Falling in Love with Split, Hvar and the Dalmatian Coast

Split: Romans, Fortresses and Endless Charm
My introduction to Croatia began in Split, and it certainly did not disappoint. The city is beautiful, extremely clean and full of life, with history layered around every corner.

Stepping Through Centuries in Split
We started with a historical walking tour of the city, and it felt like time travel. Within minutes we had “met” Romans and a Sphinx, moving seamlessly from one century to another as we wandered through Split’s old streets and squares.  The standout, of course, is the UNESCO-protected Diocletian’s Palace: a remarkably preserved Roman palace that now forms the heart of the old town. Cafés, shops, homes and tiny courtyards are tucked into ancient stone walls: it feels like walking through a living museum.

Trogir and Klis Fortress: UNESCO & Game of Thrones

Later that day, we headed to the harbour town of Trogir, another UNESCO World Heritage site. This small, historic island town is all narrow lanes, pretty squares and waterfront views, and has a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.  We ended the day at the medieval Klis Fortress, perched high above Split. As the sun set, the views were spectacular: mountains behind, sea and islands in front. Game of Thrones fans will recognise Klis as one of the show’s filming locations, so it is a must for anyone wanting to blend TV nostalgia with real history.

Staying in the Heart of Split: Cornaro Hotel
During our time in Split we stayed at the five star Cornaro Hotel, right in the city centre. The location could not be better: just a two minute walk from Diocletian’s Palace and an easy stroll to countless restaurants, bars and shops.  The hotel itself feels stylish and welcoming, with:

• A fabulous rooftop bar, pool and hot tub: perfect for a sundowner over the city rooftops.
• Warm, friendly staff and management, who genuinely seemed pleased to share their city.
• It made an ideal base for exploring Split on foot, yet still felt like a calm, comfortable retreat at the end of a busy day.

Inland Dalmatia: Sinj, Lakes, Vineyards and OPG Hospitality
On day two we left the coast behind and drove just over half an hour inland to Sinj, a small town with a very big tradition.

Sinj and the Knights’ Tournament
Sinj is famous for its annual knight’s tournament, Sinjska alka, which celebrates victory over the Ottoman Empire. The event is steeped in ritual and history, and has a similar feel to jousting.  The Alka of Sinj Museum brings the whole story to life: costumes, weapons, stories of the knights and the significance of the tournament to local identity. Even if you do not visit during the event itself, the museum is well worth including in your itinerary.

Red and Blue Lakes, Vrgorac and Dalmatian Delicacies
The afternoon took us through some truly beautiful countryside, with a visit to the red and blue lakes and onwards to Vrgorac, a town at the foot of Mount Matokit.  This region is a foodie’s dream, it's surrounded by extensive vineyards, it produces over half of Croatia’s prosciutto AND strawberries.  Naturally, we had to stay for food and we were treated to a late lunch at an OPG: a family-run agricultural holding producing and selling goods grown on their own land. The homemade food, wine and liqueurs were outstanding. There is something very special about sitting at a family table, eating what they have grown and produced themselves: it feels authentic, generous and incredibly flavoursome.

After our visit to Vrgorac, the day took an unexpected but very welcome turn with an evening of gin tasting at Poetica Distillery. Tucked away in the countryside, Poetica uses local juniper berries to craft exceptional gins and other liqueurs, each with a real sense of place in every sip.  It is not just about the drinks either: there is a swimming pool on the terrace and you can dine there too, which makes it feel more like a relaxed, elegant hideaway than a traditional distillery. They have only just started opening their doors to the public for tours, so we felt very lucky to be among the first guests. Plans are also underway for a speakeasy on site, which I can already imagine being a seriously fun and atmospheric spot for an evening drink.

Island Escape: Hvar’s Chic Hotels and Crystal-Clear Sea
No Dalmatian journey would be complete without time on the islands, so next we caught the ferry from Split to Hvar. This instantly felt like a change of pace: harbourfront cafés, bobbing boats, pretty stone buildings and that glorious blue sea.  We visited several hotels on Hvar, each with its own character and style, all befitting such a beautiful location.

Palace Elisabeth Hvar Heritage Hotel - Opposite the harbour, the Palace Elisabeth Hvar Heritage Hotel blends old world elegance with contemporary luxury. With only 45 rooms and suites, it has a lovely intimate atmosphere, ideal for couples or anyone who prefers a more boutique, characterful stay. Think high ceilings, refined décor and views that make you linger over breakfast just a little longer.

Sirena Resort Hvar - The new Sirena Resort Hvar, tucked into a secluded cove just outside the town centre, felt like a little slice of paradise. The views out to sea are breathtaking, and the setting has a real hideaway feel while still being within easy reach of Hvar Town. It is exactly the sort of place where you could happily spend days moving between the sea, a sun lounger and a long leisurely lunch.

Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort - We stayed slightly closer to the town centre at Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort. It has a wonderful pool area and great beach access, which makes it perfect for those who love to be by the water. And you really do have to swim in the sea in Hvar: the water is so clear and inviting that it is impossible to resist.

Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel - Back in town, the Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel is a delightful boutique option right on the waterfront. One of the highlights is dining while overlooking the harbour: boats coming and going, lights reflecting on the water and yet another excellent meal. Food was a recurring high point throughout this trip, and Hvar certainly continued that theme.

The Paklinski Islands: Boat Days and Secret Coves
A visit to Hvar is not complete without exploring the nearby Paklinski islands, and this was one of my favourite experiences.  The Paklinski archipelago consists of 16 pine-covered, car free islets scattered just off Hvar. They offer secluded coves, rocky inlets, quiet beaches and that wonderful feeling of being away from it all, yet still just a short boat ride from Hvar Town.  We spent the day hopping between them, swimming in the most incredible turquoise sea. I was told one of the islets even has resident peacocks. In September, according to our boat captain, the islands are particularly special: still warm and sunny, but much less busy than the main summer months.  The largest island in Palmizana Bay is home to Ristorante Palmizana Meneghello, a restaurant and art gallery set amid lush gardens. It is absolutely worth a stop, both for the atmosphere and, of course, for yet more delicious food. Croatia really excels when it comes to fresh, flavourful, locally sourced dishes.

Final Thoughts: Why Dalmatia Stole My Heart
In just five nights, Croatia captured my heart. Split and Hvar, in particular, struck a beautiful balance of history, culture, food, wine, scenery and sea.  Dalmatia is perfect if you:

• Love history and want to walk in the footsteps of Romans, knights and medieval rulers.
• Enjoy incredible food and wine, with a real emphasis on local, seasonal produce.
• Crave stunning scenery, from mountain-backed towns and lakes to sun-drenched islands.
• Appreciate time on the water, whether it is a gentle ferry ride, a private boat day or simply swimming in crystal clear bays.

Everywhere I went, I experienced outstanding hospitality and genuine friendliness. And I already have the perfect excuse to return: I did not even make it to Brac Island this time.

Pebbly Beaches and Perfect Water: What to Expect
One of the questions I am most often asked about Croatia is: “Are all the beaches pebbly, are there no sandy ones?”  On this trip, every beach I visited was pebbly, so my honest advice is to pack a pair of water shoes to make getting in and out of the sea more comfortable and very importantly - Do not let the pebbles put you off!  The payoff is more than worth it: the water is a stunning turquoise, incredibly clear and perfect for swimming. Sun loungers are comfortable, the views are spectacular and the whole experience feels wonderfully Mediterranean.

If you are tempted by Split, Hvar or the wider Dalmatian coast, I would be delighted to help design a trip that captures the very best of this region, tailored to your own pace and passions.