Hanoi: Where the Adventure Begins

My journey started in Hanoi, a city that hits all the senses at once: the buzz of scooters, the smell of sizzling street food, the jumble of shopfronts and balconies in the Old Quarter.

• Train Street: One of my first stops was the famous Train Street, where a full-size train squeezes past cafés and makeshift terraces with just inches to spare. Sitting with a coffee, watching locals calmly pull in their chairs as the train thundered by, felt like the perfect “I am really here” moment.
• Foodie tour: I then joined a foodie tour that took me down tiny alleyways and into family-run eateries I would never have found alone. Bowls of steaming pho, crispy banh mi, fresh herbs and dipping sauces: Hanoi’s food scene is incredible, and having a local guide explain each dish really brought it to life.
• Old Quarter: I loved wandering the Old Quarter, where every street seems to specialise in something different: shoes, lanterns, hardware, toys. It is chaotic and charming all at once, and a brilliant place to settle into the Vietnamese rhythm.

Pu Luong: Rice Terraces & Quiet Trails

Leaving the bustle of Hanoi behind, I travelled to Pu Luong, a region of emerald rice terraces, stilt houses and slow countryside life.

Here I:

• Woke up to views of green rice fields layered like steps up the hillsides.
• Took a trek through the terraces and small villages, greeting farmers on their way to the fields and listening to nothing but birds, water wheels and the rustle of bamboo.
• Enjoyed evenings that were wonderfully quiet, with cooler air and starry skies: a complete contrast to the cities.

Pu Luong was a peaceful pause in the middle of the journey and a reminder of how diverse Vietnam is once you step away from the main hubs.

Halong Bay: Sleeping on the Water

From the rice fields, I continued to Halong Bay, one of Vietnam’s icons. Spending a night on a traditional-style boat here was a real highlight.

• Cruising between limestone karsts that rise straight from the water felt almost otherworldly.
• There was time for gentle kayaking, a visit to a cave and just sitting on deck watching the changing light on the cliffs.
• At night, the bay grew quiet, the water flattened to glass and the stars came out above the silhouettes of the islands.

Waking up surrounded by those towering rocks, with the boat gently rocking and mist hanging low over the water, was an unforgettable experience.

Hoi An: Lanterns, Tailors & Mangroves

Next, I flew to Danang and transferred to Hoi An, which quickly became one of my favourite stops.

Hoi An is:

• Beautiful and atmospheric, especially at night when thousands of lanterns light up the streets and river.
• Known for its tailor shops, and it really is a dream if you love the idea of having clothes made to measure. The hardest part is choosing your fabrics.
• Full of little cafés, riverfront restaurants and old yellow buildings with wooden shutters and bougainvillea.

One of the most memorable activities here was kayaking around the mangroves near Hoi An. Paddling quietly through a maze of waterways, with birds calling overhead and the sun filtering through the trees, felt like discovering a more hidden side of the area.

Ho Chi Minh City: Neon Lights & Deep History

From central Vietnam I flew south to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), and it almost felt like arriving in a completely different country.

• The city is very modern, full of glass towers, rooftop bars and neon lights. At night it glows in colour and feels incredibly energetic.
• I explored on foot and by bike, taking in markets, wide boulevards and more contemporary neighbourhoods.

Two experiences here were especially powerful:

1.     Cycling to the Cu Chi Tunnels:
We cycled out to the Cu Chi area, then explored parts of the tunnel network used during the war. The ingenuity and hardship behind these tunnels is astonishing, and being able to see and (if you wish) briefly go inside some of them adds a very human perspective to what you might have only read in books.

2.     War Remnants Museum:
Visiting the War Remnants Museum was deeply moving. The exhibits are very honest and can be emotional, but they are important for understanding more of Vietnam’s recent history. It is not a light visit, but I am glad I went.

Siem Reap: Gateway to Angkor & Flavours of Cambodia

From Ho Chi Minh City I travelled to Siem Reap, my introduction to Cambodia, and it immediately charmed me.

• Siem Reap is a beautiful small city, with a relaxed feel, tree-lined streets, cafés and a riverfront that is lovely in the evening.
• It makes the perfect base for exploring the temples of Angkor.

Angkor Wat at Sunrise

One of the most magical moments of the whole trip was watching sunrise at Angkor Wat:

• Arriving in the dark with just torches and the murmurs of other visitors felt almost mystical.
• As the sky slowly shifted from deep blue to pink and gold, the towers of Angkor Wat emerged as a silhouette, then gradually revealed their detail.
• Seeing such an iconic place wake up with the day is something I will never forget.

Markets & Cooking School

Back in Siem Reap I spent time at the local food market, buying fresh ingredients with a guide who explained what everything was and how it is used in Cambodian cooking.

From there we went to a cooking school on the outskirts of the city, where we turned our market haul into lunch. Learning how to prepare local dishes, then sitting down to eat what we had created, was a fantastic way to connect with the culture.

Cardamom Tented Camp: Jungle, Silence & Starry Skies

After Siem Reap came something very different: time in an eco lodge at Cardamom Tented Camp.

It was:

• Tranquil and immersive, set deep in nature where the loudest sounds were birds and insects.
• A place that focuses on conservation and low-impact stays, which made it feel particularly special.

While there I:

• Joined a night safari, listening for the sounds of the jungle and spotting wildlife under the stars.
• Went on a trek through the jungle, learning about the plants and the efforts to protect the forest.
• Enjoyed more kayaking, this time on calm, remote waterways that felt a world away from cities and crowds.

It was the kind of place where you naturally slow down, breathe more deeply and remember how restorative nature can be.

Koh Rong: Cambodian Island Paradise

To finish the trip, I headed to Koh Rong, a true paradise island off the coast of Cambodia.

Here, the days quickly fell into a very easy pattern:

• Waking up to white sand and clear turquoise water just steps away.
• Swimming, snorkelling and lazing under palm trees.
• Watching sunsets that turned the sky soft pink and orange, then lingering over dinner with the sound of waves in the background.

After the intensity of the cities and the richness of the cultural sights, Koh Rong was the perfect place to exhale and simply enjoy island time.