Peru: From Lima’s Coast To The Clouds Of Machu Picchu

Buenos días from Lima, Peru. This trip has been a really special milestone for me: my first time in South America and a brand new continent.

After an overnight journey and a very early start, I arrived in Lima, full of that unique buzz you only get in a completely new destination. For my first two nights I was based in Miraflores, one of Lima’s most popular and characterful neighbourhoods, staying in a super cute, traditional‑style hotel tucked right into the heart of the district. Think warm hospitality, local touches and a real sense of place from the moment you walk through the door.

Miraflores itself felt like the perfect introduction to Lima: busy streets, ocean views, leafy parks and a mix of cafés, bars and restaurants just calling out to be explored. Even in those first sleepy hours after landing, putting my feet on the ground here made everything feel very real. These first two nights were my chance to settle in, adjust and soak up the city before joining my Intrepid Travel host and the rest of the group for the main adventure.

My first full morning in Lima started in the loveliest way: with a long, lazy breakfast in our hotel’s impossibly cute little café‑restaurant. It felt more like a neighbourhood brunch spot than a hotel dining room, with lots of natural light, cosy corners and the gentle hum of morning chatter.

I went veggie that morning and it was such a good call: plates full of fresh, colourful fruit, huge grilled courgettes that were simple but delicious, and fluffy scrambled eggs. It was exactly what I needed after a travel day.

I also tried coca leaf tea for the first time, a traditional herbal tea here that is believed to help with altitude sickness. It felt warming and comforting, and very much part of easing into Peruvian life, especially knowing I would soon be heading high into the Andes.

Fuelled by fresh food and curiosity, it was time to really get out and explore. Let’s go, Lima: day one had begun.

My first day was very much a pottering day before I met up with the rest of the group and the “official” tour started. With no fixed schedule and plenty of time, we headed out into Miraflores to see what we could find.

We wandered through a string of parks, each one a little slice of calm amid the city, and followed the paths towards the dramatic Pacific coastline. Even on a hazy morning there is something special about standing on the cliffs, looking out over the ocean, watching surfers catching waves far below.

From there we dipped into busy streets and colourful shops, the kind where you can lose an hour just browsing. Bright textiles, handicrafts and souveniers spill out onto pavements, and the colours and patterns feel so distinctly Peruvian.

Of course, it would not be a first day in Lima without a visit to Huaca Pucllana. This 2,000‑year‑old archaeological site sits right in the middle of modern Miraflores and offers a fascinating window into the ancient Lima culture that settled here long before the Incas. Our guide was very clear that it is not an Inca site, and gently corrected anyone who tried to label it as such!

As we climbed through the adobe pyramids and terraces, the clouds and morning fog that had been hanging over the city suddenly started to clear. By the time we reached the top, patches of blue sky had appeared and the sun came out in full force. I now have a slightly stinging pink neck as proof of just how quickly the weather can change. It was the perfect gentle start to the trip: coastal views, everyday local life and a taste of Peru’s deep history, all within walking distance.

Lima Hotel No. 2 & The Start Of Our Intrepid Adventure

The next day  it was time to say goodbye to my cosy little base and hello to Lima hotel number two. A short journey across the city and I checked into the property that would be our meeting point and home as the group adventure began.

There is always a little flutter of excitement when you arrive at a new hotel mid‑trip: a fresh lobby, a different neighbourhood, and that feeling of a new chapter starting. This one had a real “launch pad” energy, full of people either about to set off on an adventure or just returning with stories to tell.

Today marked the official start of my Intrepid trip, and with it a shift in tempo. Over the next days I would be travelling with my Intrepid host and a small group of fellow TCs, exploring more of Peru together. Bags dropped, welcome meeting done, introductions made; now it really felt like the fun was beginning.

Dinner With A View: La Huaca Pucllana By Night

Our first night together as a group set the tone for something very special. Intrepid chose an outstanding setting for our welcome dinner: Restaurant La Huaca Pucllana, overlooking the 2,000‑year‑old ceremonial site.

By day, Huaca Pucllana is fascinating; by night, it is magical. The adobe pyramids and terraces are beautifully lit, emerging from the darkness and surrounded by the glow of the city. Sitting on the restaurant terrace, with this view spread out before us, felt surreal: contemporary Lima life, world‑class dining and deep history all in one frame.

The food lived up to the setting. We sampled a range of local Peruvian dishes, beautifully presented and full of flavour. It was a perfect introduction to Lima’s culinary scene and a lovely way for the group to start getting to know one another over shared plates and that first “we’re really here” moment.

Lima quickly proved itself to be a true foodie paradise, with some of the world’s top restaurants and a real pride in its gastronomy, from fine dining to tiny local spots. You genuinely get the sense that eating well is part of the culture here, not just an extra for visitors.

Falling For Barranco: Lima’s Bohemian Heart

If Miraflores was my gentle introduction to Lima, Barranco was the moment I truly fell in love with the city.

Barranco is Lima’s artisan, bohemian district and it is absolutely full of character. Colourful street art splashes across old walls, cobbled streets wind past quirky houses, and there is an easy, creative energy that makes you want to wander without a map.

Everywhere you turn there are independent coffee shops, small galleries, studios and creative spaces. Artists, authors and poets have long called this neighbourhood home, and you can feel that history in the atmosphere. It is the kind of place where you drift from café to gallery to viewpoint and somehow the whole day disappears.

Barranco also borders the Pacific, so between historic streets and artistic corners you are never far from dramatic ocean views. As the light changes, the district seems to shift personality, from soft and sleepy in the morning to lively and sociable in the evenings.

I was also struck by how many fabulous small hotels and stylish guesthouses are tucked away here, many in lovingly restored buildings that fit perfectly with Barranco’s creative feel. I loved it so much that I planned to stay here again after visiting Machu Picchu. It really is my kind of place.

Up To The Andes: First Impressions Of Cusco

From coastal Lima to the high Andes in just an hour and a half: we flew into Cusco, the gateway to Machu Picchu and the start of the more adventurous part of the journey.

We arrived after dark, so for now we only had a glimpse of our surroundings, but what I saw of the historic centre already felt utterly charming. The streets have a distinctly colonial Spanish feel, with pretty facades and old‑world architecture that makes you instantly want to see it all in daylight.

The change in altitude makes itself known very quickly. Even though we had been sensible and taken altitude sickness medication, we all felt slightly light‑headed, giddy and more than a bit giggly. There was a shared sense of “is it just me?” that soon turned into a lot of laughter.

Dinner that evening was as low‑key as it gets: a comforting hot chocolate and a slice of cake, which was about all any of us could manage in our floaty state. It felt exactly right: warm, sweet and simple.

What was impossible to miss was the drop in temperature. After Lima’s soft coastal climate, Cusco felt markedly colder now that we were so high above sea level. Shorts and t‑shirts were swapped for walking gear, layers and woolly hats. It was early to bed, plenty of water and a chance for our bodies to adjust before seeing Cusco properly in daylight.

Settling Into The Andes: Boutique Charm In Cusco

Cusco became our base for three nights, with an additional night in Aguas Caliente to bring us closer to Machu Picchu.

We stayed in a traditional little boutique hotel that could not have felt more Peruvian in style. Think bright textiles, carved wooden furniture, cosy courtyards and quirky details everywhere. It felt more like a welcoming home than a hotel, exactly what you want when you are this high up and slightly out of your comfort zone.

The staff were wonderfully friendly and seemed to instinctively understand how their altitude‑adjusting guests were feeling. One detail that really reassured us all: there were oxygen cylinders tucked behind reception, just in case anyone needed extra help acclimatising. At over 3,000 metres, it suddenly felt very important.

Between the crisp mountain air outside and the warm, characterful interiors inside, it was the perfect place to rest, hydrate and prepare for the days ahead.

First Steps On The Trails: Temples, Valleys & Pisco Sours

Our first full trekking day in the Andes felt like the moment the trip truly shifted from city exploring to mountain adventure.

We left Cusco at 9 am for a short drive, climbing to around 3,500 metres above sea level. Before we set off, everyone had their oxygen levels checked and filled out a health questionnaire about altitude symptoms. It was reassuringly thorough and, thankfully, we all passed.

The trail led us through beautiful valleys and wide plateaus, with views that seemed to stretch forever. In one direction we could see Cusco laid out below; in another, incredibly high peaks soared above us. It was one of those landscapes where you keep stopping just to try and take it all in.

Our first Inca‑era site on this part of the trip was the Temple de la Luna, a moon temple aligned with the full moon. It is a deeply spiritual place and we were encouraged to spend a few quiet moments there. We paused in silence, with only birdsong for company, and it felt genuinely magical.

From there we made our way back through small villages and rural communities, occasionally crossing parts of ancient Inca trails. Everyday life carried on around us: children playing, farmers working, people going about daily routines against a backdrop of mountains and terraced fields.

Back in Cusco’s historic centre, we were treated to a fabulous meal at Mama Seledonia, a local enterprise that Intrepid supports. It is run by Mama herself and her family, and her story is incredibly moving. She left home at seven and was forced to earn a living working as a cook in someone else’s house. Today, she uses those skills to give back, providing free meals once a month for people experiencing homelessness and for low‑income families. Eating there felt like so much more than just dinner; it was a chance to support something genuinely meaningful.

Later, we stumbled upon a local parade or carnival. Dancers in vibrant costumes filled the streets, acting out folklore and stories from earlier times, cheered on by their families. It was one of those spontaneous local moments that no itinerary can guarantee but that becomes a real highlight.

By this point we were exhausted and in need of a boost, so a cocktail‑making class was very welcome. Pisco sours all round, plenty of laughter and a very jolly group later, we somehow still managed to fit in another wonderful meal at a local farm‑to‑plate restaurant that pays a fair price for its ingredients. Fresh, honest food, closely connected to the land around us.

Then it was definitely time for bed. Tomorrow: the Sacred Valley.

AMA = Love: Women Of The Sacred Valley

In the Sacred Valley, one of the most moving parts of the journey was not a viewpoint or an ancient site, but a visit that had all of us reaching for tissues.

We visited AMA, a remarkable social enterprise that employs around 45 single indigenous women from the Sacred Valley and surrounding highlands. Together, they are supporting around 100 children. For many, AMA is not just a job; it is a lifeline, a community and a way to create a more secure future for their families.

The workspace is full of colour, yarns and handmade pieces, but what stands out most is the sense of care. There is even a play area on site, because sometimes the women have no choice but to bring their children to work. Rather than seeing that as a problem, AMA has created a safe space where the children can be close by, play and simply be children while their mothers work.

Through Intrepid’s support, AMA has also been able to provide breakfast for children who would otherwise go without. This year, their aim is to serve 2,000 free breakfasts. A simple idea with a huge impact.

Unsurprisingly, the gift shop did not know what had hit it. Our group enthusiastically did its bit, buying scarves, bags, chocolate, coffee beans, jewellery and more, all made by the women. It felt good to know that every purchase directly supports their work and their families.

As we left, we were wrapped in huge hugs and beaming smiles. It was humbling, inspiring and full of heart. AMA really does equal love.

Huilloc: Tradition, Textiles & Underground Lunches

On our way through the Sacred Valley towards Machu Picchu, we made a detour to another community supported by Intrepid, in a tiny village called Huilloc.

Huilloc is steeped in history and tradition. Here, the past is not something preserved behind glass; it is lived every day. Many villagers still wear traditional Peruvian clothing, and the children even go to school in their beautiful woven outfits. Seeing them walking along the lanes in bright hand‑loomed fabrics, with mountains all around, is like stepping into a living postcard.

We were welcomed at a community textile centre, where a group of women hosted us with huge smiles. They told us about their lives and demonstrated how they weave, cook, dance and pass their skills on to their children. There was real pride in both their heritage and their work.

Lunch was unforgettable. Our meal was cooked underground using hot coals buried in the earth, in a traditional style. Before uncovering the food, the ground was blessed and the mound decorated with a simple flower cross, to ensure no one stepped on it. It was a beautiful reminder of the deep respect the community has for the land and for the food it provides.

When the earth was opened, out came a delicious, rustic feast, infused with the smoky warmth of the coals. Sharing that meal in the middle of the Sacred Valley felt very special.

And then there was the little boy who completely stole my heart. If kidnapping were legal, I might have tried to pop him into my backpack. He was that adorable.

Machu Picchu: The Closest Place To Heaven

Machu Picchu is, without doubt, the most magical place I have ever been.

After an overnight stay in Aguas Caliente, we took the shuttle bus that winds its way up the mountain to the entrance of the site. Once you disembark, your passport is checked carefully against your permit, and then suddenly you are in. The path begins to climb, step after step, towards the ruins.

Almost immediately the views begin to open up. You look out over a deep green valley framed by dramatic Andean peaks, and it quite literally takes your breath away. It felt like the closest place to heaven I have ever seen; the clouds hang low and soft, and there are moments when it seems as though you could reach out and touch them.

I am not going to lie, I found it incredibly emotional. The combination of altitude, anticipation, beauty and history caught me off guard. I let the tears come and I am very glad I did. It felt like a quiet thank you for being able to stand in such a remarkable place.

We were guided by the lovely Carmen from Intrepid, who struck the perfect balance between giving us time for photos and sharing the stories that bring Machu Picchu to life. She explained how the village was eventually abandoned after a period of severe drought, when the local Inca population had no choice but to leave because they could no longer grow food. Over time, nature reclaimed the site and it became completely overgrown.

In 1911, Hiram Bingham, led by local people, brought Machu Picchu to wider international attention. Today it is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and standing there you absolutely understand why.

Walking through its terraces, temples and stone houses, surrounded by mountains and sky, feels like stepping into another world. It is peaceful yet powerful, rugged yet incredibly refined. For me, it is an experience that goes far beyond any photograph. Machu Picchu deserves its place on every travel wish list.

Lima’s Historic Centre: City Of Balconies

Our last day on tour brought us back to Lima, this time focusing on the historic centre rather than Miraflores or Barranco.

The old town is often called the “city of the balconies”, and once you start looking up it is easy to see why. Elegant wooden and wrought‑iron balconies line the streets, attached to grand colonial buildings in pastel shades. Some are beautifully restored, others gently weathered, but together they give the centre a unique character and a real sense of history.

It could not feel more different from the other neighbourhoods we had stayed in. Miraflores has a polished, coastal, almost resort‑like feel, while Barranco is all creativity and bohemian charm. The historic centre, by contrast, is a haven for history lovers and architecture fans, with plazas, churches and ornate facades that tell the story of Lima’s colonial past.

At the same time, it is a very alive part of the city: busy cafés, street vendors, locals on their daily routines and visitors craning their necks to take everything in. For foodies there are plenty of places to try traditional dishes; for adventurers it is a fascinating place to start or end a wider Peru itinerary.

As a finale to our time as a group, a walking tour here felt like the perfect way to round things off.

A Lima Sunset Farewell & Reflections On Peru

For our final night in Peru, Lima treated us to a stunning sunset. Standing on the coast, watching the sky melt from gold to pink over the Pacific, felt like the perfect closing scene to an unforgettable adventure.

It was one of those sunsets that makes you replay everything in your mind: the street art of Barranco, the cobbled lanes of Cusco, the warmth of the women at AMA and Huilloc, the first glimpse of Machu Picchu through the clouds. My first time in South America, and most definitely not my last.

I am incredibly grateful to Intrepid for hosting such a brilliantly planned trip and for giving us the chance to experience their full range of hotel styles first hand, from comfort to premium. It has also been powerful to see how working closely with local communities can have such a positive impact on so many lives.

I am equally thankful to Travel Counsellors for offering opportunities like this. There is nothing better, as a Travel Counsellor, than being able to personally recommend a small group tour, a great restaurant or a little hint or tip that can improve someone’s holiday, all based on your own experience.

Now it is time for the long journey home. I cannot wait to see my family, cuddle the dog and sleep in my own bed. But I am returning with a heart full of Peru: its colours, kindness, food, mountains and magic.

If my journey has sparked your curiosity about Peru or small group adventures in South America, I would love to help you plan your own trip and share everything I have learned along the way.