Discovering Tavira: Sunshine, Natas & the Slower Side of the Algarve

At the end of July, we headed to Portugal with friends for ten nights in Tavira, a lovely town in the eastern Algarve that I'd been looking forward to experiencing for myself.And this holiday was exactly what we needed.There was no packed itinerary and no pressure to be somewhere different every day. Instead, we found a really lovely balance of exploring, eating, drinking, laughing and occasionally doing absolutely nothing at all.

Our Base in Tavira

We stayed at the AP Maria Nova Lounge Hotel on a bed and breakfast basis, which worked brilliantly for us. The breakfasts were fabulous, the staff were excellent and the hotel gave us the freedom to head out and enjoy Tavira's restaurants in the evenings rather than being tied to dining at the hotel. We certainly made good use of the hotel though! There were lazy days around the pool, lunches and snacks from the pool bar and early evening or late-night cocktails at the rooftop bar. Sitting up there in the warm Algarve evening with friends and a cocktail in hand was a particularly nice way to start or finish the day. And when we fancied something lighter for lunch, we discovered a fabulous little local bakery just down the hill from the hotel. Which brings me to the  pastéis de nata. I may have eaten one or two.

Or perhaps slightly more than one or two.

Research, obviously.

Wandering Around Tavira

Tavira itself was one of the reasons the holiday worked so well. There's enough going on to keep you interested without ever feeling hectic. We spent hours simply wandering around the cobbled streets, browsing the little shops, crossing the river, exploring around the castle and stopping whenever somewhere looked inviting. The town sits on the  Gilão River  and has a fascinating history, with Roman and Moorish influences and the remains of its old walls and castle still forming part of Tavira today. There was also a music festival taking place while we were there, which added to the atmosphere in the evenings. Tavira is somewhere that encourages you to slow down. You don't necessarily need a list of things to see. Sometimes an afternoon walk followed by a cold drink beside the river is quite enough.

A Day on Ilha de Tavira

 Earlier in the holiday, we took the ferry across to  Ilha de Tavira , one of the beautiful barrier islands of the Ria Formosa Natural Park.  And what a beach.    A huge stretch of white sand and crashing waves gave us a brilliant day by the sea. One small piece of personal advice? Don't wear your sunglasses into those waves unless you're quite happy to donate them permanently to the Atlantic.

Lesson learned!

 Thankfully the rest of the day was considerably less dramatic, including a lovely lunch at  Xiri Beach Club

Eating Our Way Around Tavira

 Food became quite a feature of this holiday. Funny how that happens. We had a fabulous meal at  Terraze , in a lovely setting beside the River Gilão in Tavira's historic centre. Then there was  Franganário , a wonderfully relaxed, family-run restaurant serving traditional Portuguese and Algarve food. We loved it so much we went back twice. I always think that's one of the best recommendations you can give a restaurant. With ten nights and dozens of places to choose from, we voluntarily surrendered another evening to it!

An Easy Day Trip to Olhão

 One day we jumped in a taxi and headed along the coast to  Olhão . The taxi was inexpensive and it made for a really easy change of scenery.   One of the highlights was wandering around the famous  Olhão markets by the waterfront . The fish market was packed with incredibly fresh seafood, while the fruit and vegetable market was bursting with colour, with local traders selling everything from fresh produce to regional specialities. It was vibrant, busy and wonderfully local, and gave us a lovely glimpse of everyday Algarve life. From there, we enjoyed refreshments by the harbour before walking along towards the newer part of Olhão, where we found a very trendy restaurant for lunch. Fish tacos, nachos and cold drinks in the sunshine went down rather well. The desserts looked spectacular too, although even we had to admit defeat after lunch! 

Faro by Train

Another day we took the train to  Faro , which was incredibly straightforward and inexpensive from Tavira. And Faro deserves more than simply being thought of as the place where the airport is. We walked for miles through the old and new parts of the city, stopping for drinks beside the beautiful marina before exploring the cobbled streets and some of its history. One of the more unusual stops was  Igreja do Carmo and its Capela dos Ossos, or Chapel of Bones . The striking Carmo Church dates mainly from the 18th century, while the tiny chapel behind it is decorated with the bones and skulls of Carmelite monks. It's fascinating, slightly eerie and certainly not something you forget in a hurry. We balanced all that culture very sensibly with lunch at a traditional Portuguese tavern near the church. There were flaming Portuguese sausages, charcuterie, cheese and, naturally, a few libations in the extremely hot sunshine. Culture can be thirsty work.

We also hopped aboard Faro's little tourist train, which turned out to be a great way to see more of the city, particularly when the temperature made another few miles on foot seem considerably less appealing.

Would I Recommend Tavira?

Absolutely, but I'd recommend it to the right person. Tavira isn't about huge resorts, wild nightlife or having an attraction planned for every hour of every day. Its charm is in the slower pace. It's morning coffee and a pastel de nata. Wandering cobbled streets without really knowing where you're going. Long lunches, independent restaurants, a ferry to the beach, a day trip by train and cocktails on a rooftop as the sun goes down. For us, ten nights gave us enough time to explore without ever feeling rushed and, most importantly, plenty of time simply to enjoy being on holiday with good friends. And sometimes, that's exactly the investment in yourself that you need.

Thinking About a Holiday to Tavira?

If you fancy discovering a quieter, more traditional side of the Algarve, Tavira is well worth considering  I can help with everything from a relaxed couples' escape or holiday with friends to a longer Algarve stay, including choosing the right hotel and helping you work out what you can easily explore while you're there. Having now stayed in Tavira myself, I can also give you the little bits you don't necessarily find in the brochure. Including where to find a good nata.

ISA | Investing in Self & Adventure