Planning a Sri Lanka holiday and not sure where to start? As a Travel Counsellor based in Devon, I spent a full month travelling around Sri Lanka with my family as the first stop on our year long adventure through Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Singapore, Malaysia and Australia. That first hand experience means I can help you design a tailor made Sri Lanka itinerary that matches your travel style, whether you are travelling as a couple, family or with friends.

Sri Lanka quickly became one of our favourite destinations: a perfect mix of culture, wildlife, beaches and warm, welcoming people. Here is our route, what we loved, and some practical tips to help you plan your own Sri Lanka holiday.

Why Sri Lanka is perfect for a tailor made holiday

Sri Lanka is compact enough to explore in two to three weeks, yet incredibly varied, with ancient temples, tea covered hills, wildlife rich national parks and palm fringed beaches. It works beautifully for families looking for gentle adventure, couples who want a mix of culture, relaxation and scenery, and first time Asia travellers who would like something more authentic than a simple beach break.

One key thing when planning Sri Lanka is to work with the weather and monsoon seasons. Because we travelled in July and August, we focused our beach time on the east coast rather than the more popular south and west coasts, which are generally better from around December to May. Getting the seasons right is crucial if you want calm seas, sunshine and the best wildlife sightings.

When I design a Sri Lanka itinerary for my clients, I always start with the time of year, your must see highlights and how adventurous you want the trip to feel.

First stop on our Sri Lanka holiday: Negombo – time to land gently

We began in Negombo, just north of Colombo, with two nights to acclimatise after the long haul flights. It was exactly what we needed: a wide golden beach for sunset strolls, some relaxed pool time to recover from jet lag and our very first chicken kottu. This chopped roti dish with vegetables, egg and spices quickly became a family favourite and felt like the perfect introduction to Sri Lankan food.

Having this gentle start made such a difference and set the tone for a relaxed, enjoyable Sri Lanka holiday.

Sigiriya & Dambulla: Sri Lanka’s lush green heart

From the coast we headed inland to Sigiriya, our first glimpse of Sri Lanka’s lush green interior. This area, often called the Cultural Triangle, is packed with history and scenery.

From Sigiriya, we visited Dambulla Cave Temple, still one of our favourite temples anywhere in the world. The series of caves is filled with incredible Buddha statues and colourful ceiling paintings, and the views from the top are beautiful.

Sigiriya Rock itself is iconic, and many visitors climb to the top. Travelling with younger children, we decided not to climb it on this trip. Instead, we took a tuk tuk all the way around the rock, stopping at different viewpoints for photos. It gave us lovely angles and the children really enjoyed the ride. Looking back, after a year of travel our youngest would now climb it with no problem at all. That is one of the gifts travel gave her: a real “can‑do” attitude and confidence!

Minneriya National Park: unforgettable elephants

Next came one of our trip highlights: Minneriya National Park for an elephant safari. We visited in July, which is a fantastic time to see elephants as they emerge from the jungle in large numbers to find water. Watching herds grazing, socialising and moving across the landscape was incredibly special.

If you can, it is worth going early in the morning or later in the afternoon when it is cooler and the light is softer. We saw plenty of elephants and were lucky enough to spot a large crocodile basking by the water as well. Seeing elephants in the wild like this is something our children still talk about and it is exactly the sort of wildlife experience I love to build into my clients’ Sri Lanka itineraries.

Uga Ulagalla, near Anuradhapura: a very special stay

From Minneriya we travelled to Uga Ulagalla, near Anuradhapura. This was my absolute favourite hotel of our entire trip. Some places are not just about five star facilities, although this property certainly has those, but about the feeling they create.

We were welcomed with a beautiful ceremony of bells and candles. From the moment we arrived, we were made to feel genuinely special and nothing was too much trouble. Our villa came with its own private pool set in the middle of the jungle, so we would sit by the water watching monkeys swinging through the trees and peacocks wandering past.

The girls joined the junior ranger programme, heading out at dawn and dusk to learn about local wildlife. They spotted scorpions, birds and all sorts of fascinating creatures and absolutely loved it. We also took a jeep tour through the local area which ended with a picnic at a reservoir at sunset. As we sat there, we even saw an elephant crossing the river towards us, one of those magical, pinch yourself travel moments. Another morning we were out kayaking at sunrise, paddling through calm water with mist rising over the fields.

The food was a highlight in its own right, with three course menus at lunch and dinner on a rotating basis so we never got bored. There is also a stunning fine dining restaurant set in the middle of the working rice paddy. We sadly did not have time to try it, but it looked phenomenal and I would absolutely recommend it to clients.

I make a point of either staying in or personally visiting as many hotels as I can on my travels, so that when I recommend somewhere like Uga Ulagalla it is based on first hand experience of the rooms, service and overall feel. Over time I have built up strong relationships with hotel management teams in Sri Lanka and beyond, which means I can often add thoughtful touches, arrange special experiences and ensure my clients are especially well looked after throughout their stay.

You can read my full review of our stay here

Trincomalee & Pigeon Island: laid back east coast beaches

From here we headed to Trincomalee for five days of beach time on the east coast. The town has a relaxed, low key atmosphere with simple beach bars, hammocks and plenty of places to watch the ocean. We drank so many fresh fruit juices and smoothies here; in many places it really was just the fruit itself, juiced or blended, and we still talk about how good they were compared with anywhere else on our year away.

We took a boat trip out to Pigeon Island, just off the coast, for snorkelling. The marine life was vibrant, with lots of colourful fish and corals. It can get busy at peak times, so it is worth visiting either earlier or later in the day if you prefer things a little quieter.

We also visited Koneswaram Temple, which sits dramatically on a headland with sweeping sea views. The site is layered with history, including stories linked to former military and colonial use in the area, so it is a fascinating stop if you enjoy combining culture, history and scenery.

Arugam Bay: Surfers Paradise

From Trincomalee we travelled down the coast, stopping briefly in Passikudah to look at a few hotels, before continuing to Arugam Bay. This small town is famous for its surf. There are waves for both beginners and more confident surfers, a laid back strand of beach bars and cafés, and a barefoot, bohemian feel that suits couples, friends and families.

It is the kind of place where you quickly slip into a gentle routine of beach time, surfing, relaxed meals and sunset walks, and it works brilliantly as part of a wider Sri Lanka holiday.

Into tea country: Nuwara Eliya & the famous train to Ella

From the east coast we headed inland once again to Nuwara Eliya, high in the hills and surrounded by tea plantations. The cooler climate and misty mornings made it feel almost like a different country after the heat of the beaches.

This is classic tea country and pairs well with a visit to Kandy, the historic city famous for its temple, lake and cultural performances. If you have slightly longer, I often recommend including Kandy at this stage to break up the journey and add more cultural depth.

Our main reason for staying in Nuwara Eliya was to catch the train to Ella. The full Kandy to Ella route can take around nine hours, which felt a bit long with the children, so we opted for the shorter Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) to Ella section. This is the most scenic part of the journey, passing rolling tea plantations, tiny stations and cloud topped hills, but only took a few hours.

The journey itself was every bit as beautiful as we had hoped. We leant at the doors for that classic Sri Lanka train photo, watched tea pickers at work on the hillsides and saw endless shades of green drift past. The ticket buying process can be a little tricky, with different classes and limited reserved seats, so it is definitely something I help clients with when building their itineraries.

Ella: a small town with a big heart

We spent four nights in Ella and I could easily have stayed longer. It is a friendly little mountain town with plenty to do but a relaxed pace that works so well for visitors.

One day we visited a tea factory to see how the leaves are picked and processed, followed by a tasting of the different teas. We hiked up to Little Adam’s Peak, which rewarded us with fantastic views and felt very achievable for active children. The kids absolutely loved the zip line over a ravine, which added a little adrenaline to the trip, and we also visited Ravana Falls for a change of scenery and some great photos.

We also made time to visit the famous Nine Arch Bridge, one of the most photographed spots in Sri Lanka. Ssurrounded by jungle and misty hills, it felt like stepping into a postcard. It is a simple experience but a real highlight and something I always recommend including in an Ella stay.

A particularly meaningful stop for us was Dogs of Ella, a local charity caring for street dogs. Sri Lanka has a real issue with stray dogs and it can be heartbreaking to see. Learning about the charity’s work and making a donation was important to us and gave the children a way to feel they were helping.

In between all of this, we enjoyed wandering around town, dipping into cafés and small shops, and simply soaking up the easygoing atmosphere.

Tangalle & the south coast: wild beaches and jungle backdrop

Leaving the mountains behind, we headed down to the south coast, basing ourselves around Tangalle. We stayed in a couple of different hotels along this stretch, each very different but both absolutely beautiful.

This coastline is known for its wide, often almost empty beaches and the way the lush green jungle runs right down to the sand. Compared with some more developed resort areas, it still feels a little wilder and more off the beaten track, which we loved.

Because we travelled in July and August, we knew we were taking a bit of a weather risk on the south coast. The sea was too rough for safe swimming while we were there, but we were lucky with plenty of sunshine and warm days. I would love to return in the best season to experience these beaches when the sea is calm.

While staying in and around Tangalle we visited a small tsunami museum, a turtle sanctuary and a moonstone mine, and we explored various coastal towns and viewpoints along the way. It was a powerful mix of natural beauty, local life and recent history.

Galle: history, shopping and sunset strolls

We finished this section of our Sri Lanka journey with a couple of nights in Galle. The 17th century fort and lighthouse make it one of the most atmospheric places we visited. We spent our time wandering the ramparts at sunset, exploring the narrow streets lined with boutiques and galleries, and enjoying some lovely restaurants. Galle has a romantic, historic feel and makes a memorable finale to a Sri Lanka itinerary.

The tastes, sights and wildlife that stay with you

Looking back, what we remember most about Sri Lanka is less a list of “things we did” and more a collection of feelings and little details.

Breakfasts were always a highlight: colourful plates of fresh fruit (I miss those tiny sweet bananas!), stacks of pancakes or local breads and fragrant dishes like dhal and rice. Across the country we found fresh juices and smoothies that were simply the fruit itself, juiced or blended. We still talk about how good they were compared with anywhere else on our year away.

Wildlife was everywhere, not just in the national parks. We saw elephants grazing by the roadside, monkeys racing along electricity wires, peacocks strutting through hotel gardens and cows wandering casually along the beach or resting outside tiny shops. It felt as though nature was woven into everyday life.

Leaving Sri Lanka… for now

I could not believe how quickly our month in Sri Lanka went. Even with four weeks we did not see everything, and we all agreed we would love to return.

For me, Sri Lanka really is a feeling: lush green jungle meeting wild, windswept beaches; rice drying on the roadside; the smell of spices; tuk tuks weaving through markets and temples; the taste of freshly cooked curries, string hoppers and tropical fruit.

Most of all, it is the people. We were met with kindness and generosity everywhere we went, and so often someone went out of their way to help us or make the children smile. That warmth is a big part of why I love sending clients to Sri Lanka.

Ready to plan your Sri Lanka holiday?

If you are thinking about a trip to Sri Lanka, I would love to help you bring it to life.

When you book with me as your personal Travel Counsellor, you benefit from my first hand knowledge of Sri Lanka and wider Asia from our own travels, as well as personally inspected and handpicked hotels, from characterful boutiques to luxury hides like Uga Ulagalla. My trusted relationships with hotel management teams help me add special touches, arrange memorable experiences and ensure you are especially well looked after.

Every itinerary I create is completely tailor made around your dates, interests and budget, and we can also combine Sri Lanka with other South East Asia destinations or The Madlives for an unforgettable multi centre adventure.

If Sri Lanka is calling you, get in touch and let us start planning your perfect Sri Lanka holiday today.