As the Dreamliner touched down at Santiago Airport, the sense of anticipation grew.  Ahead lay almost three weeks in Chile, exploring south to north and various points in between.

First stop is Santiago itself, with an obligatory city tour to get the immediate feel of the old and the new, taking in the modern energy and enjoying the great food along with views of the Andes rising behind the city.  By contrast, a couple of hours away in Valparaiso, the pace is slower with time to enjoy its colourful hills, faded buildings, markets, street art and Pacific views – not forgetting its street elevators and funiculars.

After a 4-hour flight due south, the small airport at Puerto Natales awaits along with the Patagonian wind - and a change of temperature.  On the drive to Hotel Lago Grey, nothing prepares you for the scenic wonder that greets you after a short while, with the snow-capped Paine Massif appearing at almost every turn, to be admired from multiple viewpoints along the way.  The hotel lies on the shores of Lago Grey, with the Grey Glacier and the South Patagonia Icefield visible from the hotel’s viewing platform.  The Paine Massif itself is literally just the other side of the lake.  Comfortable rooms await along with delicious food and wine – all inclusive.  But that’s just the start.  The next morning and over the coming days, there are a variety of guided hikes to relish (with varying degrees of difficulty) along with a catamaran cruise on the lake to get you almost within touching distance of the Grey Glacier - but wrap up, as it’s cold!  

Torres del Paine is unbelievably beautiful, and one could soak up its remoteness and tranquillity for eons, but soon it’s time to move on to the Chilean Lake District and Puerto Varas on the shores of the vast Llanquihue Lake.   If you’re lucky, your hotel will face the lake and from your room you will see the Osorno volcano in the distance.  A drive to the ski resort on its slopes provides breathtaking views over the landscape below as well as letting you see the volcano up close – even more so if you take the chairlift further up.  Nearby are the magnificent Petrohué Falls, a must-see just to appreciate the power of mother nature in their waters, with delightful walks close by enabling you to appreciate the native flora and fauna.  From Puerto Varas there’s also the opportunity to visit Chiloé Island and see the unique colony of Magellanic and Humboldt penguins that live on the small islands just a short boat ride from the shore.

No trip to Chile would be complete without visiting the Atacama.  But Chile is long, and it’s a lengthy journey from Puerto Varas, even by plane.  Thankfully, Latam (Chile’s national airline), offers regular flights all over the country including to and from the airport at Calama, which is within easy reach of San Pedro de Atacama, the main centre for exploring the area.   San Pedro is all single storey buildings and earth-covered, narrow streets but all of this adds to its charm.  This is the place from which to explore the Moon Valley with its lunar-like landscape and to enjoy a sunset from a nearby viewpoint; an early start (5 a.m.) beckons the next day (if you’re lucky, your hotel will include an early continental-style buffer breakfast from 4 a.m. otherwise a packed breakfast) as you head to the high-altitude lagoons. The deep blue of the lagoons such as Miscanti and Miñiques at 4,100+ metres complements the blue sky and puffy white clouds amidst the clear fresh air.  Chaxa Lagoon is a must, a central hub from which to watch flamingos against a salt-crusted backdrop with the Andes beyond.  Another day, head off early (again!) to the spectacular El Tatio geysers 4,320 metres above sea level. It is the third-largest geyser field in the world and the largest in the Southern Hemisphere.  Returning to San Pedro, enjoy a meal in one of the many small, local restaurants dotted around town.

Copper might well be Chile’s main export, but we all know it for its wines so what better way to conclude a trip here than by relaxing for two or three nights at a vineyard such as the fabulous Matetic Vineyard in the Rosario Valley, savouring the delicious food and wine whilst taking the opportunity to have a swim or sunbathe before boarding the flight back home from Santiago, a mere hour or so away.

We had an amazing trip

Richard and Gill 

If Chile is on your wish list please get in touch and let's start planning your Chilean Adventure! 

Call me for a chat on 01582 809640 or email  me  -  nicola.benson@mytc.com