A Long Weekend in Guernsey: Beaches, Memories and a Touch of Magic
Guernsey will always mean more to me than just pretty beaches and sea views. It is where my Dad lives with his partner and, although this trip was ultimately about spending time with them, I was determined to squeeze in some exploring too. It had been a number of years since my last visit, so I was excited to rediscover the island through fresh eyes.
Driftwood Inn: Turquoise Seas and Beachy Vibes
Our first stop was the Driftwood Inn in Perelle for a spot of lunch, and what a way to start the weekend. We took the coastal road and had a slight detour due to some time trials taking place on one road and a biker event on another. As we pulled up I was greeted by the most beautiful turquoise seas stretching out in front of us. If you did not know better, you would honestly think you were somewhere in the Mediterranean.
The restaurant itself has such a lovely feel: relaxed, with total beachy vibes that are completely my scene. Light, airy and laid-back without ever feeling casual in the wrong way. The food did not disappoint either. Portions were plentiful, beautifully presented and full of flavour, and I would happily go back just for the food alone. Combine that with those sea views and it really is a winning combination. The staff were friendly and attentive throughout, which just added to the overall experience. It is a place I would very happily recommend to anyone visiting the island.
Chasing Beaches: Wind, Jellyfish and a Whole Lot of Beauty
My only real request for the long weekend was simple: beaches. So, after lunch, we headed up to Pembroke Beach.
It was a fairly windy day, the kind that whips your hair about and reminds you that you are on a little island, but even with the breeze, Pembroke Beach was gorgeous. The sand was clean and well maintained, and there are really handy facilities directly above the beach, alongside the car park: a café, an ice cream cart and toilets, which makes it very easy to spend a few relaxed hours there.
The wind had washed up a few small jellyfish along the water’s edge, so you did need to watch where you were treading as you walked barefoot by the shore. As long as you are a bit mindful, it is absolutely fine, and it did not take away from my enjoyment at all. I really liked this beach and would happily return, ideally on a slightly calmer day to really make the most of the water. There were some windsurfers taking full advantage of the weather and, in the distance, I could hear the shooting range.
A Tiny Treasure: The Little Chapel
From the coast we made our way inland to one of Guernsey’s little gems: the Little Chapel. I had visited before, but it is one of those places that feels special every time you step inside.
I highly recommend a visit if you are on the island. From the outside it looks almost like something from a fairy tale, but it is when you get up close that you really start to appreciate the detail. The surfaces are covered in fragments of pottery and shells, and when you learn more about its history you realise just how much love and care has gone into creating and preserving it. In later years, some of the pottery used in the steps leading up to the church actually came from Wedgewood, which gives you an idea of the thought behind every tiny piece. It is a beautifully peaceful spot and a reminder that some of the most memorable places are not always the biggest.
Guernsey Candles: Nostalgia and Changing Times
Because it had been so long since my last visit, I was keen to go back to Guernsey Candles, a place that really stuck in my memory from previous trips. Last time I was there, I remember being completely amazed by some of the candles on display, especially an incredible eagle candle that stood a couple of feet tall. It felt unique and a little bit magical.
This time, the experience was a bit different. There were still some lovely candles, candlesticks and wax melts that would make gorgeous gifts for the home or for loved ones, and I would not hesitate to pick something up if I was looking for a present. However, the rest of the building felt much more focused on general giftware and “bits and bobs”: mugs, coasters, scarves, ornaments and other knick-knacks.
There is nothing wrong with any of it, and I am sure many visitors love browsing, but for me it felt like a noticeable shift from the candle-focused visit I remembered. I suspect it is a sign of the times and economics more than anything else, but I did leave feeling a little nostalgic for what it used to be.
An Evening at the Theatre: Beauty and the Beast
We rounded off the day with something completely different: a night at the Performing Arts Theatre to see a group of young performers recreating Beauty and the Beast.
It turned out to be a brilliant choice by my family. The cast were full of energy, clearly passionate about what they were doing, and it was such a joy to see how much effort had gone into the production. From the costumes to the musical numbers, it was a really enjoyable performance and we all came away impressed and proud of what these young actors had achieved. It was also a lovely reminder that even on a relatively small island you can still enjoy a proper night at the theatre.
Sunday by the Sea: St Sampson to St Peter Port
Sunday morning began exactly how I like it: with a walk by the sea. I set off along the beach and coastline from St Sampson to St Peter Port, a route that really shows off Guernsey’s character. The beach here is a mix of sand and larger stones, but it is beautiful all the same, with that endless, calming view out to the water.
It is only a short walk from the main road, which makes it very accessible whether you are on foot or using public transport, and it is easy to dip in and out of the coastal path. As I followed the road towards St Peter Port there were a few shops dotted along the way, gradually leading into the busier area of town, then on to the main high street and the harbour.
Down at the harbour itself there is always something to watch. Boats of all shapes and sizes are moored here, from little local craft to larger vessels, and there is a constant feeling of movement. St Peter Port is Guernsey’s main gateway, with regular passenger and ferry services linking the island to the UK and France, as well as crossings to the nearby islands of Herm and Sark. On some days you will also see visiting cruise ships anchored just outside the harbour, with tenders shuttling guests back and forth, which adds to the sense that this is a small island very connected to the wider world. It is the kind of place where you can happily sit with a drink and simply watch harbour life unfold.
I spent the next few hours enjoying some quality family time, which was the main reason for my trip after all, before heading back out to walk the same coastal route again in the early evening. There is something incredibly soothing about repeating a walk you enjoyed earlier in the day, seeing it in a different light. I love being by the beach and the sea, and here it felt especially calming: the sound of the waves, the changing colours of the water, and that gentle sea air that clears your head.
Monday in St Peter Port: Cafés, Cobbles and Stories
On Monday we drove into St Peter Port with a simple plan: breakfast, a wander and a bit of shopping.
We started at the harbour café, White Rock, which sits right by the water. It was already busy when we arrived, and it felt like the kind of place that is well used by people who work nearby and know exactly what they like. The food was good, the service was quick, and it does exactly what you want from a harbour café. The main seating area inside felt a little cramped when it was at its busiest, but there is extra seating outside too. On a calmer, sunnier day I would definitely choose to sit out there and enjoy the view, but on this particular morning it was just that bit too windy to be tempting.
From White Rock it is only about a five-minute walk to the main high street. The town is very compact, which makes it ideal for wandering without needing to plan too much. The high street itself is set on the hillside, so you are very quickly walking up gentle slopes and cobbled streets. It is lined with a nice mix of shops, restaurants, cafés and banks, and you really do get the sense of a working town rather than a place that exists only for tourists. That said, the incline and uneven surfaces could be challenging for anyone with mobility issues, so it is worth bearing that in mind.
I felt very lucky to be exploring with my Dad, who has lived on the island for over 20 years and makes a brilliant tour guide. As we walked he shared stories about the island and its history, particularly around the German occupation during the Second World War. He pointed out a wall down by the harbour that had been shot at, with the marks still visible today. It is quite sobering to see that kind of detail in an otherwise pretty setting, and it really brings the history to life.
The island is steeped in these layers of history. From the imposing Castle Cornet guarding the harbour to the network of wartime tunnels, bunkers and fortifications scattered along the coastline, there are constant reminders of Guernsey’s strategic importance and the impact of the occupation years. You can visit sites like the German Underground Hospital and various coastal batteries to get a deeper understanding of what life was like here during the war. Alongside that, there are gentler historic touches too: handsome old granite buildings, traditional parish churches and literary connections such as Victor Hugo’s former home, all of which add to the island’s unique character.
Exploring St Peter Port with my Dad, hearing his stories and seeing the small details he pointed out, made me appreciate just how much this little island holds: everyday life, dramatic history and simple seaside pleasures, all wrapped up together.
Why Guernsey Stole My Heart (Again)
My final day in Guernsey was deliberately slow and unhurried (just what you need to take it all in). Knowing I was travelling home on Monday evening gave me the perfect excuse to simply wander, soak up the sea air and enjoy those last, easy moments with my Dad. No big agenda, no rushing around, just time: by the harbour, in the little side streets, and looking out to the water that has become such a familiar backdrop to his life.
That is what Guernsey does so well. It offers you the chance to press pause without feeling like you have stepped away from everything. There is history everywhere you turn, from wartime stories etched into harbour walls to tiny chapels covered in delicate mosaics. There are beaches for blustery walks and turquoise bays that look like they belong in the Med. There are friendly cafés where the staff remember your order, lively harbours where ferries and fishing boats constantly come and go, and quiet corners where you can simply sit and watch the tide. The winding roads can really make it feel like an exploration to see where you will come out next.
For me, this trip was about reconnecting with family, but it also reminded me what a fantastic destination Guernsey is for a long weekend or a short escape. It feels familiar yet different, close to home yet wonderfully away from it all.
If you are looking for somewhere that combines beautiful coastline walks, fascinating history, great food and a genuinely relaxed pace of life, Guernsey is a brilliant choice. Whether you are dreaming of beach walks and sea views, exploring wartime sites, hopping over to the neighbouring islands, or simply unwinding with good food and good company, I can really recommend Guernsey as the island to do it.