First Impressions: Sea Lions, Stars and Surging Waves

Our first full day in the Galápagos set the tone for the trip: exciting, immersive and a little bit wild.

The morning was spent snorkelling with sea lions, who treated us as if we were just another curious creature in their playground. Some lounged nearby casually watching us, while others darted and twisted through the water as if inviting us to join in their games.

In the afternoon we set off on a hike. I was very glad I had packed my walking boots, as the terrain does not feel like it was designed for humans at all: jagged volcanic rock, uneven paths and the occasional need to dodge a crab that had decided the trail belonged to it. We spotted colourful iguanas, bright red and orange crabs, lizards seemingly in every shade, and of course the famous boobies.

Getting back onto the tender boat felt like an episode of an endurance TV show. We had to time our steps between waves that would suddenly surge across the path, threatening to sweep us straight into the sea lions’ play area. All the while, we were watched by very large male sea lions with impressive teeth and surrounded by crabs scuttling in every direction.

As if that were not enough, there were turtles and rays gliding past the ship. After dark I stood on deck watching a pod of sharks chasing fish, the sea surface exploding with splashes in the moonlight. Overhead, the stars were incredible: some constellations I recognised, only upside down from what I am used to seeing at home, and others entirely new.

Blue-Footed Boobies and a 1700s Post Box Tradition

Day two brought one of the icons of the Galápagos: the blue-footed booby. Their feet really are bright blue, as if they have stepped in a pot of paint.

We explored Floreana, an island that felt completely different from the day before. One side was greener, with darker sand and an inland lagoon where flamingos feed. On the beach we saw sea turtle tracks in the sand from the night before, and of course there were giant iguanas, pelicans and endlessly entertaining sea lions, which seem to be everywhere and are very chatty neighbours.

We also visited the historic “post box”, a tradition dating back to the 1700s. Sailors once left letters there to be collected and hand-delivered by others travelling in the right direction. Today, you leave a postcard and look through the pile to see if there is one you can deliver by hand back home. I searched for something from Oxford, but no luck this time. I clearly need to send a few of my own.

In the sea off one side of the island were numerous stingrays, and after a previous near miss being swept shoreward by the waves into a very large group of sea lions I had been trying to avoid, I decided not to chance my luck with stingrays as well. Instead, I enjoyed the spectacle from the safety of the boat. The highlight of the day was an enormous pod of dolphins, arcing and racing alongside us, which felt utterly magical.

On the Hunt for Penguins and Cormorants

Day three began with a boat ride as we went in search of two of the Galápagos’ most special residents: the flightless cormorant and the Galápagos penguin.

On the way we saw baby sharks, eagle rays, golden rays and marine iguanas piled together in great writhing heaps on the rocks, warmed by the sun. Pelicans swooped and dived with their clumsy grace. We ticked off one of our targets, the flightless cormorant, which has surprisingly large feet and is astonishingly fast underwater. Penguins, however, eluded us.

In the afternoon we headed inland to visit giant tortoises and orange land iguanas. En route, our naturalist suddenly diverted the boat: whales had been spotted. We were incredibly lucky to see them up close, a real privilege that none of us took for granted. Still no penguins, though. I decided to keep believing that tomorrow would be “penguin day”.

Whales, Lava and the Elusive Penguin

Day four and the Galápagos continued to surprise. A pod of whales came very close to our tender boat, and we could have watched them for hours. Sea turtles also made an appearance, gliding so close to us that we could see every detail of their shells. Yellowtail fish flashed beneath the surface, and we were treated to the sight of baby fur seals playing.

Finally, I did get a penguin sighting: a single little head bobbing in the distance as it swam by. I took a photo and later added a ring so anyone looking would not miss it. It felt as though the penguins were playing a long game of hide and seek with me.

The landscape in this part of the islands was especially striking, all volcanoes and flows of dark lava. The area last had volcanic activity in September, a reminder that these islands are very much alive and always changing.

Bachelor Sea Lions and Conservation in Action

Day five took us to a bachelor colony of sea lions, which is exactly what it sounds like: males without harems spending their time mostly playing, posturing and occasionally dozing in great piles on the sand. Watching their interactions was endlessly entertaining, from mock fights to boisterous splashing in the shallows.

We also saw a tiny sea lion pup with its mother, which was as heart-meltingly adorable as you would imagine.

What really struck me that day was learning more about the conservation work going on in the islands. We heard how the government is protecting different iguana species by planting more cacti to restore and support their habitats. Between wildlife encounters and our time sailing past other islands en route to Santa Cruz, I was reminded how carefully managed this whole archipelago is and how delicate its balance remains.

Santa Cruz, Giant Tortoises and Giving Back

My final full day in the Galápagos was spent on Santa Cruz, one of the islands with a resident population. Here we visited the Charles Darwin Research Station, where they breed giant tortoises. This project, which began in the 1970s and is funded until 2050, has been crucial in bringing these iconic creatures back from the brink so they are no longer considered endangered.

Each island has its own distinct tortoise species, so the team at the research station are meticulous about ensuring that when the young tortoises are ready, they are returned to the correct island. In some cases this even involves helicopter transport. The pride and passion of the people working there was inspiring, and it was wonderful to see such a success story in conservation.

Later we travelled into the highlands, where I had the chance to plant tree saplings as part of a rewilding project. I left hoping that “my” trees will grow tall and strong, and that one day they will form part of a thriving forest.

We enjoyed lunch in the hills, accompanied by a folkloric show performed by local teenagers. They were clearly having a fantastic time showcasing their traditional dances and music, and it felt very special to be welcomed into their world, even briefly.

That evening we sailed to the other side of Santa Cruz, ready for an early morning flight back to Quito. I felt genuinely sad to be leaving such a magical place.

Reflections on an Extraordinary Journey

The Galápagos Islands exceeded my expectations in every way. I knew I would see wildlife, but I did not expect to feel so immersed in it, from sea lions and rays to giant tortoises, iguanas in all shapes and colours, flamingos, turtles and those unforgettable large pods of whales and dolphins that even our naturalists said were rare to witness in such numbers.

Travelling on Celebrity Flora, with its all-suite accommodation, superb local naturalists and excellent crew, made the experience feel both comfortable and deeply educational. Each day was filled with new discoveries, from volcanic landscapes and lagoons to conservation projects and community encounters. It was a true adventure, sometimes like stepping into a nature programme, sometimes like tackling an endurance challenge, and always filled with moments of quiet wonder.

If the Galápagos has been on your wish list, I can absolutely say it is every bit as special as you imagine, and more.

If you would like to plan your own Galápagos adventure or a wider South America itinerary that includes the islands, I would love to help you design a trip that matches your pace, interests and comfort level. Contact me to start planning your journey to this incredible part of the world.