WHY SVALBARD AND WHY QUARK’S OCEAN EXPLORER?

Svalbard was an easy choice. I wanted polar bears, walrus, whales, Arctic fox and birdlife, but I did not want a conventional cruise where you mostly watch from a distance. I was looking for something more immersive, where getting off the ship often is central to the experience. Quark’s Ocean Explorer ticked all the boxes. With only around 130 passengers, it is a genuine small expedition ship, designed for efficient zodiac operations so guests can get out exploring quickly.  That translates into more time ashore or on the water, fewer queues and a far more personal feel.  I wanted strong expedition credentials with a high level of comfort, and Ocean Explorer delivered exactly that.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: LONGYEARBYEN AND LIFE ONBOARD

Landing in Longyearbyen (via charter from Helsinki) felt like stepping into another realm: sharp Arctic light, glacier-carved mountains and a sense that civilisation simply tapers off. Embarkation was straightforward and soon I was on deck, surrounded by this wild landscape with Ocean Explorer as our cosy, capable base. The ship struck a lovely balance with a small ship atmosphere where you quickly recognise fellow guests and crew. Fabulous food that felt closer to fine dining than “expedition basics” with a comfortable lounge for briefings, lectures and sharing sightings.  Surprising luxuries for such a remote voyage included an infinity pool, a sauna and two jacuzzis on deck. Sitting in warm water, watching Arctic scenery glide past, felt delightfully surreal.

THE EXPEDITION RHYTHM: ZODIACS, TUNDRA AND MIDNIGHT SUN

Expedition cruising is all about flexibility. There is a plan, but ice and weather shape the day and the Captain and Expedition Leader adjust constantly to maximise opportunities. We usually enjoyed at least two zodiac landings or cruises per day and on one memorable day we managed three. This is where the ship’s small size really makes a difference: everyone can disembark quickly, so you spend more time out in nature. The Expedition Team was superb. They made us feel safe from the very first zodiac briefing and gave clear, engaging daily briefings so we knew what to expect. They shared their knowledge so generously that by the end I felt genuinely educated about Arctic wildlife, geology, climate and history.

July brought some wonderful surprises. I was expecting constant cold, yet on some tundra walks we were in shorts under the midnight sun. There is something magical about strolling across Arctic tundra with the sun circling overhead, knowing it will not set.

WILDLIFE: A TRUE “SAFARI ON ICE”

I travelled to Svalbard for wildlife and it exceeded every expectation. During the voyage we saw no fewer than 12 polar bears, each encounter different and unforgettable.  Other stand-out wildlife moments included a pod of around 80 beluga whales, pale shapes surfacing in unison and round 60 walrus hauled out on a beach, enormous and oddly charming. There were various minke whale and multiple seal sightings that highlighted how rich these waters are and even an Arctic fox with 3 legs trotting lightly across the tundra. Glaciers and ice framed many of these encounters. We saw ice calving in action, hearing the crack and roar as blocks of ice crashed into the sea. Getting close by zodiac and kayak, feeling the cold radiate off sapphire-blue ice, was unforgettable.

INTO THE POLAR PACK ICE: BEYOND 80 DEGREES NORTH

The single most powerful moment for me was our approach to the polar pack ice, almost at 82 degrees north.  At first we felt the gentle tap of pancake ice against the hull, then gradually we sliced deeper into thicker ice until the sea around us became a mosaic of white tiles. It felt like sailing to the edge of the map. Then came the encounter that will stay with me forever: a polar bear feasting on a whale carcass amongst the pack ice. We observed at a respectful  distance for over 2 hours, fully within AECO regulations, yet close enough to appreciate the raw reality of Arctic life. It was powerful, unscripted and deeply moving.

AN UNEXPECTED FASCINATION: ARCTIC BIRDLIFE

One lovely surprise was how much I fell in love with the birdlife. I did not arrive as a birder, but I left with a genuine fascination for Arctic species.  A particular highlight was Alkefjellet, where the cliffs were alive with thousands of birds. The sheer sound and motion, with birds wheeling and diving against dramatic rock faces, was mesmerising and added another dimension to the voyage.

FINAL THOUGHTS AND HOW I CAN HELP

Svalbard felt like a genuine safari on ice: close-up wildlife, immense scenery and a constant awareness that you are a guest in a fragile, powerful environment. Quark’s Ocean Explorer, with its small ship feel, superb food, excellent Expedition Team and indulgent touches like the infinity pool and jacuzzis, made this remote world accessible without losing any of its magic.  I left the Arctic with a new perspective on our planet, a camera full of extraordinary moments and a real desire to help others experience something similar. If you feel drawn to wild places, incredible wildlife and meaningful, once-in-a-lifetime journeys, an expedition cruise to Svalbard might be exactly what you are looking for.

If you would like to talk about planning your own Arctic “safari on ice” or want advice on the right itinerary, season or cabin type for you, contact me and I will be delighted to share my first-hand experience and help you start planning.

And do check out my "Arctic Diaries" on my Instagram account @the.best.journey.yet