Snowy Adventures in Tromso

Day 1: Touching Down in Arctic Tromsø

Our adventure began at Heathrow, boarding our British Airways flight bound for Tromsø. To my relief, everything ran right on schedule, and before long we were in the air, leaving the bustle of London behind.

The three-hour journey passed in no time at all. As we flew north the views from the window just kept getting better: endless stretches of snow-dusted landscape, inky fjords cutting through the white, and soft pink light on the horizon. It was one of those flights where you do not want to close the blind or even open a book, because what is outside is simply breath-taking.

We touched down slightly ahead of schedule and were off the aircraft and out of the terminal surprisingly quickly. With our bus vouchers in hand, we headed straight for the Airport Express stop, expecting to catch the 13.05 departure into the city.

The Arctic, however, had other ideas. There was no sign of the 13.05 bus, and as the cold crept in, we found ourselves stamping our feet and tucking our chins deeper into our scarves. Instead of letting the delay dampen the mood, we struck up a conversation with a lovely lady from London who was also waiting. We swapped travel stories, compared notes on escaping the British winter, and laughed about the realities of visiting the far north. In a funny way, that unexpected pause became part of the magic of arrival: our first real taste of life in Tromsø, standing under a pale winter sky and watching our breath rise in the frosty air.

Eventually, the 13.45 Airport Express rolled up, and we climbed aboard, grateful for the warmth. The ride into Tromsø took around 20 minutes, gliding past snow-covered streets and glimpses of the harbour as the city revealed itself.

Our base for the next three nights, the Clarion Hotel, was conveniently right across the road from the bus stop.

Where We Stayed: Clarion Hotel Tromsø

We checked into a room on the 9th floor, and the first thing that grabbed us was the view. Floor‑to‑ceiling windows looked out over the harbour and across to the snow-covered mountain opposite: a real “wow” moment, especially as the Arctic light shifted through the afternoon.

The room itself was spacious yet very minimalistic: clean lines and everything you need without any fuss. It felt more like a practical, modern Scandinavian base than a cosy boutique hideaway, which actually suited Tromsø perfectly: somewhere comfortable to sleep, warm up and enjoy the views in between heading out for Northern Lights hunts and Arctic adventures.

Exploring Tromsø & Our First Aurora Cruise

After dropping our bags in the room, we headed straight back out to explore Tromsø. The first surprise was the size of the town: I had pictured a tiny Arctic outpost, but Tromsø felt much bigger and livelier than I expected, with shops, cafés and restaurants lining the streets and a lovely buzz, even in the cold.

It was well past lunchtime and we were both starving, so when we spotted a restaurant called Kaia on the harbourfront, it was an easy decision. We tucked into fish burgers that were exactly what we needed: hearty, fresh and absolutely delicious, with views of the harbour outside reminding us just how far north we had travelled.

Afterwards, we wandered back towards the hotel and stopped for a drink at a local bar just around the corner. It was the perfect little pause before the main event of the evening: our Aurora Dinner Cruise.

That night we boarded an electric catamaran for an evening on the water in search of the Northern Lights. The commentary on board was informative and relaxed, with a bit of humour woven in, which really helped set the tone. It took around 90 minutes to sail out to an area with the clearest skies. Sadly, Mother Nature was not quite on our side: we only saw a tiny patch of green in the sky and nothing like the dramatic displays you see in the photos. It was disappointing, of course, but that is the reality of the aurora.

What made the evening special regardless was the dinner. We were served an amazing three‑course meal on board, which felt like an experience in its own right. The first and second courses were beautifully prepared fish dishes (with a vegetarian option available), and the creamy panna cotta dessert was worth doing the trip for alone.

By the time we sailed back into Tromsø harbour it was around 10.30 pm. After a 5 am start that morning, we were absolutely shattered. Thankfully, the boat docked right outside our hotel, so it was just a few sleepy steps back inside before collapsing into bed, ready for the next day’s Arctic adventures.

Day 2: Plans Change, Bridges, Heights & 32,966 Steps

After our early breakfast, we wrapped up and headed over to the bus station for our 8.45 am pick-up for the husky safari. Or so we thought. When we arrived, we were told we did not need to be there until 11.45 am – the tour operator had put the wrong time on our voucher.

Once we got over the initial frustration, we decided to treat it as bonus exploring time. With a few unexpected hours to spare, we set off on foot across the iconic Tromsø Bridge towards Tromsdalen. In the dim January light it looked quite a distance, especially as Tromsø only gets a few hours of daylight at that time of year, but it actually did not take long at all. I was very aware of the clock though, making sure we would be back at the bus station for 11.45.

As we reached the far side of the bridge, the Arctic Cathedral came into view ahead of us. Its striking triangular shape stands out beautifully against the snow, and it is easy to see why it is such a draw for visitors. The appeal really lies in its remarkable modern design, peaceful atmosphere and that stunning glass mosaic that so many people come to see. Unfortunately for us, it was not open to tourists until 1.30 pm, so we could only admire it from the outside.

Not wanting to waste the morning, we carried on up the snowy streets towards the cable car station. Carl was keen to take the Fjellheisen cable car up Storsteinen mountain for those famous panoramic views. I was less enthusiastic: I hate heights and it looked very high and very steep! As it turned out, our nerves and excitement were short-lived, because when we reached the station there was a technical fault and the cable car was not operating.

So, back we went through the icy streets, lined with pretty wooden houses, and then back over the bridge into Tromsø, concentrating hard on staying upright in the slippery conditions. With about an hour to spare before our new husky pick-up time, we ducked into a café for a hot drink, warmed up a little and then headed back to the bus station feeling hopeful that this time, the excursion would go ahead.

At 11.30 we checked in with the staff, only to be told that the tour had been cancelled due to a serious road accident blocking the route. We were disappointed, of course, but also very aware that other people were having a much worse day than us. With the possibility of fatalities, there was absolutely no room for complaints.

Instead, we found ourselves back in “what now?” mode. It was a Sunday, many places were closed and our big activity for the day had just disappeared. Then I suggested we head back to the cable car. From a distance we could see it was now operating again, so we wrapped up (again) and set off (again) across the bridge, trying not to slip on the ice. We actually made it across in one piece, unlike a few others we saw take a tumble, and this time there was no queue at the station.

Once inside the cable car, my nerves really kicked in. I could not bring myself to look out properly and I just wanted to reach the top as quickly as possible, quietly wondering how secure it would feel up there with the wind we had felt at lower ground. In the end, it was absolutely fine. And as soon as I saw the views, all my anxiety melted away. The panorama over Tromsø, the fjord and the surrounding mountains was incredible and completely worth pushing through the fear of heights.

It was, of course, bitterly cold at the top, so after taking plenty of photos we headed into the very busy café for a hot drink and something to eat. Once we had warmed up and soaked in the views, we made our way back down the mountain and retraced our now familiar route: back across the bridge and back to the hotel for a much-needed rest.

One thing that really plays tricks on you in winter in Tromsø is how early it gets dark. Your body clock is convinced it must be late afternoon when in reality it is only early afternoon. That night, we kept things simple, found a pizza place for an easy dinner and then called it a night. Our bodies certainly felt they had earned it: we clocked up 32,966 steps that day!

Day 3: Snowmobiles, Fjords & The Best Day of the Trip

Day 3 was all about adventure. We met our group at the bus station and set off by coach, driving for around 50 minutes through the most spectacular Arctic scenery towards the ferry. The journey itself felt like part of the experience: towering snowy mountains, frozen lakes and icy fjords, with that soft winter light making everything look almost otherworldly. I honestly do not think I have ever seen anything so beautiful, and I could not put my camera down.

After a short ferry crossing, we were met by our tour guide and taken to get kitted out for our snowmobile adventure. We were given all the proper gear, from warm overalls to helmets and boots, and then a short but clear lesson on how to operate the skidoos.

I will admit, it was a little nerve-wracking at first. Rain the previous day meant much of the snow had turned to ice, and there were a few moments when I was convinced we were heading straight for a ditch. Thankfully, Carl’s driving skills were excellent and we stayed safely on track.

We made a couple of stops along the way, which gave everyone the chance to swap drivers, take photos and just stand for a moment in the silence, surrounded by endless white and rugged peaks. I was more than happy staying as the passenger, taking it all in without having to worry about steering!

On the way back, we pulled off to a tiny wooden hut that appeared in the middle of nowhere. Inside, the guides lit a fire the traditional way, carving pieces of wood and using just a penknife to get it going. We all gathered around the flames, warming up with hot chocolate. It was incredibly cosy and felt like something out of a winter film.

After our break, we continued back towards the starting point. On the return journey, we passed a woman riding a sleigh pulled by huskies, travelling alone through the darkness with nothing around for miles. It was a surreal and slightly magical sight. I have no idea where she was going, perhaps simply exercising the dogs, but it was one of those moments that really stays with you.

Back at the base, we peeled off the gear and headed to a small, rustic restaurant nearby. There we were served homemade soup and a slice of cake, which tasted even better after the cold and adrenaline of the ride. It was a lovely opportunity to chat with our fellow travellers and share stories from the day.

Eventually, it was time to head back: first to the ferry across the fjord, then onto the coach that took us back into Tromsø. We both agreed it had been the best day of the trip.

By the evening, the pavements in Tromsø had turned extremely icy, so we did not venture far. We chose the closest restaurant we could find to the hotel, enjoyed a simple, warming dinner and then called it a night, tired in the best possible way after a full Arctic adventure.

Day 4: Homeward Bound & An Unexpected Lesson

Day 4 was home time. I woke up feeling extremely disoriented, almost as if I was floating. It was a strange sensation and I really struggled my way through breakfast, not quite sure what was going on with me.

We checked out and made our way to the bus station, where we happened to bump into the same lady from London we had chatted to at the very start of the trip. It was such a nice full-circle moment. We compared notes on our time in Tromsø, swapping highlights and favourite moments from what had clearly been an amazing few days for all of us.

This time, the Airport Express bus arrived right on time and we reached the airport exactly as scheduled. I was still feeling very out of sorts and could not really put my finger on why. Boarding came around and, once again, everything ran smoothly. We left the gate on time, then were taken to a separate area for the aircraft to be de-iced, which took around ten minutes.

Once in the air, we enjoyed our last look at those beautiful Arctic views from above. Snow-covered peaks, deep blue fjords and that soft northern light: we both agreed we had never been anywhere so beautiful.

We actually landed back at Heathrow 33 minutes early, which, under normal circumstances, would have been a lovely bonus. All I wanted to do, though, was get home. By this point I felt like I had a terrible hangover, despite not having had any alcohol, and Carl was not feeling great either.

Once we were back and I had a chance to rest and do a bit of research, everything started to make sense. We realised we were most likely suffering from a form of altitude and dehydration-related sickness: we had walked over 33,000 steps in one day, taken a cable car up a very high mountain and definitely had not drunk enough water to compensate for the cold, dry air and all the activity. In hindsight, it was a valuable lesson.

For future trips, especially to cold-weather destinations like Tromsø, I will be much more conscious about hydration and pacing, even when the excitement of exploring makes it tempting to just keep going. It has certainly given me some useful advice to pass on to clients planning their own Arctic adventures.