Xi’an: Where China’s Ancient Soul Meets the Silk Road
There are some cities you visit once and enjoy, and others that get under your skin. For me, Xi’an firmly belongs in the second group. I arrived as part of a China, Tibet and Everest trek, expecting a quick history fix before heading for the mountains. Instead, I found a city where ancient walls still guard the streets, legendary warriors stand watch beneath the earth, and the smell of sizzling street food drifts through lantern‑lit alleys. I even survived the most intense massage of my life and woke up feeling like a brand‑new person. This is the story of my time in Xi’an: where China’s ancient soul meets the Silk Road, and where two nights were nowhere near enough.
Xi’an: Where China’s Ancient Soul Meets the Silk Road
I visited Xi’an as part of my China, Tibet and Everest trek, and it completely stole my heart. This truly stunning ancient city was my favourite place in China: from the magnificent city walls dating back to the 14th century to its bustling Muslim Quarter, Xi’an has so much to offer.
Meeting the Terracotta Army
Ask most travellers what draws them to Xi’an and they will say one thing: the Terracotta Army. Around an hour north‑east of the city, Emperor Qin Shihuang’s Mausoleum Site Museum is home to one of the world’s greatest archaeological discoveries.
In vast excavation halls, thousands of life‑sized warriors, horses and chariots stand in precise battle formation. Each figure has unique facial features, armour and hairstyles. Created more than 2,000 years ago to guard the tomb of China’s first emperor, many more remain buried and are still being uncovered today. Seeing them in person is one of those “pinch‑me” travel moments that no photograph can really prepare you for.
Walking the City Walls
Xi’an has been the capital for several of China’s most important dynasties, and you can still feel that sense of importance today. The mighty city walls, dating back to the 14th century, still encircle the heart of the city.
Walking or cycling along the ramparts at sunset is one of the most atmospheric ways to take it all in. Below you, everyday life plays out in busy streets, while in the distance the skyline of modern Xi’an rises beyond grey‑tiled roofs.
I decided to walk the full 8.5 miles of the walls and just marvelled at the life going on below: families shopping, friends meeting, scooters weaving through traffic. The sheer size and length of the walls really makes you think about how great and formidable the city must have been hundreds of years ago.
The Massage I Will Never Forget
After my walk on the wall, a couple of fellow travellers and I decided a massage would be just the thing to ease our aches and pains. Spoiler alert: I cried. Like a baby.
My masseuse was this tiny Chinese lady who somehow had the strength of a professional wrestler. She hopped around me, prodding and pulling in ways I did not know were medically possible. At one point I was convinced her fingers were going to come straight out the top of my feet; tears were streaming down my face and I was seriously questioning my life choices.
Then she asked me to lie on my front. Before I could protest, she jumped onto my back and started walking up and down, making bones creak I did not even know I owned. For a brief moment, I genuinely thought this might be how it all ended.
And yet, the next morning, I woke up a new man. I could feel nothing: no aches, no stiffness, just pure, glorious relief. I am not sure I have ever felt that good again. The pain, it turns out, was absolutely worth it.
Just do me a favour and do not mention the crying‑like‑a‑baby bit to anyone. That can stay between us.
The Flavours and Energy of the Muslim Quarter
Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter offers a very different, but equally memorable, side to the city. This warren of narrow streets has been shaped by centuries of Silk Road traders from Central Asia, whose descendants still live and worship here.
Wandering around, you are surrounded by the sight of historic mosques, the smell of incredible street food and the buzz of daily life. Sizzling charcoal‑grilled lamb skewers, hand‑pulled noodles and sweet walnut cakes were particular favourites of mine, and each one made me want to come back for “just one more taste”.
It is the sort of place where you can happily lose a few hours simply strolling, snacking and people‑watching.
Xi’an After Dark
After dark, Xi’an is simply stunning. The historic Bell and Drum Towers glow in shades of gold, becoming the backdrop for a city that comes alive at night. Street performers, food stalls and musicians fill the squares and pavements.
I loved just walking around, ducking into side streets lit with neon signs and red lanterns, listening to laughter and chatter as everyone made the most of the evening. The city has a real sense of celebration once the sun goes down.
Farewell, For Now
I could easily have stayed longer exploring Xi’an and its many wonders, but two nights were all I had before the trek continued towards Tibet and Everest. Even so, Xi’an left a huge impression on me.
If you are planning a trip to China, I would absolutely recommend making room for Xi’an in your itinerary. Ancient walls, legendary warriors, unforgettable food and the odd “character‑building” massage: it is a city that truly has it all.
