The Safari Experience

This is what it's all about.

Game drives are done in open vehicles and last around three hours. You head out at 6am as intrepid wildlife spotters, looking for tracks and evidence of animals having passed through. Yes, I can now identify all different types of dung. We could even smell a herd of elephants hidden close by in the trees before we saw them. The anticipation is real, and there is a genuine sense of accomplishment once spotted.

These parks may not be teeming with wildlife in the way the larger reserves are, but what comes with that is often having the exclusive position for the wow moment. In our case, a couple of lionesses just chilling in the sun after feasting on a newly caught wildebeest. Watching those regal animals in a state of pure contentment was truly special.

For the Big Five, we headed to Welgevonden Game Reserve and Kaingo, and these were definite highlights. Lions, rhino, buffalo, elephant... we saw four of the five. We also watched male giraffes fighting, spotted baby zebras and warthogs, and spent a memorable stretch tracking elephants, following prints, listening for sounds, reading the dung, before finally finding them. That patience and pursuit made the moment even more special.

The night safari was something else entirely. The sounds in the dark are extraordinary, and seeing a crocodile by torchlight is genuinely quite unsettling.

The early mornings can be bitterly cold with the wind, so warm layers are advised and they also provide blankets.

The Giraffes — My Personal Highlight

Sebatana itself doesn't have the Big Five roaming freely, which means something rather special becomes possible. You can actually walk out into the reserve without a guide, as long as you're with at least one other person and keep to a safe path.

There are over 150 giraffes in the park, and the chances of encountering them on a morning stroll are high. My highlight was coming across a group of seven, two of them babies. They are nervous of humans, and the moment they spot you, they all look straight at you. Standing around 25 metres away, just watching each other, our staring competition lasted about 10 minutes before they gracefully moved into the deeper bush. It was incredibly moving and, for me, the highlight of the entire trip. It's an experience simply not possible in the bigger parks.

Beyond the Game Drives

The week offered far more than just safari drives. Standout experiences included a bush dinner under the stars, a champagne brunch out in the reserve, sundowners at Sunset Rock, wildlife talks, and a visit to Johannesburg and Soweto including the Apartheid Museum.

The tribal night was a highlight for everyone, watching the dancing, getting involved, eating traditional food with our hands. And something that genuinely caught me off guard: during our first breakfast, and again as we were leaving, the staff came out and sang to us. It was emotional and humbling in equal measure.

One of our group favourites was a crocodile named Virginia, residing in her own pond, mainly submerged apart from her eyes occasionally rising to the surface. Our guide Victor brought the whole experience to life. His knowledge, warmth and the banter he had with the group added a layer of joy to what was already an exhilarating week.

The Lodge

Rhino East Lodge has only 10 rooms, so it really is an intimate experience from the start. The rooms are spacious, with both a bath and separate shower, air con, and a veranda that's perfect for sitting out on. If you opt for the drinks package, your minibar is included and restocked daily, a nice touch. Everything is kept immaculately clean and well maintained. It just feels easy and comfortable to be there.

There are four lodges within the reserve, Rhino East being the smallest and most intimate, plus a gym, spa, tennis and paddle courts, and a shop on site. The pool area is a real highlight: a large infinity pool overlooking the bush, a hot tub-style pool, and a shallow pool, with modern sun loungers and towels provided.

Switching Off (Properly)

One of the biggest things you notice here is how easy it is to genuinely switch off. WiFi is only available near the bar, and even with an eSIM there's virtually no signal in the rooms. At first you notice it, then you stop caring quite quickly. Evenings end up being spent chatting, having a drink, and getting to know the other guests and staff. It's a really lovely atmosphere.

Who It Suits

This is an adult-focused trip and those that are happy to be in a group. The early starts, the pace, and the overall rhythm mean it's best suited to couples, friends, or older teenagers. There is a shallow pool, but it's not somewhere I'd recommend for younger children.

Getting There

Getting there is more straightforward than you might expect. We flew direct from Heathrow to Johannesburg (around 10 hours), then it's a 3.5–4 hour transfer into the reserve. It sounds long, but it's broken up with stops and genuinely feels like part of the experience. Once you turn off onto the dirt roads and head into the reserve, everything shifts. It feels remote and peaceful almost immediately.

The Practical Bit

Bring binoculars, you'll use them constantly. A good camera helps, though newer phones are absolutely fine. Pack warm layers for the early mornings. And go prepared for downtime in between game drives.

Final Thoughts

At the start of the week, none of us in the group had met before. By the end of it, we'd all left as friends, having shared a genuine bucket list experience and made memories that will stay with us.