If there's one moment that perfectly captures the unpredictability of safari, it happened before I'd even reached my accommodation.

Leaving Kruger Gate behind, my transfer to Tshokwane River Camp wasn't simply a journey from A to B – it was my  first game drive. Less than an hour after entering Kruger National Park, the driver gently slowed the vehicle before coming to a stop. Walking calmly alongside us was a magnificent lion, still stained with blood from an earlier kill. There was no rush, no drama and no sound other than the clicking of cameras and a collective intake of breath. It was one of those moments that reminds you very quickly that this is nature on its own terms.

As I continued deeper into the park, the wildlife encounters kept coming. Elephants wandered through the bush, giraffes browsed lazily among the trees, zebras grazed alongside wildebeest and hippos wallowed in the water. By the time I reached camp, I had already experienced more wildlife than many people see in an entire holiday.

This year marks the centenary of Kruger National Park, celebrating one hundred years of protecting one of Africa's most remarkable wilderness areas. It felt incredibly special to be visiting during such a significant milestone, particularly knowing that every game drive contributes towards conserving this extraordinary landscape for generations to come.

Arriving at Tshokwane River Camp felt like stepping into another world. Affectionately known as the 'Vanishing Camp', it exists for only six months of the year before nature reclaims the riverbed during the rainy season. Rather than trying to tame the wilderness, the camp works in harmony with it, creating one of the most immersive safari experiences I've ever had.

If you're imagining camping, think again.

Each luxury safari tent is beautifully appointed with elegant furnishings, crisp linens, electricity, USB charging points and a proper en-suite bathroom with a flushing toilet. Every evening, hot water is delivered directly to your tent, allowing you to enjoy one of the most memorable showers of your life beneath a canopy of African stars. I took every opportunity to do exactly that. After all... why wouldn't you?

Each morning began quietly on my private deck with a cup of tea while watching the riverbed slowly come to life. Tiny mongoose darted between the rocks, birds filled the air with song and, for a brief moment, everything felt wonderfully still.

One of my favourite discoveries was the wonderfully named Go-away Bird. The first time I heard its distinctive call, I couldn't help but laugh because it genuinely sounds as though it's saying "go away!" It's those unexpected little moments that somehow stay with you just as much as the famous wildlife.

Of course, safari at Tshokwane is about so much more than simply spotting animals.

What truly sets this camp apart is its walking safaris.

These aren't gentle nature walks; they're genuine safari experiences led by exceptionally skilled guides whose knowledge is nothing short of extraordinary. Their training extends far beyond identifying wildlife. They teach you how to read footprints in the sand, understand animal behaviour, recognise medicinal plants, identify birds by their calls and appreciate how every tree, insect and scent contributes to the delicate balance of the ecosystem.

Walking through the bush heightens every sense. The earthy smell of the vegetation changes as you move through different landscapes, birds call overhead, insects buzz quietly in the background and every snapped twig suddenly becomes significant. It gives you an entirely new appreciation of the African wilderness that simply isn't possible from the comfort of a vehicle.

The afternoon and evening game drives continued to deliver unforgettable moments. One evening I  watched as a leopard emerged from the darkness to drink quietly at the water's edge, illuminated only by the fading light. It was silent, graceful and completely mesmerising.

Back at camp, evenings were spent gathered around the riverside boma beneath an endless canopy of stars. The distant roar of lions, the unmistakable splash of hippos and the occasional call of a hyena provided the soundtrack while enjoying pre-dinner drinks around the fire. Dinner itself was equally memorable. Considering everything is prepared from a bush kitchen, the quality was exceptional, offering everything from vibrant salads and comforting favourites to adventurous dishes such as crocodile carpaccio. Whatever your tastes, there was always something to tempt you.

What made Tshokwane even more special, however, were the people. By the end of our stay, the team already knew our names, remembered our favourite drinks and welcomed us back after every game drive like old friends returning home. It was luxury, certainly, but luxury delivered with genuine warmth rather than formality.

Reluctantly, it was time to move on.

Once again, my  transfer became another game drive before an altogether different sight appeared on the horizon.

As we rounded the bend, Kruger Shalati came into view.

Quite honestly, there are very few words capable of describing that first impression other than simply... wow.

Suspended high above the Sabie River on a beautifully restored railway bridge, the iconic train seems to float effortlessly above the landscape. Even before stepping inside, you know you're about to experience somewhere truly extraordinary.

Walking along the elevated bridge towards our carriage, elephants with two playful calves wandered peacefully through the riverbed beneath us. There was no need to search for wildlife here—it simply unfolded below you.

Opening the door to my carriage quite literally took my breath away.

The attention to detail is remarkable. Rich fabrics, elegant décor and beautifully curated furnishings celebrate the romance of historic rail travel while embracing every element of modern luxury. Almost an entire wall of glass frames uninterrupted views across the river, meaning whether you're relaxing with a gin and tonic in the lounge, waking in bed at sunrise or soaking in the freestanding bath, the African wilderness is always centre stage.

Even the open-plan bathroom has been designed to maximise those incredible views. Lying back in a warm bath while watching elephants wander through the river below is an experience I'll never forget.

At the heart of the train sits perhaps its most photographed feature: the suspended pool deck. Floating high above the Sabie River, it's the perfect place to cool off during the warmer months or simply relax with a drink in hand. I should add one small word of warning for anyone visiting during the South African winter... the water is definitely refreshing!

Dining at Kruger Shalati is every bit as impressive as the accommodation itself. Having earned two Michelin Keys, expectations are naturally high, yet somehow the experience still exceeds them. Every meal feels thoughtfully curated, and guests with dietary requirements receive personalised menus prepared especially for them—a lovely touch that reflects the hotel's exceptional attention to detail.

One evening, the sommelier took the time to understand my tastes before recommending wines perfectly matched to each course. It's these little personal touches that elevate a luxury stay into something truly memorable.

Morning and afternoon game drives continued to provide extraordinary wildlife encounters. Wrapped beneath blankets with hot water bottles keeping away the early morning chill, we headed back into Kruger in search of whatever the bush wished to reveal.

We were rewarded beyond anything I could have imagined.

Leopards, elephants, buffalo, hyenas, giraffes, zebras, impala, kudu and countless other species all made unforgettable appearances. Watching a leopard emerge while we enjoyed sundowner drinks was one of those magical safari moments that simply can't be planned.

Perhaps the greatest privilege of all came on my final drive when we encountered one of Kruger's rarest residents—a pack of endangered African wild dogs with their playful puppies. With only around 350 remaining within the entire national park, it's a sighting few visitors are fortunate enough to experience, and one I know I'll treasure forever.

Although the rhino remained elusive, somehow it didn't matter.

Safari isn't about completing a checklist.

It's about the stories.

It's about hearing lions call across the bush as darkness falls.

It's about showering beneath a sky filled with stars.

It's about waking to birdsong and laughing at the unmistakable call of a Go-away Bird.

It's about watching baby elephants play beneath your room and sharing silent glances with strangers as a leopard slips effortlessly through the long grass.

Kruger National Park gave me all of those moments and so many more.

As I  left the park behind, I realised I'd experienced two completely different ways of exploring the African wilderness. Tshokwane River Camp had immersed me in the bush, allowing me to hear it, smell it and truly understand it. Kruger Shalati had offered an altogether different perspective, inviting me to witness the wild from one of the most extraordinary hotels I've ever had the privilege of staying in.

If I were asked to choose between them, I simply couldn't.

Together, they created a safari experience that I'll never forget.