exactly the right pace.

My top tips

If you are thinking of doing something similar, here are my main takeaways:

• Use the regional trains
  They are cheap, frequent and very easy to use. Ideal for getting between Santa Margherita, Rapallo, Genoa and the Cinque Terre.
• Consider the Cinque Terre Card
  If you want to visit several of the villages or walk the trails, the Cinque Terre Card is worth a look, as it can cover hiking paths, local buses and an option for unlimited train travel between Levanto and La Spezia.
• Wear trainers or flat shoes
  Leave the heels at home. There are lots of cobbled streets, steps and hills. Comfortable shoes will make your days so much more enjoyable.
• Slow down your meals
  Do not rush. Nobody will hurry you away from your table. Take your time over your pasta, seafood, wine or Spritz. Eating and drinking here is an experience to savour.
• Build in “nothing time”
  Some of the best bits of this trip were the unscheduled moments: sitting on a bench, looking at the sea, watching the boats and people‑watching in a square. Leave space in your days just to be there and enjoy it.
  
  

If you are now thinking “I quite fancy doing that”, contact me and I will happily help you put together your own version of this trip, tailored around what you love.